1993 park ave ultra supercharger issue

BuickGirlFromMars

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Yeah I’m not seeing your issue here 41D09A70-28C5-4D28-9015-5A3821EEF3BA.gif
Is this your oe route?

what I’m saying is you are way better off with a new harness an peeling off barely cured if cured fully vinyl tape and conduit and routing in a more series ii way If you want to skip that mess just verify it stays secured out of the way. Even if you use your other wiring to extend the new harness and make it like your old one you’d be a hell of a lot further ahead than trying to use your oe one

the pcm runs its ground to the icm and if your car has a bunch of codes for random things, I’d bet your harnsss broke that g111 in the diagram and the pcm no longer had a ground reference
 

Buickguy123

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Do you see the differences in wire lenghts? That big BLACK connector on the new Dorman part will not reach the connector back by the alternator. At least in the pictures. Anyway pictures can be wrong. I hope you are right BGFM. If mine had a ground wire it should be broke off somewhere in there. I suspect a 91 to 93 Pontiac Bonneville could have the same size.
 

Buickguy123

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Yeah I’m not seeing your issue here View attachment 30735
Is this your oe route?

what I’m saying is you are way better off with a new harness an peeling off barely cured if cured fully vinyl tape and conduit and routing in a more series ii way If you want to skip that mess just verify it stays secured out of the way. Even if you use your other wiring to extend the new harness and make it like your old one you’d be a hell of a lot further ahead than trying to use your oe one

the pcm runs its ground to the icm and if your car has a bunch of codes for random things, I’d bet your harnsss broke that g111 in the diagram and the pcm no longer had a ground reference
The C110 part with this new Dorman harness may not be long enough? But yes buying the new one and splicing it adding wire if need be would be better. Correct. The old one is toast for sure.
 

BuickGirlFromMars

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I realize th s length difference I’m saying you can easily work around that
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Buickguy123

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I’m not sure about where the ps sits in your car but you are saying the connector is stuck in the sensor? It should come out like any other. It’s only two wires at the cam sensor I believe maybe 3. You can remove the sensor and fish it out then remove the connector with more room. The sensor has one bolt and it just sticks in the timing cover

should be be obstructed but don’t quote me. If you do that, then you’ll be able to do repairs. If you want to test a wire that you are unsure of get some alligator clips for multimeter and test the wire at the earliest point and the end or connector safely for continuity and move the wire while checking. If it’s not a lot of drop or resistance it’s probably good, I’d just clean the wire and fix any broken insulation with some liquid electrical tape remember you can also cut out a section of wire and add in just be conservative because too much of that will add bulk

make sure to use new conduit and a good idea for any wire harness is TESSA tape wire harness cloth tape. That stuff is gold
Well, I cleaned the wires and pulled the weak plastic off the wires. Used WD 40 Electrical cleaner to clean the copper. Applied that narly liquid tape to the bare copper wires. I think I need to apply it again or apply Tessa tape to each wire or that would add too much bulk? I dunno?
 

BuickGirlFromMars

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I
Well, I cleaned the wires and pulled the weak plastic off the wires. Used WD 40 Electrical cleaner to clean the copper. Applied that narly liquid tape to the bare copper wires. I think I need to apply it again or apply Tessa tape to each wire or that would add too much bulk? I dunno?
t may add too much bulk. There is not a huge amount of room to work with beyond the oringinsl corrugated plus some vinyl
 

Buickguy123

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I

t may add too much bulk. There is not a huge amount of room to work with beyond the oringinsl corrugated plus some vinyl
The copper looks good! Just want to make sure the wires do not touch. There are wires in the harness connected together into one. A cloth insulation tape was around that... no ground wire to attach like in that Dorman replacement. Perhaps that is the ground?
 

BuickGirlFromMars

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The copper looks good! Just want to make sure the wires do not touch. There are wires in the harness connected together into one. A cloth insulation tape was around that... no ground wire to attach like in that Dorman replacement. Perhaps that is the ground?
I am pretty sure it broke off or it’s on the back of the engine. Either way you won’t hurt it by grounding their since that will provide the best EMI protection
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HotZ28

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There was not a ground wire in the harness to the ICM in 1993. The ICM got it's ground from the mount and the ground wire underneath. Later models had the ICM ground in the harness.
 

Buickguy123

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There are two bearings in the nose drive (snout) and both are lubricated by the S/C oil in the snout. There is also an oil seal in the front of the snout, behind the drive pulley to prevent oil leaking from the inside out and to prevent any contaminates/lubricants entering from the outside. If the seal is not leaking oil from the inside, it is highly unlikely that any type of lubricant sprayed on the belt/pulley could find it's way to the first snout bearing. http://www.3800supercharger.net/nosedrive.html
SC oil I have found out is leaking somewhere and hence the SC oil level has been low. I am trying to figure out where? The clowns who worked on it have me not too happy to say the least.
 

Buickguy123

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There was not a ground wire in the harness to the ICM in 1993. The ICM got it's ground from the mount and the ground wire underneath. Later models had the ICM ground in the harness.
Kind of what I was thinking when I found no broken wires.
 

Buickguy123

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Kind of what I was thinking when I found no broken wires.
I have decided to just repair the harness to the best of my ability. I peeled off all the old plastic in places on the wires, cleaned the copper and used liquid tape on it. Tessa 36 tape is coming via Amazon tursday to rewrap and maybe more split loom from HFT. My PS pump leaks, grease dirty all over, and I attempted to remove it today but gave up. Car outside unstable ground. Put the two bolts back in through the pulley holes. Put the 10 SC bolts back. They used RTV on the SC cover I cannot break the seal. Wanted to find the SC oil leak if any? So I need to rewrap the harness with Tesa tape put it back in connect to CPS Cam Sensor ICM..put coolant tubes hoses back refill coolant. There was a lot of rust on the rotor when I took the wheel off?? Should be shiney? They are not that old? Did those mechanics strip my car? He replaced a newer silicone wire set with a basic Autozone set. Claimed he had to do it? Really? LOL I will start it up and see what happens? Hopefully it runs well enough for someone with a big garage tools and know how to keep it going because I think it has life left? I do not! LOL Car to be sold for $1000 or so on FB! I am too old for this crap? Yes the black hole. 2021 Toyota Corolla VIN starting with J here I come? LOL Overall my Buicks have been decent vehicles mind you.
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Mad_Coachman

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Rusty rotors? That's what happens when they sit for a while....even a couple of days. They'll be shiny after a few stops.
 

BuickGirlFromMars

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Rusty rotors? That's what happens when they sit for a while....even a couple of days. They'll be shiny after a few stops.
Minutes in the right humidity or wetness of rotors
I can do a brake stop to clear the them, bring it to my hose, give it 20 min, hose a little water on them, come back in 5 and they will have flash rust starting. Same situation for humid af days but no hose
 

Buickguy123

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Minutes in the right humidity or wetness of rotors
I can do a brake stop to clear the them, bring it to my hose, give it 20 min, hose a little water on them, come back in 5 and they will have flash rust starting. Same situation for humid af days but no hose
The brakes are working and the rotors on my daughter's 2015 Civic are the same way. I need to find the knock sensor or sensors plural now since code 43 is being thrown. This car is impossible now.
 

Tri-shield Fanatic

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Greetings-
If you do rebuild the puffer, it is a common Eaton air squisher found in several vehicles and from personal experience I have had good luck with the ceramic ball bearings. I also have been using Amsoil successfully instead of ordering the AC Delco from a dealer. Here's the link for those parts: Rolling Performance Home

-Cheers
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