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Buick Forum: Hey everyone, i am new to the site and to Buick! Maybe some help needed.
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  1. #21
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    Re: Hey everyone, i am new to the site and to Buick! Maybe some help needed.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ledzilla View Post
    Glad to be of some assistance, and good luck with replacing that sensor. Make sure the cooling system has the air bled out of it well after you're done replacing it. Like said before, air bubbles in the system will give the sensor false readings and the warning light will come on. Happened to me a lot until I did a little bit of a hack solution to better remove air from the system because I just hate the "burping" procedure this motor requires. It never quite worked well in my Buick for some reason.
    Just want your opinion, what is the best way to purge it. I usually just run the car with the rad cap off, that could be totally wrong lol, it worked on a 2000 Chrysler Cirrus i had. Ah, just looked, theirs a bleeder valve next to the thermostat. And another on the WP.
    Last edited by John Benjamin Lusk; March 24th, 2017 at 02:58 PM.

  2. #22
    ryenie is online now Full Member My Buick(s): 95 Monte Carlo L36
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    Re: Hey everyone, i am new to the site and to Buick! Maybe some help needed.

    There's a couple ways to bleed it, shop procedure is using a no spill funnel (if you don't use any funnel you will have a hard time pushing the air out of the bleeders), attach it to the radiator, open both bleeders, allow coolant to fill until it comes out the bleeders, it probably won't come out at both bleeders at the same time, but close them once coolant starts coming out from them. Once both bleeders are closed remove funnel, install radiator cap, fill reservoir to the full cold mark, start and run the engine until it reaches normal temp and cut it off. Allow it completely cool, remove cap if low repeat until it's full after completing the cycle (shouldn't take more than 3 cycles). Some people have had success jumping back and forth between opening bleeders while it's running (with the cap off), but this seems to be wasteful and messy with the coolant going everywhere and usually takes more than one attempt doing it this way too. You will know you have all or most of the air out when the heater gives good heat with the engine warmed up. Usually when there is an air bubble the heater doesn't produce any heat. Also the way the system is setup (allegedly) it is capable of bleeding itself once you get the majority of the air out. Hopefully the monte will haul ass, the transmission i have for it is out of a grand prix. The park avenue was starting to have transmission issues, solenoids started going, then it was having issues catching 4th gear. When i initially bought it the idea was to drive it until it quit, then pull the engine for the monte. it had 280,000+ a few more miles on it so it had a good life, and the engine still ran great, just figured while the engine is out and that many miles, before i put it in, save myself a headache and make it new again.
    Don't sweat the petty stuff, and don't pet the sweaty stuff

  3. #23
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    Re: Hey everyone, i am new to the site and to Buick! Maybe some help needed.

    Quote Originally Posted by ryenie View Post
    There's a couple ways to bleed it, shop procedure is using a no spill funnel (if you don't use any funnel you will have a hard time pushing the air out of the bleeders), attach it to the radiator, open both bleeders, allow coolant to fill until it comes out the bleeders, it probably won't come out at both bleeders at the same time, but close them once coolant starts coming out from them. Once both bleeders are closed remove funnel, install radiator cap, fill reservoir to the full cold mark, start and run the engine until it reaches normal temp and cut it off. Allow it completely cool, remove cap if low repeat until it's full after completing the cycle (shouldn't take more than 3 cycles). Some people have had success jumping back and forth between opening bleeders while it's running (with the cap off), but this seems to be wasteful and messy with the coolant going everywhere and usually takes more than one attempt doing it this way too. You will know you have all or most of the air out when the heater gives good heat with the engine warmed up. Usually when there is an air bubble the heater doesn't produce any heat. Also the way the system is setup (allegedly) it is capable of bleeding itself once you get the majority of the air out. Hopefully the monte will haul ass, the transmission i have for it is out of a grand prix. The park avenue was starting to have transmission issues, solenoids started going, then it was having issues catching 4th gear. When i initially bought it the idea was to drive it until it quit, then pull the engine for the monte. it had 280,000+ a few more miles on it so it had a good life, and the engine still ran great, just figured while the engine is out and that many miles, before i put it in, save myself a headache and make it new again.
    Alright, i will try that. Just a regular funnel? I appreciate it. That's awesome man to here you got that many miles out of it those 3800's are bulletproof. My parts came in yesterday as well as the tool that i don't see how it works just messing with it for a second, it says you don't have to take anything off to take the thermostat housing off (says it on the tool), but i cant to sh** anyway lol... Rain, and a friend has all my tools, so ill get to it eventually, also i'll have to drive it over to another friends to work on it, i have to park on an incline so its impossible to do tranny stuff on a hill lol. I'd love to know how it runs when you get it going, hell i'd love to see your car.

  4. #24
    ryenie is online now Full Member My Buick(s): 95 Monte Carlo L36
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    Re: Hey everyone, i am new to the site and to Buick! Maybe some help needed.

    The funnel has to fit snugly where it goes into the radiator, they sell a no spill funnel that has a sealed fitting and a stopper, but a funnel with a wide enough opening will work as long as you can fill the funnel close to the top with out it leaking out the top of the radiator . I've had luck using a transmission fluid funnel, might have to cut part of the tip off, but it would suffice as well. The idea is to raise the fluid level above the height of the bleeder valve. If you don't use a funnel there will still be a significant amount of air left in the system and will be much more difficult to bleed the remainder out regardless of the method you use to bleed it. I'll work on posting some pics but it's raining here in Tennessee too, and the only phone with a good camera is on charge, but i'll try to get some posted as soon as weather allows, phones on the charger.
    Last edited by ryenie; March 26th, 2017 at 03:37 PM.

  5. #25
    ryenie is online now Full Member My Buick(s): 95 Monte Carlo L36
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    Re: Hey everyone, i am new to the site and to Buick! Maybe some help needed.

    023.jpg,024.jpg,025.jpg,026.jpg027.jpg028.jpg029.jpg. It has a little bit of hail damage and every monte i get seems to come standard with a dent behind the drivers door. But this is what i got to start from. The original engine was stored for a prolonged period of time with only water in it. Leaked like a sieve. Got that straightened out and a valve seat broke free from the head and managed it's way into four other cylinders, how i don't know, but upon inspection 2 out of 3 cylinders for each head had been beat to death along with the piston heads. As far as the body is concerned i've been thinking about sending it to a collision center and having them smooth it back out and paint it black. From what i've heard in the mid 90's GM used a galvanized primer with the white paint (maybe even other colors). The paint would stick during the warranty of the car but a few years later it would start peeling off in big sheets. Only one small spot has peeled, but i've had another white lumina that was a 95 and it lost the majority of its paint before i took the motor from it and transplanted it into another car. I also noticed that my hubcaps are missing, not sure if they're just burried further in the trunk then I felt like digging, or if someone decided to liberate them from me, but i can't seem to find those.
    Last edited by ryenie; March 26th, 2017 at 07:07 PM.

  6. #26
    ledzilla is offline Full Member My Buick(s): 2001 Century Custom
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    Re: Hey everyone, i am new to the site and to Buick! Maybe some help needed.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ryenie View Post
    There's a couple ways to bleed it, shop procedure is using a no spill funnel (if you don't use any funnel you will have a hard time pushing the air out of the bleeders), attach it to the radiator, open both bleeders, allow coolant to fill until it comes out the bleeders, it probably won't come out at both bleeders at the same time, but close them once coolant starts coming out from them. Once both bleeders are closed remove funnel, install radiator cap, fill reservoir to the full cold mark, start and run the engine until it reaches normal temp and cut it off. Allow it completely cool, remove cap if low repeat until it's full after completing the cycle (shouldn't take more than 3 cycles). Some people have had success jumping back and forth between opening bleeders while it's running (with the cap off), but this seems to be wasteful and messy with the coolant going everywhere and usually takes more than one attempt doing it this way too. You will know you have all or most of the air out when the heater gives good heat with the engine warmed up. Usually when there is an air bubble the heater doesn't produce any heat. Also the way the system is setup (allegedly) it is capable of bleeding itself once you get the majority of the air out. Hopefully the monte will haul ass, the transmission i have for it is out of a grand prix. The park avenue was starting to have transmission issues, solenoids started going, then it was having issues catching 4th gear. When i initially bought it the idea was to drive it until it quit, then pull the engine for the monte. it had 280,000+ a few more miles on it so it had a good life, and the engine still ran great, just figured while the engine is out and that many miles, before i put it in, save myself a headache and make it new again.
    ^^This.

    My Buick is weird so this doesn't work well for me, so I rigged up the cooling system with an extra remote filler back by the heater core to make it easier. Works like a charm, but it shouldn't be necessary for you at all.

    But I digress... There are two bleeders. One is at a coolant pipe at the top of the engine, front left when looking at the engine from the bumper (right above the water pump). The other is somewhat low, on the thermostat housing, which can be found by following the radiator hose from the right back to the engine (again, from the perspective of looking at the engine from the bumper.). They should be two-piece, and you only need to loosen the inner piece, which uses a 7mm socket.

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