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Ignition lock cylinder replacement: Have you done this?

Snorkel68

Member
32
8
8
Buick Ownership
2005 Park Avenue Ultra
I am wondering why the steering column is best to remove to take off one piece that is mounted to it?
 

2007LucerneCXL

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Illinois
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2007 Lucerne CXL. and 1995 Lesabre currently, past 1973 Riviera, 1968 Riviera

Ignition Lock Cylinder Replacement​

Ignition Lock Cylinder Replacement​

Removal Procedure​

  1. 375970.gif


    CAUTION
    Caution
    Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.

    Disconnect the battery negative cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection (Top Post) in Engine Electrical.

  2. CAUTION
    Caution
    Refer to SIR Caution in Cautions and Notices.

    Disable the SIR system. Refer to SIR Disabling and Enabling in SIR.
  3. Turn the ignition lock cylinder to the start position.

  4. NOTE
    Important
    In order to remove the upper trim cover and lock cylinder you will need to release the lock cylinder retaining pin in the access hole of the ignition lock cylinder case.

    Remove the steering column trim covers. Refer to Steering Column Trim Cover Replacement  .
    Gently lift the upper trim cover so you may Insert the tip of an awl into the access hole (1) of the ignition lock cylinder case.
  5. Push down and hold the retaining pin of the ignition lock cylinder.
  6. Release the ignition lock cylinder to the run position.
  7. Remove the ignition lock cylinder by pulling the cylinder away from the steering column.
 

Snorkel68

Member
32
8
8
Buick Ownership
2005 Park Avenue Ultra
Ok, the key does not turn, the lock cylinder does not release because the key will, not turn to the on position. I need to remove the entire assembly that the lock cylinder goes into.
 

BuickGirlFromMars

Well-known member
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Buick Ownership
1999 Buick Park Avenue Ultra (Supercharged) , 1977 Buick Electra Limited (350 SBB)
I am wondering why the steering column is best to remove to take off one piece that is mounted to it?
You soaid you wanted to i thought?

Because you cant remove your lock cylinder from your column, and your column is easily removed from the car, and you wanted to look at it on the bench or have a professional have a crack at it. if you have the 2nd option it will be easier to bring that to them than to have them come to you esp cost wise.
______________________________
 

Snorkel68

Member
32
8
8
Buick Ownership
2005 Park Avenue Ultra
No, I said I want to take the lock cylinder assembly off. The piece the lock cylinder goes into
s-l1600.jpg
 
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2007LucerneCXL

Full Member
10,756
3,837
113
Illinois
Buick Ownership
2007 Lucerne CXL. and 1995 Lesabre currently, past 1973 Riviera, 1968 Riviera
Disconnect battery, wait 20 minutes and vehicle system is fully discharged, remove steering wheel airbag, remove steering wheel, remove lock assembly see post #22 for components and details.
 

BuickGirlFromMars

Well-known member
3,836
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113
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1999 Buick Park Avenue Ultra (Supercharged) , 1977 Buick Electra Limited (350 SBB)
No, I said I want to take the lock cylinder assembly off. The piece the lock cylinder goes into
s-l1600.jpg
oh

i gotcha now
______________________________
 

Snorkel68

Member
32
8
8
Buick Ownership
2005 Park Avenue Ultra
Update! I disassembled the steering column to the point I removed the ignition switch assembly and took it to my local Chevrolet dealer. He ordered the new switch for $85 and will install it in my housing . I was able to push the cylinder out the back after I cut the head off. I should be reassembling next week if parts come in! The pic is what it looks like now lol
 

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Alan 55

Member
Sustaining Member
638
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Florida
Buick Ownership
2001 Buick Park Avenue, previously owned 1997 Park Avenue
Update! I disassembled the steering column to the point I removed the ignition switch assembly and took it to my local Chevrolet dealer. He ordered the new switch for $85 and will install it in my housing . I was able to push the cylinder out the back after I cut the head off. I should be reassembling next week if parts come in! The pic is what it looks like now lol
Thanks for the update with picture. I am sure that this info will be helpful to others. Hope that everything goes well when it comes time for reassembly.
 

Snorkel68

Member
32
8
8
Buick Ownership
2005 Park Avenue Ultra
Ok, today I finally got the parts and had a chance to put it all together. It works! I took pictures to help in case someone else encounters a similar issue as I did with the key not turning.

I ended up pulling steering wheel (First I unhooked both battery cables and then put them together to drain and residual charge), airbag (I watched a video online of course to figure it out), turn signal plate(that is Spring loaded), then the entire ignition switch housing. 20220226_154356.jpg
The horn wire you push the black piece in and twist 1/4 turn to release. The airbag connector I pulled up on the yellow cap piece on the opposite end as the wires, it looked like a plastic outlet protector when it came out of the big part of the yellow connector. Then it was a slight twist to pop the airbag connector off the airbag. This may not be the correct or proper method (ask a pro), it is just what worked for me.


20220326_151921.jpg

I first released the wiring connection for the steering wheel controls then I watched a video on steering wheel removal, which was simply loosen the nut (I left it on loosely so I did not hit myself in the face with the steering wheel) in the center, then with something soft ( I used my hand) pound on either side alternately and then give it a jerk and it popped loose. Once it is loose remove the nut and set the steering wheel aside. 20220226_161258.jpg
The center snap ring holds the airbag clock spring onto the column. Under the clock spring assembly there is a spring washer and then... 6BA803F5-72D6-4DA6-9CB5-E1EB896C6F70.jpeg
There is a small retaining ring around the splined shaft that holds the spring loaded plate in place. I was able to press the plate down with a pickle fork as I popped the snap ring of with a pick. A second person or possibly there is a tool for releasing this spring, but I was alone and used what I had.

ADC67AD5-EA9A-491B-A9C9-C4A95628503D.jpeg ADC67AD5-EA9A-491B-A9C9-C4A95628503D.jpeg

I removed the turn signal thinking there was a screw behind it but there was NOT. Two small external Torx head bolts hold the small black box on just below the key. There is a black cable that comes into the back of the ignition assembly that has a tab to push to release it for removal of assembly, you can see the shiny end just above the steering column on the right hand side.

0E55F81C-E56C-49AD-8A06-F5123B0DB74C.jpeg

This tiny white connector on top of ignition key area was released by a slight twist in a clockwise fashion. I turned it very gently with a small flat blade screwdriver.
 

Snorkel68

Member
32
8
8
Buick Ownership
2005 Park Avenue Ultra
Then I had the entire ignition assembly out and free. I took it to my Chevy dealer and the mechanic worked on it for a bit but could not get the key top turn or the ignition piece to release. So we decided that I would get it myself and if I destroyed it in the process I would get another housing off Ebay. I did not take photos of the disassembly but, it was fairly simple but a little animalistic. Since the cylinder would not come out or turn I took a grinder with a cutting blade and cut across (two times making a cross pattern) the head in the area where the key goes in, just so the head of the cylinder was cut but not into the housing assembly. I then took a chisel and gently broke the head off in four pieces leaving the end of the cylinder looking like this..

67EAD3FB-6AD2-4C0A-8C76-60D74BF1C551.jpeg

I still could not get it to release so out of frustration I decided to be an animal. I took my chisel and placed it directly where the slot for the key is and gave it a tap with my hammer. Thinking I could maybe break the cylinder and remove the pieces. To my surprise I got this...

90BD9288-66A4-48BD-97B6-46070B53DC0B.jpeg

The gears and surrounding plastic popped out and the cylinder remains fell on my work bench. Notice the metal tab sticking up on the left end of the cylinder, that slides into a slot on the housing during reassembly.

2C2BC935-2D98-4C3A-B108-E4B980B86BB5.jpeg

I put the plastic gears back in the proper sides and aligned the based on a green paint mark that went across both gears, that you can see in my picture.

7C13357B-B5A1-4653-B3E2-35ACC7ED7600.jpeg

I then popped the plastic cover on to hold the gears in place and I was ready for reassembly. With the new cylinder in hand I should have checked to make sure it would line up with the proper spot on the gears but I had no clue that it didn't, which lead me to putting everything back together except the steering wheel and airbag, then having to remove it all again (I installed and removed everything a total of 3 times before I got it right). While putting the spring loaded plate back on I had to put a wedge behind the joint and the dash, as the splined shaft would push back through the bearing and make it so I could not get the snap ring in place. When you look inside where the cylinder goes there is a slot for the cylinder to go in to turn the plastic gears. Line up the tab on the cylinder with the slot in the metal housing and see which way the slot in the plastic gear needs to be, you can then rotate the plastic gears by hand so it all slides together easily.

F088AE37-8531-48CA-9CAB-273E8396853B.jpeg

On the left side you can see a square that is of a different color, that is the release pin that was mentioned multiple times in the early parts of this thread. There is a small indentation on the housing assembly that has a small taper which allows the release pin the be pressed down as you slide the cylinder in and when in place it will spring up to hold the cylinder in the housing. My Chevy dealer got me the new cylinder, coded it for me with the new tumblers and springs for $205. When I had it assembled completely, I hooked up the battery, then I programmed my new key to my car. I put the old key in (my Chevy dealer made it the new cylinder take the same key as my old one) and turned it to the run position but did not start the car. When the security light shut off I turned off the key and removed it, I then put then new key they made in and turned it to the run position for about 15 seconds. I shut it off and removed the. key. I then inserted the key and started the car. It is now working!! YAY ME! Thank you to all who hung with me and gave the the advice I needed to make this project work!! This forum saved me lots of $$$ I am sure since I did not have to have it towed to a shop and worked on. I hope this helps someone else in the future!!
______________________________
 

BuickGirlFromMars

Well-known member
3,836
1,096
113
Buick Ownership
1999 Buick Park Avenue Ultra (Supercharged) , 1977 Buick Electra Limited (350 SBB)
Then I had the entire ignition assembly out and free. I took it to my Chevy dealer and the mechanic worked on it for a bit but could not get the key top turn or the ignition piece to release. So we decided that I would get it myself and if I destroyed it in the process I would get another housing off Ebay. I did not take photos of the disassembly but, it was fairly simple but a little animalistic. Since the cylinder would not come out or turn I took a grinder with a cutting blade and cut across (two times making a cross pattern) the head in the area where the key goes in, just so the head of the cylinder was cut but not into the housing assembly. I then took a chisel and gently broke the head off in four pieces leaving the end of the cylinder looking like this..

View attachment 36701

I still could not get it to release so out of frustration I decided to be an animal. I took my chisel and placed it directly where the slot for the key is and gave it a tap with my hammer. Thinking I could maybe break the cylinder and remove the pieces. To my surprise I got this...

View attachment 36702

The gears and surrounding plastic popped out and the cylinder remains fell on my work bench. Notice the metal tab sticking up on the left end of the cylinder, that slides into a slot on the housing during reassembly.

View attachment 36703

I put the plastic gears back in the proper sides and aligned the based on a green paint mark that went across both gears, that you can see in my picture.

View attachment 36704

I then popped the plastic cover on to hold the gears in place and I was ready for reassembly. With the new cylinder in hand I should have checked to make sure it would line up with the proper spot on the gears but I had no clue that it didn't, which lead me to putting everything back together except the steering wheel and airbag, then having to remove it all again (I installed and removed everything a total of 3 times before I got it right). While putting the spring loaded plate back on I had to put a wedge behind the joint and the dash, as the splined shaft would push back through the bearing and make it so I could not get the snap ring in place. When you look inside where the cylinder goes there is a slot for the cylinder to go in to turn the plastic gears. Line up the tab on the cylinder with the slot in the metal housing and see which way the slot in the plastic gear needs to be, you can then rotate the plastic gears by hand so it all slides together easily.

View attachment 36705

On the left side you can see a square that is of a different color, that is the release pin that was mentioned multiple times in the early parts of this thread. There is a small indentation on the housing assembly that has a small taper which allows the release pin the be pressed down as you slide the cylinder in and when in place it will spring up to hold the cylinder in the housing. My Chevy dealer got me the new cylinder, coded it for me with the new tumblers and springs for $205. When I had it assembled completely, I hooked up the battery, then I programmed my new key to my car. I put the old key in (my Chevy dealer made it the new cylinder take the same key as my old one) and turned it to the run position but did not start the car. When the security light shut off I turned off the key and removed it, I then put then new key they made in and turned it to the run position for about 15 seconds. I shut it off and removed the. key. I then inserted the key and started the car. It is now working!! YAY ME! Thank you to all who hung with me and gave the the advice I needed to make this project work!! This forum saved me lots of $$$ I am sure since I did not have to have it towed to a shop and worked on. I hope this helps someone else in the future!!
Your car didnt need the programming to use the key you already had unless you mean that GM key came with it. Then if it did, I think you need to program the keys at the same time. I also just looked and you used your current key to initiate the learn procedure and then put a new key in to program, youre good ! Thanks for the write up
 

Snorkel68

Member
32
8
8
Buick Ownership
2005 Park Avenue Ultra
Your car didnt need the programming to use the key you already had unless you mean that GM key came with it. Then if it did, I think you need to program the keys at the same time. I also just looked and you used your current key to initiate the learn procedure and then put a new key in to program, youre good ! Thanks for the write up
I had GM cut me a new key when they made the new ignition cylinder just in case my old keys were part of the problem.
 

Snorkel68

Member
32
8
8
Buick Ownership
2005 Park Avenue Ultra
Ok. Now that I finished it is doing a similar thing. If I fiddle with it I can get it to turn and start. Could I have over tightened a screw and put something in a bind? The key turned flawlessly on the bench before I put the assembly back in. Is there a piece that reads the brake position that may be bad and not letting it turn?? The first time I tried I had to wiggle it once, then it worked a few times and I parked the car because a blizzard was coming and I was not getting stuck at work because it not wanting to start. There other day I decided to start driving it and I fiddled with it for 5 minutes before it turned and started. If I shut the car off but do not turn the key all the way off I can start it at anytime.
 

BuickGirlFromMars

Well-known member
3,836
1,096
113
Buick Ownership
1999 Buick Park Avenue Ultra (Supercharged) , 1977 Buick Electra Limited (350 SBB)
Ok. Now that I finished it is doing a similar thing. If I fiddle with it I can get it to turn and start. Could I have over tightened a screw and put something in a bind? The key turned flawlessly on the bench before I put the assembly back in. Is there a piece that reads the brake position that may be bad and not letting it turn?? The first time I tried I had to wiggle it once, then it worked a few times and I parked the car because a blizzard was coming and I was not getting stuck at work because it not wanting to start. There other day I decided to start driving it and I fiddled with it for 5 minutes before it turned and started. If I shut the car off but do not turn the key all the way off I can start it at anytime.
did you lubricate it
______________________________
 

Snorkel68

Member
32
8
8
Buick Ownership
2005 Park Avenue Ultra
Yes the technician lubed it up for me when he assembled the ignition inion switch and tumblers. It worked smooth and fine before I installed it on the column. I'd there something that keeps it from turning until you press the brake pedal? Could this be holding me back?
 

BuickGirlFromMars

Well-known member
3,836
1,096
113
Buick Ownership
1999 Buick Park Avenue Ultra (Supercharged) , 1977 Buick Electra Limited (350 SBB)
Yes the technician lubed it up for me when he assembled the ignition inion switch and tumblers. It worked smooth and fine before I installed it on the column. I'd there something that keeps it from turning until you press the brake pedal? Could this be holding me back?
No. The key pushes all the proper pins, the only thing that can affect the turning is if the column lock stuff is binding. since there is a shift lock that keeps you from removing your key unless in park, you should look at both of those for proper working and binding. i believe both can be removed from the equaition on the cylinder end but idk how
 
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