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Installed Powerstop front rotors today

Wlepse

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2018 Regal TourX Essence
I was so impressed with the Powerstop rear slotted and drilled rotors I decided to order the fronts, having a $15 rebate was just a bonus.

These rotors were well made but not quite as clean as the rears. There were a few places the counter sinking could have been cleaner but the coating was well done. Also I was happy to see they don't just drill holes wherever, so the holes do not go through any vanes.

Installation was pretty straight forward like the rears but there are a few things to watch for. But to get this done you'll need a 19mm for wheels, 14mm for caliper bolts, 21mm got carrier bolts a T30 for rotor bolt and caliper tool.

After getting the caliper bolts out I had a hell of a time getting the caliper off the pads. It turns out they must have used an adhesive on the pads, but they installed the caliper before it dried. So it was pretty hard to pry this off...harder than usual. So if you have issues keep this in mind.

The carrier bolts were also hard to remove. After getting them out it appears they used red loctite. I bushed this out of the threads and didn't replace it since I have never had these bolts loosen.

The T30 removes the countersunk bolt on the rotor and mine pulled right off but my hub flange had a lot more rust than I expected. So I removed as much as I could and applied a little anti size before putting the new rotor on.

This kit came with hardware that was identical to OEM and it was different than anything else I have seen. It really is quite nice. The hardware holds the pads in the slides and has fingers that return the pad when hydraulic pressure is reduced to keep the pads from rubbing on the rotor. Really a simple solution. Because of this I was able to load the carrier before installing it. Also you will notice one pad has 2 nipples, the other has 3. The one with 2 goes to the piston.

PXL_20210531_174450735.jpg PXL_20210531_174941452.jpg
PXL_20210531_174628283.jpg

After pressing the piston back I was able to slide it over and bolt it down. I reinstalled the wheel and torqued the lugs then went for a drive to bed them in. Initial impression is good but I will know more in the coming days.

PXL_20210531_201025025.jpg
 
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Iowa
Buick Ownership
2018 Regal TourX Essence
This is great - I saw your rear powerstops on a previous post and had ordered the F&R set with the rebate. I installed them on Sunday, took pictures and was ready to post the front write up but it looks like you beat me to it!

Some comments to add from my experience with the fronts (I'll add my experience with the rears to the previous post):

- I pulled off the caliper bolts, but the pads were so tight on the disk that I had to unscrew the bracket and bleed the line a little bit in order to get the assembly off on the front passenger side.
- I also had issues with adhesive
- I did not brush the loctite off the bolt. I just reused them as is and cranked them down pretty well.
- I used a wire brush to scrub the hubs on both sides. My rust wasn't that bad, but I figured while I have the discs off I might as well clean it up.
- Applied anti-seize as well. This is a very easy step that you won't regret whenever you do brakes again.
- my OEM pads were all beveled differently. most had the angle on both sides, one was completely flat, and the other had only one side beveled. Not sure what was going on with that.
- I found it very challenging to get the front pads into the clips. I wish I took more pictures to describe my issue, but I ended up having a much easier time installing the pads with the caliper completely off.
- I do not have a caliper retracting tool. I used a wood shim and some woodworking clamps to push the piston down. This takes some time. You may have to bleed the line a little bit if it's not depressing.
- one of my powerstop pads had a small chunk missing out of a corner. This was disappointing, but I don't think it will affect short term brake performance much. I'll just make sure to check them regularly.
- the stickers on the rotor (near the hub) are not easy to get off without leaving residue. I just left them on.
- Make sure you pop the lid on your master cylinder and leave it cracked so you don't get too much pressure building up.

In general, I think that these brakes are fine. I bought them because the price was right and I needed to replace my rears because of that awful squealing sound (which I never figured out the cause of). After the break in, I've put probably 100 some miles on them and they bite well but not too hard, and don't make any strange sounds. I'm going to be putting 1000-1500 miles on this week on a fishing trip, so I'll be testing them out on some windy roads with varying elevation and a lot of highways, so I'll post an update as to how they did.
 

Wlepse

Well-known member
1,433
680
113
NNJ
Buick Ownership
2018 Regal TourX Essence
- my OEM pads were all beveled differently. most had the angle on both sides, one was completely flat, and the other had only one side beveled. Not sure what was going on with that.
I noticed this too and I think I saw something similar on the rears. Best guess is that this is somehow a way to determine pad left while in the caliper. On the rears I incorrectly assumed this little lip of pad I was seeing was indicating there was nothing left. Maybe you can slip a feeler gauge in there to see what is left??
 
34
30
18
Iowa
Buick Ownership
2018 Regal TourX Essence
I noticed this too and I think I saw something similar on the rears. Best guess is that this is somehow a way to determine pad left while in the caliper. On the rears I incorrectly assumed this little lip of pad I was seeing was indicating there was nothing left. Maybe you can slip a feeler gauge in there to see what is left??
That seems unnecessary but I really wouldn't put it past GM. Either way I'm glad all the power stop pads were the same, so I can sleep well at night :ROFLMAO:
______________________________
 

Wlepse

Well-known member
1,433
680
113
NNJ
Buick Ownership
2018 Regal TourX Essence
King...not sure if you have felt this, but on occasion I think I am feeling the slots and or holes when braking. It isn't happening enough yet to figure out what might be causing it but I did feel something similar on my old Legacy GT when I installed slotted rotors. Back then I figured it was due to my upgraded LCA bushings but this car doesn't have that.

Other than this slight vibration on occasion the brakes seem to be performing really well. Initial bite might be slightly reduced but they modulate well and I can stop hard enough to annoy other people in the car.
 
34
30
18
Iowa
Buick Ownership
2018 Regal TourX Essence
King...not sure if you have felt this, but on occasion I think I am feeling the slots and or holes when braking. It isn't happening enough yet to figure out what might be causing it but I did feel something similar on my old Legacy GT when I installed slotted rotors. Back then I figured it was due to my upgraded LCA bushings but this car doesn't have that.

Other than this slight vibration on occasion the brakes seem to be performing really well. Initial bite might be slightly reduced but they modulate well and I can stop hard enough to annoy other people in the car.
I just took her on a 1200 mile road trip, and I did notice something weird when I was braking at low speeds in downtown Duluth. Sort of a Grinding from my front passenger side, but I do believe that's my car telling me it's time to get that front lower control arm TSB taken care of.

Other than that, my only note on the brakes is that they don't bite as hard initially, but still do the job just fine.
 
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