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Charging issue with 12v battery on eAssist Lacrosse

richardnewton

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Our 2013 LaCrosse eAssist is having some issues with the OEM 12v battery. Any ideas?

- For the past few weeks, we see a strange notice on the dashboard middle screen at startup "2 keys programmed". This is a fairly common error posted here.

- No service lights on dash and no codes show/stored on ScanGauge of OBD port.

- Yesterday car would not start due to dead battery. We jump started the car (using the on-board system) without issues. Then trickle charged the battery last night with a modern charger.

- Today while driving, we saw the dashboard middle screen showing the usual 14.5v for a few minutes, but now it is showing at 12.5v whilst driving.

- Today we had the battery load tested OK at Autozone with one of those large hand-held gizmos

- We are only driving 3x per week, roughly. And it is getting cold outside.

- We see GM has a few service bullitens for updating firmware, such as:

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2014/MC-10126242-9999.pdf

Also there is a gizmo which I think shows the current firmware on one's car, but I'm not sure how to tell if that is the latest

TIS

Finally, I saw this quote on fixing some grounds

Re: Chassis Ground Connections Re-tightened

Now that winter has begun to ease up, I was able to more closely examine the chassis ground connections under the hood for signs that would indicate which ones were re tightened. There were only two.

One was one of the welded on studs on the top of the driver's side front strut mounting surface. There are four studs starting at 9 o'clock (if 12 o'clock is straight toward the front of the car) and proceeding to 12 o'clock). The nut that has paint chipped off and the stud on which paint has been cleaned off is the one at 10 o'clock. There is only one wire going to that stud.

The other is on the vertical bracket about six inches straight forward of the center of the battery case. It is right behind the front painted surface rising between the driver's side of the grill and the driver's side lamp assembly. There are three chassis grounding studs in a vertical line starting at the lower end right next to a bracket holding a moderate sized electrical wiring harness connector.

The nut that has paint chipped off and the stud on which paint has been cleaned off is the one that is the top one of the three. There is only one wire going to that stud.

I have experienced 10,000 miles of driving without the dreaded instrument panel reset with lingering ABS, security and traction control warning lights. These two grounding studs are easy to get at so you may want to try this easy fix for yourselves.

Good luck.
 

richardnewton

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Just cleaned (only) the grounds as recommended by @HMTJ6821 above (thank you!). He must have been methodical to identify those specific points, as that seems to have fixed the "2 keys programmed" message, low battery voltage, and battery drain problem for me.

I inspected and cleaned 4 grounds:

- 1 wire was grounded at driver's side front strut monting area.

- 3 wires were grounded to the frame straight forward of the battery.

For sure all the posts were painted but the silver paint on your car makes it difficult to see what is painted and what is plated metal. There was very little oxidation overall as these are high-quality parts. But one wire "ring terminal" had a touch of oxidation and one had some black rubber goop covering about 50% of the contact which seemed to come from the factory and certainly could have caused a dodgy connection, especially with the painting & after several years of oxidation and vibration worked on the bit of metal I suppose were making contact. I used some fine sandpaper and a light wire brush to quickly clean the nut bottoms, both sides of the the flat ring terminals, and the grounding bolts (threads, hex section and flat base).

I did not clean or inspect any other grounding points. But there are plenty of other similar painted grounding screws under the hood that might be worth cleaning if you suffer dodgy electrics.

After cleaning, I checked voltage at the battery before starting and running (about 12.1v and 14.0v, respectively). I did a quick voltage drop test to the engine block and a few other random places with virtually no differences. Did a bunch of errands and voltage stayed about 13.9v during all the driving (both on the dashboard & OBD ScanGauge). Had the battery checked a second time but at a different shop (Oreilly's) and registered good.

Also, disconnecting those 4 grounds could have reset some module so an easier first step might be just to disconnect the battery for a few hours to reset everything.

FYI, last summer I cleaned the battery terminals, clamps, fuses above the battery. Everything was very clean. I also did some voltage drop & parasitic draw testing with no issues. This is a salty area but we keep the engine clean.

I will repost if more issues emerge.
 
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