Brake pad post mortem - What killed these pads?

BuickGirlFromMars

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1999 Buick Park Avenue Ultra (Supercharged)
1617827447582.png \these were on the passenger front. what killed em? The left one has a slight taper downwards across whole edge. the right one is even but wtf
 

BuickGirlFromMars

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The taper is proper wear. Expected. Inboard pads tend to slightly do that
 

2007LucerneCXL

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2007 Lucerne CXL. and 1995 Lesabre currently, past 1973 Riviera, 1968 Riviera
I've seen something get stuck between the pads and rotors which chewed them up but usually a groove effect. Guesses, bad pad or materials keep in mind both sides may be made at the same time just come in the same box, piston, brake hose, rough caliber casting, wrong grease on slides, etc. The metal backing on the pads can have burrs or not fully flat, trial fit and file or grind where needed before installing.

I've seen more nonconforming parts in a day in QC then most people will see if a lifetime so I don't trust any part until I check it on finish and fitment. Doesn't make a difference who's name is on the box as anyone can have a bad day at work.
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BuickGirlFromMars

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1999 Buick Park Avenue Ultra (Supercharged)
I've seen something get stuck between the pads and rotors which chewed them up but usually a groove effect. Guesses, bad pad or materials keep in mind both sides may be made at the same time just come in the same box, piston, brake hose, rough caliber casting, wrong grease on slides, etc. The metal backing on the pads can have burrs or not fully flat, trial fit and file or grind where needed before installing.

I've seen more nonconforming parts in a day in QC then most people will see if a lifetime so I don't trust any part until I check it on finish and fitment. Doesn't make a difference who's name is on the box as anyone can have a bad day at work.
hmmm they were the nice AC Delco ceramics and the coated rotors from AC Delco. but i like the idea about checking the backing plate. i used the right lubricants and greases and the pins are nice and move freely, but i think next set i buy i will take a micrometer to the pads just to see how they are when new. sicne i will be buying micrometers, i will use them on my rotor too. if i have a lot of meat left for rotor, i will have them resurfaced instead of new ones.
 

BuickGirlFromMars

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1999 Buick Park Avenue Ultra (Supercharged)
I did some mroe research and I believe my phenomenom is caused by something called rust jacking.
Inboard rotor rusts and makes uneven surface far before the the outboard because moisture etc and you get something similar to what i see on my rear driver rotor and my front passenger. the rear driver is a cheap dollar store rotor because my ac delco coated one was chewed up by the damage the shop that did my brake lines.
looks like cooling vane rust, which i have a lot of, could be a cause too. I may want to look at drilled or slotted, not both, rotors for the front. Maybe get more air flow back there
 

2007LucerneCXL

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Very few manufacturers of OEM aftermarket parts would ever know there was a problem until after it happens.

A production run replacement part VS out of production OEM part may not even be from the same vendor just built around OEM spec and stamped with a OEM part number so it's somewhat difficult to tell who or where that part came from on a regular basis.

I know that some "B" grade parts go into the aftermarket from OEM manufacturers, usually cosmetic but something that the vehicle manufacturer wouldn reject.

On slotted vs drilled, slotted would be the first choice. There are all the debates on these but no one looks at a particular model, style or manufacturer they just use a magic wand and cast it across damming all to hell lol. I guess that a large number of automotive manufacturers and brake systems manufacturers may see it somewhat differently.
 
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