How to replace rear brakes

flrdr

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I'm getting ready to replace the rear brakes on my 2006 Buick Lucerne. Being as the emergency brake is part of the caliper, are there any special procedures for replacing the rear brakes and rotors? I did buy the special tool to spin the piston back in? Has anyone done this that can offer any advice? Are there any adjustments etc? Do I just spin the piston all the way in, replace the pads, and then pump the pedal to adjust?

Any advice would be appreciated. I just want to be prepared before digging into it. Thanks !! :)
 

Merkava_4

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2000 Buick LeSabre
Do I just spin the piston all the way in, replace the pads, and then pump the pedal to adjust?
No, you're gonna want to back the piston back out until your pads barely fit
over the rotor when you pivot the caliper bracket (with the pads loaded in)
over the rotor. If you don't do this, you'll have to push the brake pedal in a
long ways to apply the brakes.
 

Hennmann

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I'm facing the same thing with my 2005 Allure and I will be replacing the drivers side rear pads and passenger side caliper and pads due to a sticking park brake issue preventing the park brake from fully releasing. You mentioned that you have to back the piston back out to reduce the clearance and other than making sure the two notches are in the correct position I presume the park brakes will function correctly after the pads and caliper are reinstalled or will they need multiple applications to self adjust? Even though I have replaced calipers and pads before this is the first time I ran across a caliper style park brake.
 

polarzak

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Ex-Lucerne Owner, Now loving two Chrysler 300s.
No, you're gonna want to back the piston back out until your pads barely fit
over the rotor when you pivot the caliper bracket (with the pads loaded in)
over the rotor. If you don't do this, you'll have to push the brake pedal in a
long ways to apply the brakes.
NONSENSE!!!

I have done these type of rear brakes on my Lucerne, my Lacrosse (Allure), and my LeSabre and you rotate the piston in until it will retract no more. Install the pads, and start the car up and then as the original poster stated...pump the brake until the feel is normal.
From the Service Manual:
1.With the engine OFF, gradually apply the brake pedal to approximately 2/3 of its travel distance. 2.Slowly release the brake pedal.
Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 1-2 until a firm pedal is obtained. This will properly seat the brake pistons and brake pads

NOTE: You need to disconnect the retainer clip on the parking brake cable, but the parking brake mechanism remains attached to the caliber.

Torque settings: Rear Caliper Bracket bolts 94 ft lb
Caliper Pin Bolt 25 ft lb

The piston can be a pain to turn back if you completely remove the caliper., but if you leave one pin in the caliper, rotate it up, it will provide some resistance to turn the piston in.

Pad with the wear indicator go inboard. Notches on the piston should be in the same position as before you started.

As for adjusting the parking brake, it will self adjust, once the pads are seated.

Good luck.
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Henman

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NONSENSE!!!

I have done these type of rear brakes on my Lucerne, my Lacrosse (Allure), and my LeSabre and you rotate the piston in until it will retract no more. Install the pads, and start the car up and then as the original poster stated...pump the brake until the feel is normal.
From the Service Manual:
1.With the engine OFF, gradually apply the brake pedal to approximately 2/3 of its travel distance. 2.Slowly release the brake pedal.
Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 1-2 until a firm pedal is obtained. This will properly seat the brake pistons and brake pads

NOTE: You need to disconnect the retainer clip on the parking brake cable, but the parking brake mechanism remains attached to the caliber.

Torque settings: Rear Caliper Bracket bolts 94 ft lb
Caliper Pin Bolt 25 ft lb

The piston can be a pain to turn back if you completely remove the caliper., but if you leave one pin in the caliper, rotate it up, it will provide some resistance to turn the piston in.

Pad with the wear indicator go inboard. Notches on the piston should be in the same position as before you started.

As for adjusting the parking brake, it will self adjust, once the pads are seated.

Good luck.
I'm back down this path again as the Cardone POS seized up only a year and a half after installation. I discovered this while changing tires and the driver's side held but the passenger side with the Cardone caliper turned like the brake was released! The parkbrake arm was seized rock solid in the brake on position and the pads were worn down creating the necessary clearance! I ordered an AC Delco caliper, installed it, pumped up the brakes and bled. This caliper otherwise works but the pads are dragging. Is the caliper defective or do I have to remove and turn the piston in slightly to provide clearance? I'm keeping in mind the piston does not fully retract but must be screwed or turned in while new pads are installed. BTW I didn't remove the cable retainer clip as mentioned above. I turned the arm to the engaged position to install the cable and then installed the caliper on the mounts, then the piston moved out when I pumped up thebrakes and bled them. Is there a special procedure for these calipers?
 

2007LucerneCXL

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2007 Lucerne CXL. and 1995 Lesabre currently, past 1973 Riviera, 1968 Riviera
You may want to check the guide pins and if they are properly lubed, move freely and the seals are good.

Here's a video showing how to do the rears, I know that you have done them but it may offer help on what to look for.

 

Henman

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2007LucerneCXL
That was one of the best videos I have seen on this👍! I did it correct the first time several years ago and HE was the ONLY ONE who mentioned make sure the holes or slots are facing straight up and down! This was playing my mind wondering if this was forgotten this time but when I examined it, these were in the proper position and not the problem. Discovering the POS Cardone rebuilt garbage failed I was tooo scared to apply the park brakes and this time the cable was seizing up😡. The original drivers side caliper albeit slightly sticking is still working so I may as well replace ALL of the secondary brake cables and hardware. Some of the videos were so amature they looked like they were done in a ghetto😂 with a jack shoved under and with the wheel hanging up in the air with no axle stand they demonstrated and of course the slot or hole position was not mentioned. For everybody else out there facing this situation there is one thing ALL of them never mentioned in the videos. When you assemble the caliper/brake assembly including bleeding the brakes DO NOT INSTALL THE DAMN TIRE!! Apply the brakes hard to check for leaks, release, go back and check if the rotor rotates freely! If not possibly a defective caliper or something sticking/binding! Next apply the park brake, first check and see if they are applying and lastly release the park brake pedal and go back and check if the rotor is rotating freely to insure the park brakes are fully released! This will allert you if you have bad cables. When this saga first happened I kept applying and releasing the pedal and the driver side caliper brakecable arm assembly freed up but the passenger side didn't so I replaced the caliper. For the longest time after applying and releasing I would drive for a bit, stop and poke my fingers through the spokes of the rims and feel the rotor to see if it was hot. The driver side was cool and the passenger side with the new AC Delco caliper was hot alerting me to a problem. many cars I have purchased had park brake that didn't work and everyone of my cars that they worked and I used never gave problems!! Use them all the time and they usually don't fail! Don't use them and the actuators and or cables seize up!
 

2007LucerneCXL

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Glad it worked out for you. The other thing, honestly can't remember if in the video or not, is to inspect any new parts fully for rough surfaces and burs in the pistons, pin slides and brake pad area. I don't care who's name is on the box, every manufacturer can a off day and a part with a possible problem. A 5 minute inspection and slight rework is a lot easier than a complete teardown and repair later.

Yep, some of those YouTube videos are funny and scary at the same time LOL.
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Henman

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Glad it worked out for you. The other thing, honestly can't remember if in the video or not, is to inspect any new parts fully for rough surfaces and burs in the pistons, pin slides and brake pad area. I don't care who's name is on the box, every manufacturer can a off day and a part with a possible problem. A 5 minute inspection and slight rework is a lot easier than a complete teardown and repair later.

Yep, some of those YouTube videos are funny and scary at the same time LOL.
Now all I need is a parts breakdown of the cables and hardware🙏
All I'm finding are the left and right rear cables but I also need the hardware as well due to rust. There is also that metal connector linkage that the adjuster nut slides into that I need. The clips were rusted and anyway I removed the rear cables with all the hardware and took a tie strap and hung the primary cable safely up and out of the way. As it was in order to carefully remove the cable ends out of the small metal coupler I had to carefully dribble hydrochloric acid on the assembly dissolving the rust so I could slide the ends out. The adjuster nut I used acid on it as well and could easily turn the adjuster off. This was done so both cable assemblies could be slid through the hole where they are locked in place with the spring locks on the housing.
 

2007LucerneCXL

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Here's a site, comes up in Russian but has a English drop down menu. It's a little of a pain to get through but it has full diagrams and parts list especially on the discontinued Lucerne. You can't order off it but at least you will know what to look for and a diagram of all the components.
https://catalogs-parts.com/ru/
 

Henman

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Here's a site, comes up in Russian but has a English drop down menu. It's a little of a pain to get through but it has full diagrams and parts list especially on the discontinued Lucerne. You can't order off it but at least you will know what to look for and a diagram of all the components.
Каталоги запчастей на сайт, каталог в аренду
Thanks again and before I saw your response I found it @ wholesalegmpartsonline
and now have discovered the sleeve is called the Equalizer
This setup almost defies logic as the Primary cable is directly coupled to the RH cable using a small coupler or connector and the LH is directly connected to the end of the Equalizer using a threaded rod and nut inserted into the end of the Equalizer. I'm used to seeing the LH and RH cable both pointing in the same direction both being pulled in the same direction by the primary using a "T" setup. I will have to lay things out on the bench assembled to figure out the logic of this minus of course the primary still in the car. When I removed the LH and RH I kind of reassembled things back on the two cables in an attempt of organized chaos.
 

Henman

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And I might add the equalizer AC Delco 25512384 is Identical to what is on my car but everybody else shows a 15714664
Here is a link for a Grand Prix that is identical to mine
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G-320352

You may want to check the guide pins and if they are properly lubed, move freely and the seals are good.

Here's a video showing how to do the rears, I know that you have done them but it may offer help on what to look for.

Excellent video, great job showing me. This is the first time had to do my GM Luzerne with the turn in caliper. did the front yesterday new pads, new hardware and rotors. been doing brakes for about 50 years on all my cars. Can't trust some mechanics here. Only Thing I did was to put some blue non-Harding Loctite 242 on all the bolts. Learned that when I raced dirt bikes in the woods in Michigan Enduros. Saved my butt a lot of times.
 
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