2009 LaCrosse - Front Passenger ABS wiring harness replacement help

NittanyDoug

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Has anyone done the abs wiring harness repair? I've had the intermittent abs/trac/stability light issue and now it's on full time. The code is for the front passenger side. I'm picking up a new harness and wheel bearing. I'll check if it's just the bearing/sensor first but knowing my luck it's the wiring harness. I know it needs to be soldered in upstream of the sensor, but is there a logical place?

I had the code read at advance auto parts and figured, ok he read the code I'll get the parts there. He sells me a connector and sensor. I was thinking that wasn't right. So I did some checking last night and sure enough, it takes the entire wheel bearing to be replaced.

Most of my tools are packed away in storage and I'll be borrowing my in-laws garage to work on it so I need to be quick about my repair. Add to it that I might have to drive to Buffalo from Detroit on Monday.

I've looked at the service manual but I couldn't find anything in there about the wiring harness.

Thanks for any help in advance. Oh, 2009 Buick LaCrosse CXL with about 65,000 miles.
 

MelsRegal

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Not sure what you mean by a logical place? You have to repair the break in the harness, if it exists, at what ever location it occurs.
 

NittanyDoug

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The replacement harness looks fairly long with two ends you have to solder to the existing harness. That's what I'm talking about. From what I've read, you'd be hard pressed to find the actual break unless there is obvious damage.
 

douger

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GM offers a replacement front sensor ABS harness for your vehicle. Not knowing your model, I can't give you the part number, but generically speaking, the part number is 10340314 for at least the left side, often it's called out for both sides.

Yes, this harness needs to be spliced into the larger harness. GM supplies butt splices for the job. Unless you have the proper crimper... that involves a ratcheting mechanism... I strongly recommend soldering. In fact, I recommend soldering and heat shrink period. You stand less chance of breaking wires and introducing corrosion into the joint.

Typically, the failure is in the connector itself. The drill is to match the vehicle's connector with the replacement, run the replacement up the vehicle's harness, then cut and splice there. If you can get some di-electric compound, put that on the connector before plugging it back into the hub. It'll help keep moisture out and corrosion down.
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Knuckle Dragger

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The sensor harness is going to have twisted wires encased in a shield. The end will have a section of about an inch. That's where you need to splice it so follow it back the same length as the replacement harness. Sometimes it's a PITA to get in there and solder the wires but remember you're dealing with a very low voltage so any resistance is an issue. Take the time and solder it. MAke sure you reuse the retainers to keep the harness from being damaged.

It's not really necessary to replace both the hub and the harness. Generally speaking you should visually check the side giving you the fault code. Lots of times the retainer for the connector breaks, the connector contacts the CV joint and the short harness on the hub/sensor rubs through and you get the fault. This will be easily visible and set a hard code. When the harness fails (with out obvious damage) it generally will show MPH with the vehicle stopped and the wheels turned left or right. You'll need a good scan tool to see this. Most of the cheaper tools don't show ABS data.
 

NittanyDoug

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Thanks for the info. I should have all of the parts for this today so I can work in it on Sunday and hopefully diagnose it. Unfortunately I have another thread or two to start....
 

NittanyDoug

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Just a quick follow up and connection/ending with my other thread...

Well like in my other thread...I found the problem. A squirrel, rat, chipmunk or other nefarious rodent chewed through 7 wires in that harness. It wasn't a terrible fix, just time consuming after I found the cut wires. I have a feeling he sat on that aluminum cross member and happily chewed his way into my misery. I cleaned it all up, soldered and shrink tubed all connections. I also added a couple of inches just to make it easier for soldering when it was just on ramps. I added more wire covering too. As soon as I done I cleared the codes and fired it up. Everything was perfect. I cycled things a few times and checked pending codes and nothing. It's all clear! All told it was the wheel speed sensor wires, a/c compressor clutch wires, knock sensor wire and oil level wires.
 
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