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A/C Evacuation & Recharge - 2001 LeSabre - Doing this myself - Questions

JGBuick

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I thought I’d open a new thread dealing with “Evacuating & refilling the A/C system”.

My previous thread: A/C Compressor - 2001 - Small leak on ground- Questions for all you A/C experts.

Reason for asking about this – Good mechanics and A/C technicians are hard to find.

A few things to know prior to diving into this repair… I have decided to evacuate and refill my A/C system myself. After a bad experience (See other thread linked) I have decided to devote some time to doing this myself.

Note… I FULLY understand the complexity of the A/C system and based upon my mechanical experience, I really think I can do this. The “ONLY” reason I allowed another shop to replace my OEM compressor was “time involved, other obligations and believing it was just the compressor…” The results from the compressor (only) are worse than before it was replaced.

Tools - Gauges, Scale, Vacuum pump. (I have all of these.)

I have purchased these new parts:

-Condenser

-Orifice Tube

-Accumulator/Drier

Here’s what I would like to know:

  • Adding the correct amount of refrigerant (R-134a)
  • Ounces-to-pounds conversion and volume?? (2001 LeSabre calls for 2.0lbs)
  • Adding PAG Oil. What type? How much? Or… None?
I am also planning on the local shop doing the evacuation to remove the refrigerant.

From there… remove the parts (Except compressor and evaporator) and flushing the lines with a flush to remove debris.

This is a work in progress and it’s not happening today or this week. I just want to get a game-plan together. I’ve researched the procedure but don’t want to overcharge the system. (Hence the questions on how to use the 12oz cans of R-134a. (Straight refrigerant)

Thank you ahead of time!







2001 Buick R-134a specs_2.jpg 2001 Buick R-134a specs_3.jpg AC_Accumulator.png AC_Pressure readings.png AC_Seal Kit.png Buick Condenser.png Orifice Tube.png
 

MelsRegal

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Based on your numbers you need 2 1/2+ cans to achieve 2 lbs. Do you have a gauge set?
 
Last edited:

JGBuick

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Based on your numbers you need 2 1/2 cans to achieve 2 lbs. Do you have a gauge set?
Yes, I have a gauge set. (Been a few years since I've used it. Going over the purging/vacuum procedures etc.)

I'm trying to figure out how a 12oz can equates into "LBS"... I have a scale also and that seems to be the preferred method.

Are you saying 30 oz = 2lbs?
 

BuickGirlFromMars

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Yes, I have a gauge set. (Been a few years since I've used it. Going over the purging/vacuum procedures etc.)

I'm trying to figure out how a 12oz can equates into "LBS"... I have a scale also and that seems to be the preferred method.

Are you saying 30 oz = 2lbs?
a scale is the best way, I used postage scale. with the can setting on it attached to hose, get a number, then insert the necessary ounces to get that much of a drop on the scale reading(once on the last can)

Also, you should replace your shraeder valves since you will be working on empty system. make sure port caps have good o rings
 

Ultra Ego

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2003 Park Avenue Ultra, 2003 LeSabre Limited; Previous: 2003 LeSabre Custom; 1998 Park Avenue
I thought I’d open a new thread dealing with “Evacuating & refilling the A/C system”.

My previous thread: A/C Compressor - 2001 - Small leak on ground- Questions for all you A/C experts.

Reason for asking about this – Good mechanics and A/C technicians are hard to find.

A few things to know prior to diving into this repair… I have decided to evacuate and refill my A/C system myself. After a bad experience (See other thread linked) I have decided to devote some time to doing this myself.

Note… I FULLY understand the complexity of the A/C system and based upon my mechanical experience, I really think I can do this. The “ONLY” reason I allowed another shop to replace my OEM compressor was “time involved, other obligations and believing it was just the compressor…” The results from the compressor (only) are worse than before it was replaced.

Tools - Gauges, Scale, Vacuum pump. (I have all of these.)

I have purchased these new parts:

-Condenser

-Orifice Tube

-Accumulator/Drier

Here’s what I would like to know:

  • Adding the correct amount of refrigerant (R-134a)
  • Ounces-to-pounds conversion and volume?? (2001 LeSabre calls for 2.0lbs)
  • Adding PAG Oil. What type? How much? Or… None?
I am also planning on the local shop doing the evacuation to remove the refrigerant.

From there… remove the parts (Except compressor and evaporator) and flushing the lines with a flush to remove debris.

This is a work in progress and it’s not happening today or this week. I just want to get a game-plan together. I’ve researched the procedure but don’t want to overcharge the system. (Hence the questions on how to use the 12oz cans of R-134a. (Straight refrigerant)

Following. I’ll be doing the exact same project in a few weeks.
 

JGBuick

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2001 LeSabre Touring Edition
16oz= 1lb
12oz+12oz+8oz=2lbs.
Thus roughly 2.5+ cans.
Thanks! Makes sense. Another question...

Some mechanics are saying to watch the gauges and when you have "Just enough"... Stop. (Based on pressures in the 40's)

Thoughts? From what I can tell.... the system is geared to hold 2.0lbs.... (And that is what I planned on doing...)
 

JGBuick

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2001 LeSabre Touring Edition
a scale is the best way, I used postage scale. with the can setting on it attached to hose, get a number, then insert the necessary ounces to get that much of a drop on the scale reading(once on the last can)

Also, you should replace your shraeder valves since you will be working on empty system. make sure port caps have good o rings
Thanks! Good idea!
______________________________
 

JGBuick

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2001 LeSabre Touring Edition
Following. I’ll be doing the exact same project in a few weeks.
Please chime-in when you get it going! I really feel this can be done well if you have the right tools and are understanding the procedures.

I'm not starting this for a few weeks also... I think it's important to get everything aligned and situated etc.
 

JGBuick

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PAG Oil?? Sooo...

One opinion states: "If you're changing-out parts, these contain oil and you should "add" what you have taken away..."

Another says: "If your compressor came pre-filled... or you are not changing the compressor... No need to add oil."

Thoughts?
 

Ultra Ego

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2003 Park Avenue Ultra, 2003 LeSabre Limited; Previous: 2003 LeSabre Custom; 1998 Park Avenue
Mine showed up empty, but with a bottle of oil to pour in before installation.
 

JGBuick

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Mine showed up empty, but with a bottle of oil to pour in before installation.
Understand. Mine was installed by another shop (Compressor) and I am assuming they added it or it came that way.
______________________________
 

ulycyc

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1987 Turbo Buick, 2001 Park Ave Ultra
Don't assume anything if you are correcting errors of the past. Also don't run flush through a new compressor. Pull the compressor and drain out all the oil. You can flush the rest of the system at each open port of evap, condenser. Measure oil needed in each component. It should be printed in the manual as per amount. Replace the receiver/dryer and orifice tube. Vacuum the system down and make sure it holds before adding Freon.
 

HotZ28

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JGBuick

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How many oz of oil are in that bottle? Which 03 car are you doing this work on, the LeSabre or PAU? Notice the 03-04 calls for 35-oz of 134a and a total of 9-oz PAG 150. Download the PDF in the link below & go to page #14 for the specs.
Thanks! From that PDF - All Eng. - 32.00 Oz. R-134a; 9.00 Oz. PAG-150 .... ( My car is a 2001)
 
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JGBuick

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2001 LeSabre Touring Edition
Don't assume anything if you are correcting errors of the past. Also don't run flush through a new compressor. Pull the compressor and drain out all the oil. You can flush the rest of the system at each open port of evap, condenser. Measure oil needed in each component. It should be printed in the manual as per amount. Replace the receiver/dryer and orifice tube. Vacuum the system down and make sure it holds before adding Freon.

Thanks! Yes, you cannot run "flush" through the compressor. Good reminder. I'll check the owners manual also.

Here's what will be replaced"

1. Condenser
2. Orifice Tube
3. Receiver/Dryer

It's been crazy hot here. (When has it not been?? o_O ) I have not been running the AC at all! Do you still think pulling the compressor is a good idea?
______________________________
 

JGBuick

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Another random thought.... At 60k, and going through all of this... WOULD it be wise to install a new radiator also?

No one likes doing things twice... Not sure what the life expectancy of an OEM 20yr old radiator is...?
 

BuickGirlFromMars

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1999 Buick Park Avenue Ultra (Supercharged) , 1977 Buick Electra Limited (350 SBB)
Another random thought.... At 60k, and going through all of this... WOULD it be wise to install a new radiator also?

No one likes doing things twice... Not sure what the life expectancy of an OEM 20yr old radiator is...?
no if your radiator doesnt leak, never froze, and the coolant wasnt nassssstttttyyy you should be fine. with the cap off, can you see shiny aluminum on the internals tubes/fins , and not like a cloudy grey? should be good
also any damage externally would be something to check
Your condensor, similar situation. if its not damaged or leak, flushing it (hopefully successfully) it should be just fine
 

JGBuick

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2001 LeSabre Touring Edition
no if your radiator doesnt leak, never froze, and the coolant wasnt nassssstttttyyy you should be fine. with the cap off, can you see shiny aluminum on the internals tubes/fins , and not like a cloudy grey? should be good
also any damage externally would be something to check
Your condensor, similar situation. if its not damaged or leak, flushing it (hopefully successfully) it should be just fine
Thanks for your input on this... Yes, the car spent almost it's entire life in a garage and also in a warm climate. It's been very well taken care of...
Coolant, oil changes... filters... But.... You know how things can just deteriorate for being old right?

I still am kicking myself for going to that other shop and not getting any resolution. Gauge pressures were all wrong.... and they basically said it's because "I" didn't replace the entire "Kit". (Condenser, drier, accumulator etc...) Anyhow.... water over the dam.

I have a new condenser so I'm looking forward to getting my A/C back in working order in a few weeks... I'm going over the steps and getting som great advice here from the forum members. So thanks everyone!
 

BuickGirlFromMars

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1999 Buick Park Avenue Ultra (Supercharged) , 1977 Buick Electra Limited (350 SBB)
Thanks for your input on this... Yes, the car spent almost it's entire life in a garage and also in a warm climate. It's been very well taken care of...
Coolant, oil changes... filters... But.... You know how things can just deteriorate for being old right?

I still am kicking myself for going to that other shop and not getting any resolution. Gauge pressures were all wrong.... and they basically said it's because "I" didn't replace the entire "Kit". (Condenser, drier, accumulator etc...) Anyhow.... water over the dam.

I have a new condenser so I'm looking forward to getting my A/C back in working order in a few weeks... I'm going over the steps and getting som great advice here from the forum members. So thanks everyone!
if your radiator does not leak and is clean then Im inclined to think its likely better quality than anything sold as replacement today
 
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