No gas from tank to pump??

Getyousome777420

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1972 Skylark Custom
Bought a 72 skylark that had been sitting since 93. I wasn't getting fuel so I disconnected fuel line from tank to pump. It was dry with no gas. Is line gunked up? Bad fuel pump? Does fuel pump create vacuum to pull fuel from tank or is it just gravity fed? Was planning on shooting air from compressor through line to tank..?
 

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2007LucerneCXL

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7 years of sitting and not knowing what was done or how it was stored it's a multiple choice answer, add mileage and vehicle condition and it could be any or all of the above. The pump internals can be rotted out, the fuel line can be plugged and or rotted out, the pickup in the tank can be plugged, the tank can be rotted or slugged up. You can try a auxiliary fuel source to the pump if it's a point of just seeing it runs, but again it's been sitting the carburetor is probably in need of a rebuild or replacement.

Blowing the lines is one way to confirm they are open but away from the tank not towards as all the junk will be in the tank. But if it's original tank, lines and fuel pump they will more than likely all need to be replaced.
 

Getyousome777420

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1972 Skylark Custom
7 years of sitting and not knowing what was done or how it was stored it's a multiple choice answer, add mileage and vehicle condition and it could be any or all of the above. The pump internals can be rotted out, the fuel line can be plugged and or rotted out, the pickup in the tank can be plugged, the tank can be rotted or slugged up. You can try a auxiliary fuel source to the pump if it's a point of just seeing it runs, but again it's been sitting the carburetor is probably in need of a rebuild or replacement.

Blowing the lines is one way to confirm they are open but away from the tank not towards as all the junk will be in the tank. But if it's original tank, lines and fuel pump they will more than likely all need to be replaced.
7 years of sitting and not knowing what was done or how it was stored it's a multiple choice answer, add mileage and vehicle condition and it could be any or all of the above. The pump internals can be rotted out, the fuel line can be plugged and or rotted out, the pickup in the tank can be plugged, the tank can be rotted or slugged up. You can try a auxiliary fuel source to the pump if it's a point of just seeing it runs, but again it's been sitting the carburetor is probably in need of a rebuild or replacement.

Blowing the lines is one way to confirm they are open but away from the tank not towards as all the junk will be in the tank. But if it's original tank, lines and fuel pump they will more than likely all need to be replaced.
I was told it had been sitting in a shop or garage and condition reflects that. Engine was dirty but not filled with rust and bugs. Odometer is at 75k so assuming 175k. Its rough but solid. Lines look good to pump, no cracking and still flexible but who knows about line near tank. Your post was bit like listening to the dentist lol but thx for the good info. Hoping for least amount if work to get running. Do you know if can disconnect line on gas tank without removing tank? Thx again!
 

2007LucerneCXL

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I guess I've seen to many Roadkill episodes lol. You might be able to get to the lines on the tank on some of the older vehicles there was just enough room between the differential and tank top to get to them, on yours I couldn't say.

If the tank has a smell of a cross between turpentine and swamp water you may want to rig up a alternet line, plus check the fuel filter in the carburetor inlet and switch over to a inline if it hasn't been done just to see what may happening. If the fuel pump has been sitting dry or with bad gas the internals may be shot it's hard to say over a forum vs being on site. Good luck on getting your vehicle up and running.
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LARRY70GS

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There is an elaborate evaporative emission canister in front of the tank with several rubber hose connections. I hope you aren't trying to run the engine on old gasoline. That is a problem in of itself.

Yes, the fuel pump generates a vacuum that pulls fuel from the tank. Fuel pumps are cheap.

1972 BUICK SKYLARK 5.7L 350cid V8 Fuel Pump | RockAuto

I would replace it. Yes, blow out the lines. I would also drop the tank and check the fuel pick up. There is a sock that can get clogged.

That looks like a decent car.

Head over to V8buick.com That site is more old car specific for 60 and 70's Buicks.
 

Getyousome777420

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I guess I've seen to many Roadkill episodes lol. You might be able to get to the lines on the tank on some of the older vehicles there was just enough room between the differential and tank top to get to them, on yours I couldn't say.

If the tank has a smell of a cross between turpentine and swamp water you may want to rig up a alternet line, plus check the fuel filter in the carburetor inlet and switch over to a inline if it hasn't been done just to see what may happening. If the fuel pump has been sitting dry or with bad gas the internals may be shot it's hard to say over a forum vs being on site. Good luck on getting your vehicle up and running.
Haha.. I always get nervous watching roadkill lol. So I did get it running.. filled float bowl and guess that started getting gas moving. Started leaking from Fitting on hose into pump but tightened and was ok. Belts aren't put on right so didnt run it too long, just enough to test radiator, check for knocks, and see how temp was. Sounded good and did ok. Did open other cans of worms and on to new problems and questions. I guess I'll just start.. I added pictures to help me explain. Was gonna start new threads but seems like you guys on thread know your stuff so thought I'd start here first. Feel free to lead me in the direction. Appreciate the help. First question..
1. Time to get a manual.. think Haynes or Chilton's has an online version with animations and what not for a yearly subscription. Is it worth the price for older cars? Book manual better? Both? Any other manuals or information I should buy?

2. Wire on alternator connector on top was broken off.. got a replacement for skylark but think was for next two model years after mine but fit. Problem was wire colors were opposite (blue/black). I rewired it the same as it was but made me nervous splicing blue to black wire and vice versa. I tested blue with testing light and lit up bright. Question is if I'm looking at my alternator from front of car does blue/positive go on left side, black on right? (Pic showing connector below)

3. During oil change I found loose connector coming from wiring harness and hanging right by oil filter. Didn't see where it could go and couldn't think of anything close it could go to. Know what it's for? (Pics below, got one from above and below)

4. Belts look off.. thinking person I bought car on slapped it on just to see if it ran. Anywhere online i can find belt diagram for my car before i get chance to buy manuals?

5. Leads to next question.. theres some type of pump or something that doesn't have a belt and I haven't been able to figure out what it is. It's on the driver side of motor. Looks possibly like something to do with emissions.. Do I need it, what is it, what's it do?? (Pics below. I circled it in red)

6. Once i get some of that figured out it's on to some headaches I'm thinking but we'll see. Haven't started looking online at these problems but start here and if you know any place to get info. Brakes.. when first got car brakes pumped but didnt stop car. Now break pedal is to the floor. First step after checking fluid..?

Shifting.. when got car running tried shifting and shifted through all gears and it never went into any gear. Wasnt sure if linkage was connected or if theres something else I should also look for?

Again, I really appreciate it, thx! 20200813_221137.jpg 20200813_220316.jpg 20200812_200306.jpg 20200812_180848.jpg 20200813_221436.jpg 20200812_200306.jpg
 

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Getyousome777420

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1972 Skylark Custom
There is an elaborate evaporative emission canister in front of the tank with several rubber hose connections. I hope you aren't trying to run the engine on old gasoline. That is a problem in of itself.

Yes, the fuel pump generates a vacuum that pulls fuel from the tank. Fuel pumps are cheap.

1972 BUICK SKYLARK 5.7L 350cid V8 Fuel Pump | RockAuto

I would replace it. Yes, blow out the lines. I would also drop the tank and check the fuel pick up. There is a sock that can get clogged.

That looks like a decent car.

Head over to V8buick.com That site is more old car specific for 60 and 70's Buicks.
Thx Larry, was excited to get her. You got a sweet ride yourself! I've worked out a few issues and onto new ones.. love any info. Please feel free to read my last comment on thread of where I'm at. Really appreciate, thx again!
 

2007LucerneCXL

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Seeing the pictures consider getting a hard copy GM service manual, Ebay or other services, not sure how good the digital services are on older vehicles.

Part circle in red is the Air Pump part of the early emissions system. When they first came out most hot rod folks yank the belt off as it was believe to be taking power off the engine. Probably easier to remove and check that any of the connections are not open IMO as what has or hasn't been done is 6unknown.

Wiring harnesses look shot may consider getting a new replacement harnesses as it has a little of the Roadkill look for fixes. The electrics in this era vehicles are pretty easy, but if others have tried repairs you may be chasing gremlins and phantom problems. Not sure if you aftermarket gauges water temperature, oil pressure and amp but that may be some of extra wiring floating around.

Transmission fluid may be the problem, but not knowing if the linkage is attached. Not running it's pretty easy to look by putting it in Park see the location on the transmission and then put it in Low look again if it moves then it's looking at the transmission itself. Pan drop and filter fluid change possibly may take care of it, hard to tell over a forum.
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LARRY70GS

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First, don't waste your time on Haynes or Chilton manuals, there is no better source of information than the Factory Chassis Manual. There is no excuse for not getting one, it should be your very first purchase, it is that important. They are available used on Ebay, here's one,

1972 Buick Chassis Shop Service Manual All Series | eBay

You can get them new in reprint, or even on CD ROM, but I don't see the point, the Ebay ones are cheap comparatively.

I would wire the alternator plug the same. You can see the wire colors on the original damaged connector.

That connection at the oil filter goes to the oil pressure idiot light sender. It's above the oil filter screwed into the block just behind the timing cover parting line.

Belts are screwed up. The 1st (inner) groove on the crank pulley goes DIRECTLY to the P/S pump. The second groove (moving towards front) goes around the crank and fan pulleys to the A/C compressor. The 3rd groove goes from the crank to the fan pulley and outer alternator pulley. The outer most groove is for the pollution (air) pump.

Take your time and fix one thing at a time. The car looks like it was the victim of previous owners that didn't exactly know what they were doing.

Brakes going to the floor might be master cylinder or a leaky hose, or component in the system.

Check that the transmission linkage is hooked up and fluid level.

Last, get yourself over to V8buick.com and join.
 

Getyousome777420

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1972 Skylark Custom
Seeing the pictures consider getting a hard copy GM service manual, Ebay or other services, not sure how good the digital services are on older vehicles.

Part circle in red is the Air Pump part of the early emissions system. When they first came out most hot rod folks yank the belt off as it was believe to be taking power off the engine. Probably easier to remove and check that any of the connections are not open IMO as what has or hasn't been done is 6unknown.

Wiring harnesses look shot may consider getting a new replacement harnesses as it has a little of the Roadkill look for fixes. The electrics in this era vehicles are pretty easy, but if others have tried repairs you may be chasing gremlins and phantom problems. Not sure if you aftermarket gauges water temperature, oil pressure and amp but that may be some of extra wiring floating around.

Transmission fluid may be the problem, but not knowing if the linkage is attached. Not running it's pretty easy to look by putting it in Park see the location on the transmission and then put it in Low look again if it moves then it's looking at the transmission itself. Pan drop and filter fluid change possibly may take care of it, hard to tell over a forum.
I ended up finally getting shop manual from ebay. It'll be here soon so holding off till I have before jumping back in. Along with 100+ heat and wildfire smoke as thick as fog.. but will start looking at tranny then brakes after getting belts on correctly.

Was hoping to avoid wiring harness if possible, but part of me wouldn't mind having some wires more hidden and know everything is done right. But speaking of roadkill I recently watched the one where they made the rear engine truck that did wheelies.. I was laughing pretty damn hard. Great episode and something I'd love to do.

Couple questions though..
The air pump, can I remove the whole thing? Leave it? Hook back up?

Someone on a forum mentioned removing fuel filter from carb and install new inline filter. Do you agree? If so should I put before or after fuel pump or does it matter?

Thanks again for all the info, really appreciated! Look forward to getting manual and back under the hood.

Oh! And I did join the other forum awhile back.. good info on there too.
 

Getyousome777420

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Buick Ownership
1972 Skylark Custom
First, don't waste your time on Haynes or Chilton manuals, there is no better source of information than the Factory Chassis Manual. There is no excuse for not getting one, it should be your very first purchase, it is that important. They are available used on Ebay, here's one,

1972 Buick Chassis Shop Service Manual All Series | eBay

You can get them new in reprint, or even on CD ROM, but I don't see the point, the Ebay ones are cheap comparatively.

I would wire the alternator plug the same. You can see the wire colors on the original damaged connector.

That connection at the oil filter goes to the oil pressure idiot light sender. It's above the oil filter screwed into the block just behind the timing cover parting line.

Belts are screwed up. The 1st (inner) groove on the crank pulley goes DIRECTLY to the P/S pump. The second groove (moving towards front) goes around the crank and fan pulleys to the A/C compressor. The 3rd groove goes from the crank to the fan pulley and outer alternator pulley. The outer most groove is for the pollution (air) pump.

Take your time and fix one thing at a time. The car looks like it was the victim of previous owners that didn't exactly know what they were doing.

Brakes going to the floor might be master cylinder or a leaky hose, or component in the system.

Check that the transmission linkage is hooked up and fluid level.

Last, get yourself over to V8buick.com and join.
Thx for the great info! I have a manual from ebay on the way. Kinding waiting on that at the moment. I ended up wiring alternator same.. not sure why colors were switched.. maybe from different year. But plugged in and seems to be working, battery didn't drain so seems ok.

As far as the belts go, and will be easier for me to see in manual being more of a visual learner, since ac isnt hooked up do I need a shorter belt to skip that pulley? I'd eventually like to test and hopefully fix ac.

Should/can I remove air pump in your opinion? Hook it back up?

Also, someone on another forum mentioned removing fuel filter from carb and install new inline filter. Do you agree? If so should I put before or after fuel pump or does it matter?

Thanks again for all the great info, really appreciated!
 

LARRY70GS

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98 Riviera, 70 GS455 Stg1
The A/C belt only turns the A/C compressor. You can simply leave it off until you are ready. Power Steering and Alternator fan belt install is all you need. Yes, you can eliminate the air pump. When you get the chassis manual, read up on the system, and remove cap off any openings. Keep the components.

I would not try to remove the in carburetor fuel filter. Chances are the entire carburetor needs a rebuild with gaskets/accel pump that is ethanol resistant to run on pump gasoline. Removing the fuel filter entails using a line wrench. If you try it with open end wrenches, you will almost certainly round off the fittings, and/or crimp/twist the fuel line.
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2007LucerneCXL

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The Air pump is something of a gray area as it is more of a state and federal emissions. Depending on state inspection, if any, you may want to check locally if it's going to be a issue and go from there, save the parts as like anything else it may have value later on.

Fuel filter can be before or after the fuel pump, but most of that era would put it between the fuel pump and the carb inline so it was easy to get to. Clear ones were popular as you could see if it was getting clogged as the mechanical pumps would push just about anything out.

Stubby Bob only purpose is smiles per gallon LOL
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MelsRegal

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Larry probably could answer this but it appears to me you are missing the fan shroud, I assume it originally had one.
 
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