94 Roadmaster heater core replacement

bukbuk123

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How difficult is it to replace the heater core on a 94 Estate Wagon?
Auto temp control...thanks
 

silverfox103

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Actually not that bad of a job. I have done it twice.

A few tips:

1. Make sure it is the heater core! You will be able to smell it.

2. remove the passenger seat and cover floor with cardboard.

3. remove glove box

4. If it is the original heater core, it could be hard to remove the heater hoses where it connects to the core. Kind of hard to get to also. I learned by experience. Take a hacksaw blade and cut the heater core outlets on the firewall.

5. I believe there are 7, 7mm screw to remove to drop the cover of the heater core. The back two will take a little time.

6. Drop the cover down, install new. New hoses and your in business. Bleed cooling system. Done.

Tom C.
 

paart

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Silverfox:

You posted the "second time". Care to elaborate" :->. What I have in mind is suggestions for a brand. They seem to vary widely in price from about $30 to over $175 (Delco, of course). I ordered a Delphi from Rock Auto, for about $55, but I sent it back, as I'm pretty sure it wouldn't have fit. The tubes came straight out the end, rather than having a sharp bend that showed in all other pictures.
 

bukbuk123

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Thanks...just bought this car and it had been sitting in a lady's garage about 2 years...could smell antifreeze when I turned on the a/c and the water pump was leaking...after I replaced the water pump it started dripping coolant off the passenger side frame rail from where I would think the A/C condensation line would be.
 

CORVAIRWILD

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I usually bend some long nose pliers to reach hard to get to clamps and such. Since we'll be flying to the car in Florida, I would like to send the pliers ahead, and wonder if I can modify the bend if necessary? Does someone have an image of what I'll be reaching for to change the core?

I will also send a saw blade (handle) wrapped in electric tape, but are the factory hoses saveable? Are they molded? Maybe I should order some just in case
 

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HotZ28

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1996 Roadmaster Limited Collectors Edition 58k - 1996 PAU 2019 Regal GS
 
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HotZ28

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PM sent through the wagon site.

Tom

IMHO, it would help if we could keep all communication on this subject on this thread visible here, so others can enjoy & learn from the experience.
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silverfox103

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IMHO, it would help if we could keep all communication on this subject on this thread visible here, so others can enjoy & learn from the experience.

Point Taken!!


Hey Wild

Saw your heater core posting on the Roadmaster forum. I have done several and they can be ball busters. Where the hoses connects to the core at the firewall, can be very hard to disconnect. And they are extremely hard to get at. The first time I did the job, I probably spent the best part of two hours trying to disconnect the hose. The second time I did the job, 5 minutes. I took a hack saw blade and cut the pipes of the heater core, coming through the firewall. They're junk anyways, make the job easy. Don't cut the heater hose.

Also, when you do the job, remove the passenger seat...6 nuts and place cardboard on the floor.

If I were you, I'd consider this: drive it home the way it is, don't mess with it there. Fix it at home. It's not like it is pouring out fluid, it is a very very slow drip. People drive for months and years with it like that before they figure the problem out.

Tom
 
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silverfox103

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Hi Tom, the seller disconnected the core, so I will ask him how much it leaked. I'm on vacation, so I may have the entire day to RR the core as Mrs will be visiting w family. Can I get a pix of how buried the heater hoses are? I've noticed that GM has been lowering the hoses, same on my Suburban. I understand the cut method. Mrs is always cold, so she'd really like the heater to work, and happy wife...

I'm going to get the Advance core as it's $53 - $25 online discount and 15% too, so same price as the Mexico junk from Rock Auto. I'll also change the oil and filter and tranny oil and filter. I'm a firm believer in fresh oil being your best friend.

I got pix of the interior and it's leather and looks better than I expected! Regards Andrew

Well if it's disconnected that's one of the hardest things. Hopefully he didn't cut the hose. You shouldn't have any problem reconnecting, buy two new clamps. The factory ones that were on there were the spring type.

1. Pull the seat out.

2. cover floor with cardboard, studs hurt.

3. I believe there are 5 screws holding the heater cover on. I believe they are 7mm. One is a little tough to get at in the back.

4. I may have taken the glove box out.

5. You'll need a light and a 1/4 inch socket set

Now that the hoses are off, it should be a fairly easy job.....2 hours.

Good Luck

Tom
 

G-522313

That is easy: The original heater core lasted for 214K. The replacement, a genuine made in Mexico NAPA lasted 20K. Thus the second time, local parts store (generic), and I sold the wagon.

Tom C.
I replaced heater core I don't have the cover back on yet just testing but I have no air flow to the vents now any ideas
 

SKV

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If the fan is not working then there is a relay right of the heater core cover; it has two harnesses, one of them is blue. Contacts corrode and if you pushed it inadvertently or took off the harness, you may have caused damage. It happened to me; ended up buying a new part on Rockauto.
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