• Hint: Use a descriptive title for your new message
    If you're looking for help and want to draw people in who can assist you, use a descriptive subject title when posting your message. In other words, "2008 LaCrosse" isn't going to indicate to anybody that you need help. However, "Need help with my 2008 LaCrosse" will. Be as descriptive as you can. Please use common sense... This message can be closed by clicking the X in the top right corner.

Front upper ball joints


Full Member
Tampa, Florida
Buick Ownership
2012 Regal GS 6 spd Quicksilver
I need to replace both front upper ball joints. One is torn, the other is deflated looking so i planned on just doing both. Has anyone done theirs on here? It looks to be pretty simple. Just 3 bolts to remove but will i need to replace the bolts after i remove them? Are they reusable or one time use? Also how much of a pain is it to knock the old ball joint out of the strut mount/spindle?View attachment 1283720181111_133335.jpg20181111_124811.jpg
Last edited:


Junior Member
Buick Ownership
'12 GS 6MT
I've used a pickle fork to separate the ball-joint shaft from the knuckle for many vehicles, but not the Regal yet.. Looks like a large tuning fork, and you can usually borrow one from Autozone.



Well-known member
S.W. Ontario Canada
Buick Ownership
2018 Regal Sportback - 2010 Yamaha R6 (track bike) Past cars: 92 LeSabre, 98 Regal, 02 GrandPrixGT
I've done a few dozen lower ball joints, but never upper. All the front wheel drive cars I've worked on did not have upper ball joints,. Just lower. Ball joints can be a bitch. Having the right tools can help a lot.

Walt G

Full Member
25 miles SW of Chicago
Buick Ownership
'12 Regal GS
I've messed with mine quite a bit changing front alignment between 'track' and 'street'. Make sure you mark the location of the upper ball joint adjustment bolt (the top 'eccentric' one) before you remove it so you can put the new one in the same spot. The upper ball joint moves in and out to adjust camber, but will also mess up toe if you get it wrong and don't readjust.

I pretty sure that these are 'torque to yield' bolts. Since I was messing with mine all the time I bought new bolts, cross drilled them for safety wire, and do not torque them to yield but I do safety wire them.

Since you likely won't mess with this ever again, I'd just get new hardware. In that case, you'd need to mark the old eccentric, then use that old eccentric to get the new ball joint in position, then tighten the new 'bottom' bolt to hold it in place while you put the new top 'eccentric' one in.

I have not had to separate the upper ball joint on my Regal, but I've had good luck with this tool from Harbor Freight on other ball joints. I personally like it better than the pickle fork, but mostly in situations where I want to resuse the old ball joint. You are not reusing, so pickle away:


I don't frequent this forum much anymore since getting a different car to use for track days... PM me if you have any questions as I think I'd get that notification.


Buick Newbie
Nashua, NH
Buick Ownership
2011 Regal 2.0 Turbo, 6 Speed stick, BNR tune, Black on Black.
You ought to check for play before replacing those parts. If they are tight you could be over-fixing your car. Something I am often guilty of!
A deflated boot does not equal a failed part. And a torn one will eventually allow dirt in there, but it doesn't get loose immediately.
Also, buy good parts, no cheap junk!
Good stuff lasts, and makes your car feel right.

Okay, done being a beotch.
Pedal Commander