1992 lesabre little things?

[DAMEA]

soo i was given a 92 lesabre ran but rough, found code 41, it was missing interrupter magnet so i jb welded a new one in place, code went away ran better...... trying to get car fully functional for road and its still not 100% its still has a rough idle.... sometimes better than others.... and now i have a code 26 (only current code!). From what i gather code 26 is ecm quad module and could have been caused by the previously persistent code 41, so i just wanna make sure i just need to grab reman or junkyard ecm and switch my current prom chip into new ecm?!? any other trick to try and fix code 26 before i get another ecm? im in california and dont want any issues when i go to smog.... will this code cause me to fail emissions?

while im here id like to ask a few random questions to get car close to perfect if possible,

is security light an issue? what causes it?

can i replace these chrome strips/molding on bumper/trunk? where from? (pic)

drivers side windows wont roll front or back, but passenger works from all controls.... is there a fuse that would cause 1 side not to work or more likely I lost the main drivers control switch? or both motors?

will i find a new seat in better condition or is my current seat worth repairing?

can i get a new plastic strip for door? whats it called interior weather window guard plastic strip thingy? lol or should i just try a little glue and see if shell hold?

 

[DAMEA]

cleaned maf, got new pcv installed, decided to clean the icm area cause it was pretty caked with sludge.... got to the actual icm and took plug out/off and cleaned it up and this is what is there.... now i know this isnt good but im wondering if sludge and dirt was almost protecting it a bit lol now that i cleaned it i would be afraid to have car power up like this... icm getting a new icm pigtail in a few.... not sure if im gonna install it tonight or tomorrow, still wondering whats causing my code 26.... im hoping this help lol

 

[2007LucerneCXL]

Can't tell you what part is causing the code 26, but this may help on what code 26 is and it has wiring schematics for a 91 but I would assume they would be similar to the 92. If someone on the forum knows differently please confirm.

Check Engine Codes 26 and 41: I Am Getting a Code 26 and 41 for My...

I am getting a code 26 and 41 for my car. Code 26 seems to be a Quad Driver Module Error QDM A error. What are the steps to determine the repair for...

www.2carpros.com

 

[Andy91]

can i get a new plastic strip for door? whats it called interior weather window guard plastic strip thingy? lol or should i just try a little glue and see if shell hold?

GM calls them a "Door Window Inner Sealing Strip", there are some still available and on Ebay, but I think you'd just waste your money. It's made of cheap brittle plastic and constantly exposed to the sun once installed, it will likely fall apart again.

Mine all looked just like your pic. I took them out, superglued and clamped them, put them back in the car the next day. that was two years ago and they still look good.

______________________________

 

[Homer Jay]

Good catch, after you replace the harness clear the codes. Exposed wiring is obviously not good and will cause multiple driveabilty issues and trigger codes

 

[imidazol97]

I'd suggest checking the ground buss connection under the carpet next to drive side door. They
had a habit of corroding and causing various circuits to have trouble grounding.

I believe there is a ground behind the parking brake pedal unit. It's been a while since I working on my 93 or my 98--long gone, worn out, traded.

Sometimes people could hit or kick the area on the carpet and doorsill when a problem occurred and found that the impact caused the corrosion to let the ground make contact again, for a while.

Mine on 93 was HVAC unit went to default of AC compressor, defrost, and high blower speed. The engine cooline fans turned on. AND the power door locks wouldn't work. Park it and a few minutes later things were okay.

In circuit diagrams this may be called G200. The similar one on the passenger side was G201.

I have a 1993 FSM if you have specific diagram questions and can't find the diagram on the net.

 

[DAMEA]

ok so icm pig tail is on and everything is fine with that.... but i have a few more things that need discussed

Can't tell you what part is causing the code 26, but this may help on what code 26 is and it has wiring schematics for a 91 but I would assume they would be similar to the 92. If someone on the forum knows differently please confirm.

Check Engine Codes 26 and 41: I Am Getting a Code 26 and 41 for My...

I am getting a code 26 and 41 for my car. Code 26 seems to be a Quad Driver Module Error QDM A error. What are the steps to determine the repair for...

www.2carpros.com

pcm and ecm is same thing? and its located under the passenger side dash? is this it? i am trying to understand the diagram so i can test it but am a tad cloudy on what and where i am supposed to check lol



oil gauge needle was bouncing around, changed oil pressure sensor and now its pegged all the max once started, doesnt even bounce anymore! any ideas? is it the motor in the cluster?

checked all fuses under drivers side, maxi fuses on firewall, and small group on passenger side... only found 1 15amp fuse blown it was this one(misc engine).... replaced, started car, rechecked all good!




should i try or trust a junkyard ecm? or buy a new/reman from autoparts store?

trying to figure out master switch window issue, with my dmm i can see voltage fall about 1 volt(12-11v) when switch is applied in whichever direction(up/down).... so if i have power to all switches it must be window motor?

i wanna say car gets better once warm and SES never stays on, just spurts 1-3 times total usually 10 second spurts and it goes away for a minute or so before reappearing for another short 10 second spurt.... after car runs/drives for 5-10 min it never shows SES again..... also if car is warm and shut off for only a short period of time once restarted SES doent show again....car feels like a slight misfire or vacuum leak at idle when cold...... once car is warm/driven car idles fine, only code showing is 26

also when i got the car the ac compressor was horrible and had to be changed inorder to even drive it home, owner stated he had this switch hooked up for his ac.... when i was changing icm i noticed this green wire (broken) that had been piggybacked on this green wire in wire loom close to icm loom.... i found other part of green wire going into driverside firewall i reconnected it by piggybacking in it myself just with new wire, while under dash today i am wondering how or what the previous owner had done or was trying to do? does anyone know what or where this green wire does or goes? ac pressure sensor/switch? heater works fine....




security light stays on most of the time! also sometimes car wont start.... almost like the ignition is bad or the rfid or whatever its called is bad in the key? sometimes car start fine first try....other times ill cycle key almost a dozen times before it will start.... when it wont start i here a few clicks almost like relays but nothing it doesnt even attempt to start! it starts fine 90% of the time.... but a couple days ago i sat for about 10 min and a good dozen cycles before it started, almost thought i was gonna need a tow.... is it the key? or the ignition? change ignition tumbler and get new key programmed? any ideas? lol

any and all help/suggestions are all welcomed and very much appreciated!!

 

[DAMEA]

quick update..... plugged ecm back in but left on floor board and let battery sit neg off.... no code!!! drove for 10 miles shut down for 1 hr drove 10 miles back retest and no code still or SES light! should i just call it good and put ecm back in dash? could that code just have been stored? still has a slightly rough idle cold but thats fine with me for now

______________________________

 

[2007LucerneCXL]

It may be that it was a bad connection and unplug then plugging it back in cleaned the connection, the disconnect of the battery could also cleared it. It may be just driving it for awhile and see if the problem is resolved as I'm not sure if it would be so many engine starts or mileage that trip the code on that era. Best guessing so maybe someone else on the forum has better information.

 

[DAMEA]

drove it for about 50 miles this morning then took it to get smogged, passed with flying colors! took front door panel off to glue window sealing strip and check power at window motor with dmm, had power at motor, changed motor and window is fully functional again! still no code or SES light!

still have persistent security light and intermittent starting issue, not sure if i should buy new ignition lock cylinder and get new key programed or disable vats/resistor trick? should i look anywhere else?

 

[HotZ28]

Have you tried cleaning the resistor in the key, or simply using another key to see if the problem persist?

 

[DAMEA]

Have you tried cleaning the resistor in the key, or simply using another key to see if the problem persist?

cleaned key and resistor with some QD cleaner, after i cleaned it security light went off and has stayed off for a full day with multiple drive cycles on it but ignition/starting is still not consistant sometimes first try sometimes 2 or 3 tries but seems cleaning it made some difference! Car only came with 1 key so cant try that

______________________________

 

[imidazol97]

When you say the car doesn't start on the first try, but requires 2 or 3 tries..., can you describe exactly what happens when you turn the key and it doesn't want to start. Do all the warning lights on the dash come on but nothing happens with the starter cranking?

Try turning the key to ON and watch the security light. It should go out after a second or two indicating the module that reads the resistance of the chip on the key found the right resistance. Then turn the key to crank and see if the
engine starts. If you put the key in and the security light stays on, that explains why it doesn't work on the first try.
Watch as you turn the key the next times slowlly in steps allowing time for the security light to go off.

I learned as my chip system on the 98 was deteriorating due to the fine wires in the column that go to the key reader in the ignition lock broke one by one and changed the resistance that if I took time to let the system read the key before going to the next step, to crank, I got better success. My usual pattern had been turning the key quickly through the ON position and to crank.

On my 93 I believe I didn't know how the system worked and took it to the dealer for repair which included a new lock and key, but that included the wires from the lock cylinder down to the floorboard connector. That bypassed the bad wires breaking in the tilt steering column due to the flexing.

With my 98 it eventually failed and the light stayed on continually, but did not lock the system from starting. However, one day something had changed and it would not crank at all. I had been aware that the system sometimes would go into a failsafe mode. However, if the power were lost such as with a totally dead battery, the theft deterrent module wouldn't read the right resistance and wouldn't allow the start relay to work.

So I had to cut the wires and insert the resistor pack I got from Radio Shack resistors and had soldered together to approximate the resistance of the chip (and the wires going to and from it). There is a chart of the 14 resistances GM used. The resistor pack--and the reading the TDM gets has to be within 10% of the correct reading for that key IIRC.



Something that hasn't been mentioned is dipping the key in alcohol and inserting it into and out of the lock cylinder repeatedly to clean the contacts inside the touch the two sides of the chip but getting alcohol on them. You can use isopropyl, ethyl alcohol from garage and paint uses, or vodka. LOL

 

[imidazol97]

There were several videos that were good about fixing the VATS system on the leSabre and Bonneville and Oldsmobile and Chevrolet family. Some videos were poorly done and had bad information.

Finding the right wire to cut as they are up toward the steering column area was the main part.
Next is that the two small white wires inside the larger plastic housing that looked like a single wire
were difficult to solder to anything because they contain only a few fine hair like threads of copper
which broke easily.

I determined the right wire because I found where the two wires were connected at a 48 or 64 (large number)
of wires were plugged in at the firewall above driver left foot: the two fine white wires separated to separate connections in the multiconnector
and about a quarter inch of white wires showed as they left the orange or yellow tube they were in.

 

[DAMEA]

When you say the car doesn't start on the first try, but requires 2 or 3 tries..., can you describe exactly what happens when you turn the key and it doesn't want to start. Do all the warning lights on the dash come on but nothing happens with the starter cranking?

Try turning the key to ON and watch the security light. It should go out after a second or two indicating the module that reads the resistance of the chip on the key found the right resistance. Then turn the key to crank and see if the
engine starts. If you put the key in and the security light stays on, that explains why it doesn't work on the first try.
Watch as you turn the key the next times slowlly in steps allowing time for the security light to go off.

I learned as my chip system on the 98 was deteriorating due to the fine wires in the column that go to the key reader in the ignition lock broke one by one and changed the resistance that if I took time to let the system read the key before going to the next step, to crank, I got better success. My usual pattern had been turning the key quickly through the ON position and to crank.

On my 93 I believe I didn't know how the system worked and took it to the dealer for repair which included a new lock and key, but that included the wires from the lock cylinder down to the floorboard connector. That bypassed the bad wires breaking in the tilt steering column due to the flexing.

With my 98 it eventually failed and the light stayed on continually, but did not lock the system from starting. However, one day something had changed and it would not crank at all. I had been aware that the system sometimes would go into a failsafe mode. However, if the power were lost such as with a totally dead battery, the theft deterrent module wouldn't read the right resistance and wouldn't allow the start relay to work.

So I had to cut the wires and insert the resistor pack I got from Radio Shack resistors and had soldered together to approximate the resistance of the chip (and the wires going to and from it). There is a chart of the 14 resistances GM used. The resistor pack--and the reading the TDM gets has to be within 10% of the correct reading for that key IIRC.



Something that hasn't been mentioned is dipping the key in alcohol and inserting it into and out of the lock cylinder repeatedly to clean the contacts inside the touch the two sides of the chip but getting alcohol on them. You can use isopropyl, ethyl alcohol from garage and paint uses, or vodka. LOL

ok so i watched slowly and seen a few things.....

first put key in and go to on position..... security light is either solid and ready to start or blinks 3 to 5 times then goes solid...... If i crank while blinking security light nothing happens....... but if i wait the few seconds until solid security light starts every time no issues.... but im sill having the security light on dash stay on for periods of time.... it does go away completely sometimes.... and others its intermittent...... the other day it "locked" me out and wouldnt do anything no matter what!....but i had a solid security light on dash with or without key in cylinder, waited 5 min or so and it eventually went away....put key in, solid light, started just fine

 

[DAMEA]

car needs several things and i wanna ask if i should be able to do them myself and how long it should take a novice or how much i should be roughly looking to pay someone to do it based in California? Im mechanically inclined but big jobs kinda scare me/time and effort:

cv axles
tie rods inner and outer
wheel bearings
swaybar endlinks
(car leaks oil)
valve cover gaskets
intake gaskets

wheel bearings, endlinks and outer tie rods dont scare me at all, the axles and inner tie rods make me have reservations, and the gaskets scare me to all hell lol

______________________________

 

[HotZ28]

How to bypass the VATS system in a late model GM vehicle

 

[DAMEA]

bought an oil pressure tester and pulled the new sensor out..... the oil needle reads maxed out when running, but when key is in on position and car off needle acts normal at 0.... when key goes to off from on position it starts to slowly fall towards the max position.... oil pressure read 60 psi at idle cold and warm..... went to 70-72 psi when rev'd up to 2500-3000 rpm.... Im hoping this is good/normal psi? I am including video links

 

[DAMEA]

any advice tricks or tips before i jump in greatly appreciated!!

 

[2007LucerneCXL]

Take pictures before and during, make sure you have a service manual for removal and repair specifications, hopefully not have extra parts and trying to figure out why, good luck on the repairs.