Detail=LONG TIME!!

carsrmilife

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Brighton, MI
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Regal TourX
This past Saturday I decided I would give the TourX it's first real complete (window treatment, seat treatment, wash, clay bar, wax, seal) detail and prep it for all of the rain, bug guts, tar, and bird crap that would ensue this summer. Boy was I in for a nice treat! A complete interior and exterior detail took me 7 SEVEN! hours to do. I think the fact that the car is 16 feet long is part of the problem. But damn does it ever look good once completed. I am still shocked at the compliments this car garners.

Anybody else done a complete detail? Any tips/tricks for a more expedient process? I already used an orbital for the wax and seal.
 

Hinky

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Afraid that's about right. Doing a proper inside and out detail kills the day.

A ceramic coating like Cquartz lasts a lot longer than wax or sealants. Still murders your day, but not as often.
 

carsrmilife

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Brighton, MI
Buick Ownership
Regal TourX
Afraid that's about right. Doing a proper inside and out detail kills the day.

A ceramic coating like Cquartz lasts a lot longer than wax or sealants. Still murders your day, but not as often.
Hinky, I am glad that you bring up the ceramic coat! I don't know anyone that has used it yet, that was a pro job. So I didn't want to waste my time and money just to find out the DIY versions are just a gimmick. I've had good luck with using Chemical Guys Butter Wet Wax and Black Light Glaze/Sealant. What was your install process? Strip and apply?
 

Hinky

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What was your install process? Strip and apply?
Yep. It actually behaved a lot like the Blackfire sealant I had been using. Apply with an applicator pad and buff when it flashes. It's important to do small areas and be out of the sun. Like sealant, you can wait too long and it won't buff out. Unlike a sealant, it'll be stuck that way unless you grind it off.

As I understand it, the professional versions are thicker, so applying them the DIY applicator pad way would give you bubbles and orange peel.
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wagonlover56

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Silicon Valley CA
Buick Ownership
2018 TourX Essence
I've been thinking about taking my Tour X to a pro paint detailer because it has a lot of water spotting due to the fact it was on the dealer's lot for 10 months. Probably a lot of micro-scratches as well. The daily (or weekly) spray and quick wipe that the "lot jockeys" perform has got to be hard on the paint. Not only does the paint have water spots in places but a lot of the plastic pieces do as well (like the silver inserts on the taillights and front facia and the tops of the headlights). I have only ever polished cars by hand (no machine) with a general purpose cleaner/wax but I think a machine polishing will be necessary to get this car looking like it did when it left the factory. Since the white frost paint is a $1k option, it might be worth the $$$ to get it professionally polished.
 

FavaBean

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2018 Regal TourX Essence
I've been thinking about taking my Tour X to a pro paint detailer because it has a lot of water spotting
I'd start with using clay bar..it can also be used on the chrome parts.

If that doesn't work, you can also try equal parts of distilled water and distilled white vinegar..

Start in an inconspicuous area. Wash surface first, then gently apply vinegar solution with sponge. Leave it on the surface for only 30-60 seconds and thoroughly rinse (do small areas at a time) and follow-up each small section with a car soap rinse for good measure to neutralize the acidity. You may need to repeat if necessary.

You're basically trying to remove the mineral deposits (or industrial contaminants) the water spots left behind.

Keep in mind that this will strip the wax layer and you will need to reapply a good coat of wax.

Since you (we) have the white frost tricoat paint, the microscratches you refer to won't be as visible when compared to a darker finish and will be more likely hidden by a quality finish coat.

This process will help identify if you are dealing with deposits or if your paint is truly etched. Keep in mind that if you do take it to a professional, his buffing process will remove a fine layer of clear coat from the $1000 option you paid for.
 

carsrmilife

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Brighton, MI
Buick Ownership
Regal TourX
That’s some sound advice FavaBean. I’ve had problems with water spots on a previous car that got hit by sprinklers a lot. I actually had some decent luck with a bottle of water spot remover. I will see if I can find it to let you know what the brand was. The worst correction I’ve ever dealt with though, was some baked on bird crap. It etched the clear coat with pits.

I too have the tri-coat white and I had a bunch of these small rust looking spots I couldn’t get off. But the clay job I did over the weekend cleaned them right up.
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FavaBean

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Thanks @carsrmilife

I agree, clay bar worked the best on the rust looking spots. A different thread on this forum said the spots are actually from a rust-proof spray used inside the doors.

Ditto on the bird crap.. I still have my 2008 Camry which I attempted to remove an enormous bird doo which was laden with seeds.

It was a super hot day. I walked out to my car at lunch to be greeted by a petrified pile of seedy bird poop squarely centered on my trunk. Due to its enormous size, I swear that crap was left there either by an ostrich or a woolly mammoth.

I knew that I needed to remove the poop before it ate through my sheet metal. Fortunately, I carry a bottle of quick detailer and a towel in my cars. But after a few minutes of scrubbing, I realized that I was going to need an air chisel and belt sander.

Unfortunately, I continued scrub and scratched the surrounding area with the seeds caught in the pile of the cloth. There's nothing more annoying when you damage your own car.

Anyway, this lesson taught me a great way to deal with dry, caked-on poop. Saturate a paper towel with water, squeeze some water on the poop and cover it with the wet paper towel for 10-15 min. This traps the moisture onto the poop and subsequently loosens it enough for easy removal and minimal rubbing.
 
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Pacer69

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KC
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TourX
Call me old school but my usual exterior detail (which thanks for the reminder, I need to perform asap) involves a good hand wash with Dawn or Palmolive (great for dissolving road grime/grease/poop/etc but you do need to apply a wax after as it will strip all that off too). After the wash, an immediate wax with Mother's or Meguiar's carnauba. Interior also gets wiped/dusted with warm soapy microfiber rag and then 303 on dash and door vinyl. Anyone have a favorite leather seat conditioner? I used a Meguiar's version years ago on my S2000 and it seemed fine.

I clean the windows with Invisible Glass.

Speaking of damaging your own car, I was washing mine last week at the coin-op wand place and just carefully checking it for bird goo and such, and enjoying/anxious about the car not having any scratches/dings/etc yet...and I reach down to use my finger to take off some goo from the hood...and of course the car wash wand in my other hand also leaned down a bit and smacked the front left cladding SONOFABITCH careful parking be damned...did this one all by myself...left me with a 2, nice 1/2" blemishes there from the metal wand tip. Idiot. [Insert Picard faceplant here]

Been looking at youtube videos for best way to restore the cladding. I might hire a Dr. Vinyl guy to fix it, those guys are always great with that stuff. But any tips are also most welcome and I have to think it's an easy fix.
 

Jack GS

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Metro Detroit
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2019 Regal GS
Hinky, I am glad that you bring up the ceramic coat! I don't know anyone that has used it yet, that was a pro job.
I dropped my Regal off at Fade to Black Protective Films in Clawson last night (Between Troy and Royal Oak for anyone else in the Detroit, MI area). I am having a fair amount of XPEL Ultimate paint protection film installed as well as an ExoShield windshield film. XPEL Fushion ceramic coat will be applied on top.

It's not cheap, but I am curious to see how it compares to the wash and wax routine. Given the upfront and repair costs of the white frost tricoat, the HUD and safety systems behind the windshield, and the overall beating MI vehicles take from the roads, I want to protect everything I can. Time will tell if my "investment" pays off.

If nothing else, I will be able to enjoy driving the car more knowing there's some extra protection. That's priceless right??? :sneaky:
 

FavaBean

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I am having a fair amount of XPEL Ultimate paint protection film installed as well as an ExoShield windshield film.

Since you have owned the car for some time... I'd be curious how the film deals with the areas where you may have already picked up road rash / rock chips.

I've always wondered at what point it is simply too late to apply the film. Please update with your thoughts when complete. Thanks!
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Jack GS

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Metro Detroit
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@FavaBean, will do!

I have been very selective of the roads and conditions I have driven the car in. I've only racked up 1,000 miles since January. With limited highway driving, everything is still in good shape minus one very small chip in the front bumper that is barely noticeable even if you know it's there. Agreed, if the paint is already chewed up, there's probably not much point in protecting it. The money would be better spent repainting the damaged areas.
 

carsrmilife

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Brighton, MI
Buick Ownership
Regal TourX
You're welcome @FavaBean! I've done that exact same soaking method, albeit with a fast food napkin haha. It works great.

@Pacer69, yes Dawn works pretty good as a strip cleaning soap. Have you tried out Chemical Guys' wash for stripping? I'm curious how it fares, when compared to Dawn. I have had excellent results over the past several years, using Lexol leather cleaner and conditioner. I picked it up originally at a leather clothing store, eons ago. They sell it at Walmart and such too now.

@Jack GS, that's crazy you have only put that many miles on since January! I do that in two weeks haha. I've heard of Fade to Black and also how expensive and long the process is for the Ceramic coat, when done properly. I've started to think about a 3M clear bra as I already have a few chips on the leading edge of the hood and lower front bumper.
 

fng

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Delaware Ohio
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2018 Regal Essence Frost White Tri-Coat
I use Chemical Guys Citrus Wash and Gloss a couple of times a year. At one ounce diluted in five gallons of water, it doesn't strip the wax.

I use the Optimum rinseless wash most of the time. I only use the garden hose once in the spring (they use a lot of salt on the roads here in the winter) or when there are a lot of bugs on the front of the car after a road trip.
 

Pacer69

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@carsrmilife I haven't tried Chemical Bros, that sounds interesting I will check it out...will also look at the Lexol product, thank you and also @fng for the tips.
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L J

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Regal TourX
Got TourX smoother then a baby's butt and put on some insulator wax....I take more breaks then I work, gonna have to cut my pay.... wait not paying myself anything so will have to get shock collar for myself.20190611_161942.jpg
 
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glayer

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Columbus, OH
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2018 Regal TourX
I also have used Insulator wax for several years and really like it for its durability and decent shine. Does require a little elbow grease to buff off. Prep by washing with Dawn and then clay bar.
 
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