2005 Rendezvous

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2005 Buick Rendezous
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I replaced all 3 fuel lines do to rust and leaks, where they come down on the fire wall in front of the fuel filter. Now I have a starting problem will not start at all. The engine will run briefly with starting fluid. In one of the lines is a valve looks like a bleeder valve. Do I have to bleed the lines ? How is it done
Thanks
 
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2005 Buick Rendezous
Thread starter #3
I think its the pressure relief line with the valve. it looks like a tire valve stem has a green 1/2" cap on it.
I just took the line apart and fund fuel pressure is all the way to the top. I ran the fuel pump last night the pressure remained over night. That's with I think its the regulator. The filter is fine no clog.
Thanks
 
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Thread starter #4
This valve I mentioned could be the purge valve. I don't see a valve like it on the parts description. I entered the vin and came up with a 3 line system. There was no explanation about my problem
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MelsRegal

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#6
so you dont mean the schrader valve on the fuel rail going to the fuel pressure regulator?
your first post states the firewall which is in the front of the car, are you taking about the rear of the car?
 
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2005 Buick Rendezous
Thread starter #7
so you dont mean the schrader valve on the fuel rail going to the fuel pressure regulator?
your first post states the firewall which is in the front of the car, are you taking about the rear of the car?
I meant the front not by the fuel pump. I have fuel all the way up to the injection unit or valves in this case. Apparently there must be a valve where the fuel line hooks up that prevents the fuel to go in the fuel rails
 

MelsRegal

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#8
you did a fuel pressure test at the fuel rail, correct? So how can you say there is no fuel in the fuel rail? May be it's time to post a picture of exactly what you replaced and where you are hooking up the fuel pressure tester.
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Mel No I have not checked the fuel pressure yet. The fuel pump was on its way out . I ordered a pump it wont be in my hands till Friday . I dred the job but have to do it.
 

ls973800

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Mel No I have not checked the fuel pressure yet. The fuel pump was on its way out . I ordered a pump it wont be in my hands till Friday . I dred the job but have to do it.
About 6 weeks ago I had to replace the fuel tank on my son's 2004 Rendezvous due to a leak on the tank. Removing the tank really wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be. I removed the fuel pump and transferred it over to the new (salvage yard) tank. Now everything had worked fine before I did the swap. Afterwards, his gas gauge would fluctuate between empty and full and his check engine light came on.

Checking the engine light with my scanner, I found three codes stored. I think they were for the Evap system, and two other emission faults. I was about ready to remove the tank again to start checking for pinched hoses, broken connectors, etc when I decided to check the electrical connection first that has to be undone to remove the tank.

His car has 250000 miles on it and the plug had never been undone until I replaced the tank. My wife had purchased the car new so I know it had never been undone. All those years and miles and the connectors never caused a problem. When I looked closer at it before removing the tank again, I found a lot of corrosion on the terminals and plugs. It had only been left unplugged for less than two days so perhaps it was just making enough connection to not be a problem before I disconnected it.

I cleaned up the terminals and plug with a small file and emery cloth, reconnected everything, and the codes went away and the fuel gauge registered properly! Thank goodness I had decided to check that connector before taking the tank back down, otherwise I might still be chasing those codes and the fuel gauge false readings.

I know the fuel pump also gets power through one of those two connectors, so you might want to look at those also. Very easy to get to and unplug. They are under the car on the driver's side near the rear door area between the fuel tank and the body frame.
 
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I replaced all 3 fuel lines du to rust that's all I did. I disconnected 2 electrical plugs where the fuel lines hookup by the injection unit( the plugs looked clean but I will take them back out and spray them with contact cleaner) to gain extra room to work. My code scanner showed no codes. My problem is I could not get fuel to the fuel rail of the injectors. I am to get a new fuel pump tomorrow. I will see what that will bring hope my problem is solved. Who ever designed the location of the fuel rail Schroder valve needs to be made to work on one of the units, talk about a chore to get to it. My tank is 1/2 full I will drain the fuel out of the filler pipe. I am doing this on the ground I have no hoist, I have the vehicle on jack stands about 12" high. How did you pick up or balane the tank while you worked on it? I am thinking of using my floor jack with a board against the tank
Thanks for your input
 
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ls973800

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Yes, I put a board on my floor jack and used that to help balance it. I still had to hold onto the tank as I lowered it because the jack wasn't exactly centered on the tank.

The used tank I got from the salvage yard had water/fuel in it, and I thought I could drain it out of the fill tube nipple that is a part of the tank once I removed the filler tube. I couldn't get it to flow out of the tank so I think maybe there is some type of back flow flap that prevents the fuel from draining out?

I ended up standing the used tank on end and reaching in to soak up the fluid with rags. I had run the old tank down pretty low on fuel and didn't have to worry about the weight of the tank with a little fuel in it. With you car not running you may have to lower the tank with what is in there. I was able to transfer the fuel from the old tank by drilling a hole in the bottom and draining it into a container to pour into the used tank. The old tank was shoot because of a leak so drilling a hole didn't cause a problem.

You will see the two electrical connetors to disconnect by the tank when you are ready to take it down. I had also done mine with the car about 12 inches off the ground using jack stands and wheel ramps in my garage.
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Yes, I put a board on my floor jack and used that to help balance it. I still had to hold onto the tank as I lowered it because the jack wasn't exactly centered on the tank.

The used tank I got from the salvage yard had water/fuel in it, and I thought I could drain it out of the fill tube nipple that is a part of the tank once I removed the filler tube. I couldn't get it to flow out of the tank so I think maybe there is some type of back flow flap that prevents the fuel from draining out?

I ended up standing the used tank on end and reaching in to soak up the fluid with rags. I had run the old tank down pretty low on fuel and didn't have to worry about the weight of the tank with a little fuel in it. With you car not running you may have to lower the tank with what is in there. I was able to transfer the fuel from the old tank by drilling a hole in the bottom and draining it into a container to pour into the used tank. The old tank was shoot because of a leak so drilling a hole didn't cause a problem.

You will see the two electrical connetors to disconnect by the tank when you are ready to take it down. I had also done mine with the car about 12 inches off the ground using jack stands and wheel ramps in my garage.
Tomorrow I will start on the tank. I hope I don't have to talk German to it
Thanks
 
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Thread starter #15
Well I have the new pump in, new filter and the tank back in place. Now I still cant start. Tried to take the fuel pressure but cant get the gage on the Schroder valve no room to hook the gage up. Is there a extension. There is a fuel pressure valve in the front fuel rail it has a vacuum line hook to it could that be the problem . I can take the fuel line apart I put a connector in the engine compartment I have fuel all the way to there. Any ideas any one
Thanks
 

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