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2011 Buick Regal 2.0L Turbo HELP ME! P340, P341, P1101 codes LIVE DATA INFO posted

jgarland0641

New member
1
0
1
Buick Ownership
2011 buick regal 2.0 turbo
Okay backstory, a few months back i had just hit 75,000 miles and decided it was a nice day outside and wanted to change my spark plugs (no the car didn't show any signs of needing this done i just did it) After having a pain in the ass of a time getting the ignition coil packs off and unclipped i replaced the plugs (didn't gap them or anything just tossed them in. Upon starting the car seemed fine, the next day I'm on my way home from work and car starts running awful, get home turn off car and when i went to leave next time car went into a safe mode type thing where it wouldn't shift up saying shift denied and couldn't go faster than 25mph without getting up in the 6-7000s RPMs. Took to shop, they said bad ignition coil as well as not gapping spark plugs. $340 later I'm leaving the shop get a mile down road and problem comes right back on. Shop says they can fix the rest of ignition coils and whatever for another $475 so i took matters into my own hand. Bought a scan tool, bought all 4 brand new ignition coils as well as new plugs did it all at same time (2 times) same problem. Scan it and find p340/341 code so i replaced cam shaft position sensor which did nothing. More testing more research i find that could be intake/exhaust solenoids could be the culprit. Change both of those, and problem still there. Im to the point where auto zone type shops say something basic about it or say did ya check this out and i go into so much detail of what i did already and they respond with wow i didn't even think of that. Before spending another large sum at a shop I've came here as a final hope of finding my problem.

Symptoms:
-Car feels like there is absolutely no power at any range of rpm or speed.
-I put the gas to the floor and there is nothing there it hesitates and accelerates but at speed of a snail.
-Gas mileage feels to be awful now

OBD scanner LIVE DATE RESULTS: AT IDLE(750-850RPM)
DTC_CNT2: 2
FUELSYS1: CL
FUELSYS2:--
LOAD_PCT: 25-26%
SHRTFT1 %: -5 to +4
LONGFT1 %: +8.6 steady
FRP (kPa): 270-310
MAP (kPa): 32-35.0
SPARKADV (degrees): 8.0-14.0
MAF (g/s): 3.10
TP (%): 20.8
O2B1S1 (V): .015 TO .845
SHRTTFTB1S1 (%): -5 TO +5
O2B1S2 (V): .7
SHRTFTB1S2 (%): 99.2
EVAP (%): 17.6

FREEZE FRAME DATA: P340
FUELSYS1: --
FUELSYS2: --
LOAD %: 70.2
SHRTFT1 %: 0.0
SHRTFT2 %: 5.5
FRP: 441
MAP: 92.0
RPM: 645
SPARKADV °: 5.0
IAT °C: 31
MAF (G/S): 3.57
TP %: 36.1

Any and all help is appreciated let me know if anyone needs more data posted! THANKS in advance!!
 

Walt G

Full Member
815
39
28
25 miles SW of Chicago
Buick Ownership
'12 Regal GS
The P0340 and P0341 faults are electrical circuit faults with the camshaft position sensor. Basically, these faults set if the engine ECU is pretty darn sure the engine is turning, but it's not seeing shit from the camshaft position sensor. Your freeze frame shows that this set at 645 rpm, so pretty much right when you cranked, meaning the engine ECU never saw any signals from the camshaft position sensor. 4 seconds since start of cranking without seeing a pulse from the camshaft position sensor is one way this fault sets.

You are running on the crankshaft signal only, which means a limp-home state.

The problematic solenoids that control the camshaft position can cause a lot of bad things, but not these faults.

You were smart to go after the camshaft position sensor, but with that not solving the problem I see only a few likely possibilities, in order of my guess at likelihood:

1. the wiring between the engine ECU and the camshaft position sensor is messed up (open circuit or short circuit on any of the three wires: 5v, ground and signal)
2. your replacement camshaft position sensor is also bad
3. the same 5 volt reference that feeds the camshaft position sensor also feeds 'something else' and that thing is messed up (shorted to ground)... although I'd expect another fault or faults if that were the case.
4. the same signal ground used for the camshaft position sensor also grounds something else, and that thing is screwed up, putting voltage onto the ground.
5. engine ECU took a crap (failed input circuitry for this sensor... these types of failures are VERY rare)

I'd start by checking for voltage at the camshaft position sensor connector with the key on. Next would be to check that you've got a good ground on the signal ground pin... that ground probably goes back to the ECU. Next would be to check for continuity between the camshaft position sensor signal wire and the corresponding pin on the engine ECU. I don't have my service manuals with me so I'm not sure what pin these would be, but if I remember when I get home I'll take a look at post it.

But the sensor should have three pins... one should be 5V, one is a 'signal ground', and one is the pulse output... four pulses per camshaft revolution (two pulses per crankshaft revolution).

Good luck, and let us know what it turns out to be.
 

Walt G

Full Member
815
39
28
25 miles SW of Chicago
Buick Ownership
'12 Regal GS
One thing I neglected to mention above... any chance you replaced the exhaust camshaft position sensor instead of the intake camshaft position sensor???

Assuming you replaced the correct one, here is the wire and pin information for troubleshooting that sensor:

The 5V ref comes from ECU pin 34 on the X3 connector... a grey wire with a blue stripe.
The signal ground comes from the ECU pin 53, also connector X3, black wire with a green stripe.
The signal (pulse) goes to the ECU pin 33 on X3 via a yellow wire with a violet stripe.
 

Jlm85

Buick Newbie
31
8
8
Michigan
Buick Ownership
2012 Buick Regal GS
I'm having similar problems. It's all codes with circuit. O2 circuit, evap circuit and wastegate solenoid circuit. I came to the conclusion it's something that joins all these together. Like the ecu is failing. I.e. I have no fn idea.
______________________________
 

Dewayne5

New member
25
1
3
Buick Ownership
Buck Regal CXL 6MT Active
I had the same issue. No power no matter how much you smash the gas as if your turbo is failing. But you can pretty much tell its not by the way the power is kind of intermittent. And it seemed to respond better to somewhat softer throttle blips. Replace my crankshaft position sensor and all of my issues disappeared without having to chase coil packs and compression test and iridium spark plugs. 25 dollars at autozone one screw replacement.
 

fastNYsix

New member
28
9
3
Buick Ownership
1985 Regal Limited 6.0, 1987 GN, 2011 Regal T
I had those codes after timing chain replacement. I verified timing didn't jump. then I changed both of the solenoids and codes cleared for a few days, then came back. I replaced both cam sensors and codes haven't came back. I used gm sensors, they're inexpensive.
 
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