Lowered GS..... finally!

GTXgp

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Las Colinas (DFW), TX
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'12 Regal GS
After months of busy schedules, procrastination, and insane Texas heat... I finally conned a few friends to help me knock this out. For those who didn't follow the previous thread, these are H&R 28998-5 springs, from Germany. They are not sold in the states at the time of this post so you will have to coordinate with a retailer in Europe. Also, from my research, I believe (but can't guarantee) that this same part number will work on regular Regals. The different PNs H&R lists are for the "Sport Tourer" (read: station wagon) and AWD variants.

I am not posting this as a step-by-step, I am simply posting some of the tricks/traps I ran into getting this done, which will be useful if you have done suspension before and want to know the differences with the HiPer. Also, this is NOT a one-man job, there is heavy lifting and maneuvering that you could not do by yourself.

We started with the driver's side. We didn't have a service manual so we were just figuring it out as we went and basically unbolted EVERYTHING LOL. It took an hour of fiddling, but we ended up with this:

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For the passenger side, things went MUCH smoother, taking 20-30min and here are some notes:

1. You need to unbolt the tie-rod end, axle nut, sway bar end-link, rear strut bolt (holds two brackets), caliper bolts, and the lower control arm bolt. Then you can unbolt the top strut mount nut (under the hood, there are two... just undo the first one and remove the collar)
2. You do NOT need to unbolt the strut to knuckle (unusual for those familiar with McPherson), or the two vertical bolts that are under the lower control arm bolt.
3. You will end up with something like this:

diagram1.jpg


Loosening the strut-to-knuckle bolts do absolutely nothing for you in removing this assembly, I know because we did it on the driver's side ;) Also, by leaving these bolts tight you should help keep your alignment in check.

Before I move on, let's talk about that sway-bar end link. The driver's side is easy and has plenty of access. However, the passenger side has a welded brake line and bracket in the way:

PA130011.JPG


Our solution was to remove the bottom of the link instead, this was a PITA as there is virtually no room there either!!!

PA130012.JPG


As we were putting it back together we figured out a better way. Save the tire-rod until just before you remove the upper strut bolt to remove the assembly. By this time everything will be loose enough that you can pull the assembly out toward you to give you more room to access the top end-link bolt. This would have saved us a lot of time and frustration!!

Now that everything is out of the car you can unbolt the remaining upper strut bolt to remove the spring. Once again, there are two central bolts on top of the strut mount. Some of you may be familiar with the typical three bolts that hold the strut to the strut-tower, this strut utilizes the central strut stud with an additional plate and bolt to hold the assembly to the strut tower. By undoing that first bolt (to remove it from the car) you will NOT be loosening the spring.

There is not much pressure on the spring and we didn't use spring compressors to remove or reinstall the spring:

PA130016.JPG


Now just put everything back in the way it came out ;)

The rear multi-link makes everything SUPER EASY! Do the rear suspension last so you will feel like superman with how quick you get it done.

Other than taking the wheels off, there is.... ONE, yes ONE bolt you have to remove to get the rear spring off:

diagram2.jpg


Be sure to use a jack under the control arm to hold the tension of the spring while you remove the bolt. Here is another angle showing where the bolt is with the jack lowering the control arm down:

diagram3.jpg


Once you lower the control arm, the spring just pulls out:

PA130019.JPG


Replace the spring with your new ones, jack the control arm back up, replace the bolt, repeat for the other side.

VIOLA, you are done.
 
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GTXgp

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Las Colinas (DFW), TX
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'12 Regal GS
The results are worth the effort.

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The ride is virtually identical in regular mode and a tad tighter in sport and GS. No suspension codes, etc.

I have measured 0.5" drop in the front and 1.25" in the rear, the rear sat high on mine so I am happy. It is sitting pretty level, but the front may settle a bit more over the next week so I will take another measurement and post an update if it does.
 

NYCB

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2011 Buick Regal turbo
Dam that looks great!! Big difference. That's what mine needs. Now to find out if it fits the turbo regals.

Nice job!!
 

caddycruiser

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Looks incredible!

I enjoy how my stock GS sits already on the 19" wheels, but for the next step in handling and look, that is about perfect. After previously lowering my G8 GT a similar amount and not liking it, not a mod for me...but what a look!
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BayouBuick

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Louisiana
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2012 Buick Regal GS
That looks incredible! I wish I had the mechanical knowledge and know how to pull this off myself like you did. Again, the car now looks fantastic!
 

xXCraigerzXx

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Damn bro...looks good...I'm obviously still waiting for Eibach to release theirs which by the way should be out by November'ish. I just got off the phone with them and they said they were looking to use a carry over kit from another model that would work with the turbo models, our GS's.
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NYCB

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2011 Buick Regal turbo
Damn bro...looks good...I'm obviously still waiting for Eibach to release theirs which by the way should be out by November'ish. I just got off the phone with them and they said they were looking to use a carry over kit from another model that would work with the turbo models, our GS's.

that's good news, can't wait.
 

GTXgp

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Las Colinas (DFW), TX
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'12 Regal GS
My God!!! That looks absolutely phenomenal!!! Here is my question. Do you think a GS on 19's would still have that stance? Oh, and thanks for taking the time to do such a detailed explanation.

I can't see why not. The 19" suspension is the same as the 20".

looks great-dare i ask how much the parts cost, including shipping and bribes, etc ;)
The springs were around $250 shipped. I felt that was a pretty good deal for international shipping, customs expenses, etc. Especially considering that domestically they run around $200, depending on the model sometimes more. Bribing my friends was not as expensive ;)

Thanks for the compliments everyone. I hope this thread makes it easier for anyone else wanting to tackle this job.

Adam
 

synolimit

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Akron OH
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2012 GS
hmmmmm... looks great and such a good price from what im used to ($375 springs or $1000-$2500 coilovers) but that work looks like it blows. i love our suspension but you cant beat a 10 minute tear down and install for a Macpherson. guess ill have to talk myself into this one day.
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olbob

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My Regal sets higher in back, so the car appears to slant forward. How about just installing springs in the rear. Do you think that would lower it too much??? Surely would be easier....
Bob
 

GTXgp

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Las Colinas (DFW), TX
Buick Ownership
'12 Regal GS
My Regal sets higher in back, so the car appears to slant forward. How about just installing springs in the rear. Do you think that would lower it too much??? Surely would be easier....
Bob

My guess is tere would be no wheel gap in the rear, but a wheel gap in the front which would look kind of off.

Exactly. As it sits now it is perfectly level... so if you only did the rear the front would be sitting ~0.5" too high.
 

purplexj

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90 ols 88 99 Buick Regal GS
I thought these cars were low enough . Looks like a much more expensive car now. Love these cars, especially yours.
 
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