Needs a jump to start

Nadia Bleu

New member
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Buick Ownership
Sorealmtv1
In September 2018 my 2012 Verano started dying every time I turned it off, I began having to jump it everytime I wanted to take it anywhere. Got the battery, alternator and starter tested and they all passed with flying colors. I then dropped it off at a shop, figuring something was draining the battery (faulty/lose wiring). However after a week in the shop they had no answers for me (yes, they checked all the connections). So I read a few forums and decided I'd see if a new battery would help. I thought all was good until 2 weeks ago, November 2018, it began to die once again. I replaced the battery again, twice now, and it fixed my problem for about a week. So if it's not my battery, alternator or starter what could it be???
 

KevinJ

Contributing Member
231
36
28
Ohio
Buick Ownership
2013 Verano Premium (2.0T, AT)
When the car refuses to start, is the battery truly drained and too weak to start the car?
Do interior lights, headlights, radio, power windows, etc work?
or
With the car in "On" mode and the engine not running, check the Volt reading in the DIC.
I believe it will show you the Volts the battery is currently producing.
It should be greater than 12, anything under 12 is a "weak" battery but still may start the car..
Once, the car is running the Volt readout is for the Volts the alternator is producing.

If the battery is above 11 or 12 volts, and accessories work, and the car won't start, then this is probably some sort of ignition component problem. Think starter, starter solenoid, or any other number of sensors or modules.

If the battery is being drained after just a short while and we know the battery is good since you have replaced it twice, then the car has a "phantom" battery drain. Somewhere a circuit is remaining "on" when the car is turned off. These can be a pain in the butt to track down.

An "old school" way of diagnosing this, is too hook up a voltmeter/circuit tester at the battery to get a reading for any current being drawn. There will always be some.... Now with the circuit tester still attached start pulling fuses one at a time at each fuse panel. If you pull a fuse on something that should already be "off" but you get a decrease in current being drawn, then that is a circuit that was still "on" until you pulled the fuse. You would hopefully see a fairly substantial change in the volt reading since the battery is being depleted quickly by it.

Good Luck and let us know how/if you get this resolved.
 

Nadia Bleu

New member
2
0
1
Buick Ownership
Sorealmtv1
When the car refuses to start, is the battery truly drained and too weak to start the car?
Do interior lights, headlights, radio, power windows, etc work?
or
With the car in "On" mode and the engine not running, check the Volt reading in the DIC.
I believe it will show you the Volts the battery is currently producing.
It should be greater than 12, anything under 12 is a "weak" battery but still may start the car..
Once, the car is running the Volt readout is for the Volts the alternator is producing.

If the battery is above 11 or 12 volts, and accessories work, and the car won't start, then this is probably some sort of ignition component problem. Think starter, starter solenoid, or any other number of sensors or modules.

If the battery is being drained after just a short while and we know the battery is good since you have replaced it twice, then the car has a "phantom" battery drain. Somewhere a circuit is remaining "on" when the car is turned off. These can be a pain in the butt to track down.

An "old school" way of diagnosing this, is too hook up a voltmeter/circuit tester at the battery to get a reading for any current being drawn. There will always be some.... Now with the circuit tester still attached start pulling fuses one at a time at each fuse panel. If you pull a fuse on something that should already be "off" but you get a decrease in current being drawn, then that is a circuit that was still "on" until you pulled the fuse. You would hopefully see a fairly substantial change in the volt reading since the battery is being depleted quickly by it.

Good Luck and let us know how/if you get this resolved.


When you first open the door the dome light switches on, but none of the dash will light up. Then after your first attempt to start the car all electrical features turn off. As if the last bit of juice was drained trying to start it. I'll get it jumped and it starts up right away everytime. But small things like my heated seat won't work
______________________________
 

Zeroboostbuick

Well-known member
1,040
246
63
S.W. Ontario Canada
Buick Ownership
2018 Regal Sportback - 2010 Yamaha R6 (track bike) Past cars: 92 LeSabre, 98 Regal, 02 GrandPrixGT
BCM or ignition switch can do this. When my ignition switch first started malfunctioning I could jump start the car and it would work. Some of the dash lights were dim. But eventually jump starting didn't work.

But more likely a drain from somewhere, or the Alternator connection or the module that regulates how much power goes from the alternator to the battery is bad.

Unlike older cars where the alternator is directly connected to the battery and when it's spinning it constantly charging,... my car (and most likely yours) has a way of dictating how much power (if any) the alternator sends to recharge the battery. It's either a module or the BCM or a computer.
 
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