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A/C Evacuation & Recharge - 2001 LeSabre - Doing this myself - Questions

JGBuick

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Update: Refilled system with r134A and it's better...but I wouldn't say it's "Cold".... Maybe 50-55degs from the thermometer.

I'm heading out this afternoon and will see what happens on the highway....

Interesting to note that final gauge readings are not what I thought they would be. High side is lower and low side is higher...

I've done everything but replace the evaporator. (Could that have restrictions over 20 years?) Who knows.... I'm hoping the system balances out but from here.... I dunno....
 

JGBuick

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No outside temp display on this car. If it has one, I have never seen it. There's a bracket with nothing on it... and the last pic has something attached at the bottom. Sensor? Dunno! No loose pigtails as far as I can tell. Maybe your car being a different model?

Very interesting question and here's what I can see looking down:
I am bewildered now. Looking for a pigtail etc. Where would the sensor lead to? The compressor?
 

JGBuick

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Question for those with this model - Who has a sensor in this location?
 

John Canon

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Question for those with this model - Who has a sensor in this location?
On the Chilton page, the manual HVAC does not have an Ambient Air Temp Sensor, but the automatic HVAC shows the sensor mounted in front of the condenser, with the pigtail and connector coming from along the bottom.
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JGBuick

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On the Chilton page, the manual HVAC does not have an Ambient Air Temp Sensor, but the automatic HVAC shows the sensor mounted in front of the condenser, with the pigtail and connector coming from along the bottom.
So... I don't have an automatic HVAC. I'm guessing because of this, I would "not" have this connection. Would that be an accurate observation?

1659635763910.png
 

John Canon

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So... I don't have an automatic HVAC. I'm guessing because of this, I would "not" have this connection. Would that be an accurate observation?

View attachment 38842
Yes. In the automatic HVAC the ambient temp sensor is part of the feedback loop to maintain a constant inside temp. In the manual HVAC you are the feedback loop to maintain a constant inside temp. Push the lever to the right ... oops too far, push it back to the left a bit. Ah-hh that's about right.
 

lbear

2004 Buick LeSabre Limited Celebration
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I tested my 2004 LeSabre AC today. It was 75F outside and quite humid. Here is my reading:

20220804_194415.jpg
37F out of center vent
 

lbear

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Also my hose mod worked great. No more drips on steering hose and frame.


20220804_200741.jpg
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JGBuick

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I tested my 2004 LeSabre AC today. It was 75F outside and quite humid. Here is my reading:

View attachment 38853
37F out of center vent
Must be nice!!! I can't get my temps into the 40's!! Ugh.... everything by the book and twice no less!

Maybe... maybe it really is a blend door "Calibration"?? Or... maybe something is blocking the evaporator itself?? I can't think of anything else...

I'm wondering if I can clean the evaporator without undoing the latest mods etc...?? Adding more refrigerant "may" also fix things.

The coldest it got to day was about 53degs and that was driving down the highway at 75mph. Come to a stop and the temp goes up...
 

John Canon

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Try this test: start the cold engine and let it idle with the AC set to max cool. Then check the outlet temperatures before the heater core can warm up. Check every few minutes as the engine warms up. If the outlet temperature starts to increase maybe the blend door is allowing some flow through the heater core. If the outlet temp stays low ... well, my thinking is done for today.
 

JGBuick

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Try this test: start the cold engine and let it idle with the AC set to max cool. Then check the outlet temperatures before the heater core can warm up. Check every few minutes as the engine warms up. If the outlet temperature starts to increase maybe the blend door is allowing some flow through the heater core. If the outlet temp stays low ... well, my thinking is done for today.
Good idea... I can try that... I've read that when a higher reading is on the "low side" and a Lower reading is on the "high side" it may have something to do with the accumulator. (???) At this point, I have replaced almost everything. (No evaporator). My observations (so far) is telling me the pressures are "off". But??? Does a new compressor have a chance of being bad? If the clutch is engaged, isn't it compressing?

I really am (Mentally) taking a break from this as it's a bit numbing to figure out the "why".... I do appreciate everyone's ideas though! ;)
 

HotZ28

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But??? Does a new compressor have a chance of being bad? If the clutch is engaged, isn't it compressing?

I really am (Mentally) taking a break from this as it's a bit numbing to figure out the "why".... I do appreciate everyone's ideas though! ;)
Well, I was wondering the same thing? Going back about 105 post, I saw where you had the compressor replaced & nothing else. It could that the debris in the old system, contaminated the new V5 compressor and the control valve! When the compressor was replaced, was it a new one, rebuilt & what brand? Where was it purchased? Compressor warranty states, that if you can not provide proof of replacing the expansion valve and accumulator when installing the new compressor, the warranty is VOID!
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JGBuick

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Yep, I bet the orifice tube us full of trash

Original "had" some nominal debris and THEN the new compressor was installed along with a "NEW" orifice tube.

I replaced this tube "AGAIN" with equivalent tube so the system is on it's third orifie tube. The tube before this had zero signs of contamination but I replaced the tube anyway.
 

JGBuick

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Well, I was wondering the same thing? Going back about 105 post, I saw where you had the compressor replaced & nothing else. It could that the debris in the old system, contaminated the new V5 compressor and the control valve! When the compressor was replaced, was it a new one, rebuilt & what brand? Where was it purchased? Compressor warranty states, that if you can not provide proof of replacing the expansion valve and accumulator when installing the new compressor, the warranty is VOID!
1659715263396.png
1659715467629.png
 

ulycyc

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I'm wondering if when you removed the orifice tube a few times one of the 0 rings stayed in the port. If the orifice tube doesn't seat or the port has crud, old 0 rings or whatever fused in there it can effect your pressure problems. This used to be a big problem with mid/late 70's GM cars
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JGBuick

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I'm wondering if when you removed the orifice tube a few times one of the 0 rings stayed in the port. If the orifice tube doesn't seat or the port has crud, old 0 rings or whatever fused in there it can effect your pressure problems. This used to be a big problem with mid/late 70's GM cars
Thanks! Never thought of that!! It's worth investigating. I feel like there's a restriction somewhere... but where?
 

JGBuick

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You could temporarily bypass the heater core so no heat gets into the cabin. If after that the ac is significantly colder consistently then you have a blend door issue.
Worth checking for sure... I should probably replace the heater hoses anyway... Sheesh... who would have though this whole venture would be so complicated.
 
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