plug in backup camera?

j_siegel

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Ok, here are some videos of the screen in action. I've since corrected the color (the box has color correction/brightness and contrast settings.

Turning on when I shift into reverse:
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9y5u3JlvMlk[/ame]

Moving:
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Ecg0hs5WN4[/ame]

You can even look at the rear-view camera while driving by using a button I hid in the center console, but I did a stupid and wired the camera power to the reverse lights... Something to fix next week. As expected, the angle of the camera is a bit off - I'm just not sure there's a better option for a clean, no-drill install. Any license plate frame camera would require drilling.

I documented the install and when I get time will post it up. The gist is as follows:

0) Disconnect your battery (I didn't but should have)

1) Remove the driver's side license plate light using a flat bladed screwdriver, swap the bulb from the old fixture to the new camera (it's a twist lock), and pop the light in.

2) Remove the trim plate under the rear bumper and lift up the trunk tray. Cut a small hole in the large central grommet and slide the wiring through - no drilling needed! Some lube might be helpful here.

3) Remove the trim clips on the interior passenger side trunk trim, and pull down firmly. Then, use a splice clip to tap into the green and white striped wire (the reverse light wire). I used this lead as a +12V for my camera, but this only works if you only want the camera on in reverse

4) Route the reverse signal and video wires around the edge of the trunk and toward the rear seat (and a third wire for acc power, perhaps? I haven't figured out where I'm getting my constant power for the camera yet)

5) Tack the wires using temporary adhesive above the hinge, ensuring they won't get pinched

6) Using light pressure, slide the wires up under the interior plastic door sills all the way from the back seat to under the glovebox. The only tricky area is just behind the passenger seat - watch your fingers!

7) Remove dashboard trim
7a) Remove the center ash tray piece (I took the tray out here and drilled a hole for the button cable to pass through). Be careful - the clips here are plastic and delicate!
7b) Remove the dashboard trim on the passenger side by opening the glove box and pulling carefully buy firmly (again, don't want to break the clips) from the edge toward the center
7c) Remove the dash trim on the driver's side. This has a strong clip at the top. Pulling down and out helps a bit.
7d) Now the bolts are exposed! Unscrew the four bolts and remove the console CAREFULLY! I scratched my dash up here :( (FYI: Kiwi black shoe polish, in VERY LIGHT DOSES, will bring the color back to the dash and it's not noticeable at all)
7e) Undo the three wires connecting the LCD to the dash
7f) Unclip the LCD trim from the rest of the buttons

8) Now you're ready to modify the LCD! Undo all the screws holding the LCD in (two hex head and the rest small phillips), and holding the backing to the LCD itself.

9) Carefully! disconnect the 40 pin ribbon cable, insert the daughter board from the video module, and reconnect both 40 pin cables (pics will help here)

10) Mount the daughter board and close up the LCD frame, pulling the ribbon through the LCD bezel

11) Put the LCD back in the trim piece

12) Get a power tap - I used an "add a circuit" mini fuse pulling from the first accessory outlet, so it's on whenever the key is in and the car is turned on. I used a 2 amp fuse. The fuse box is located to the left of the driver's knee, and two small plastic clips hold the tray in.

13) Bring the wires from the fuse box to the center console. Laying on your back helps, and you can slide in from the side of the center console and then tuck

14) Do the same on the other side - bring the video and reverse cables to the center console

15) Splice the wires (reverse, +12V ACC and GND) to the harness for the video converter box

16) Hook up the video cable (50 pin ribbon). This goes behind the button plate of the radio (my cable was too short so I haven't routed it behind yet)

17) Set jumpers on the box - which inputs are you using/what resolution screen do you have?

18) Test it!

19) Put it all back together

It sounds worse than it is, promise! I'll see how it looks at night this evening.
 

j_siegel

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vt325xi, before you start taking apart your dash, make sure you have everything. The cameras on eBay will not work without a separate interface device. The LCD does not have an RCA input, only a GVIF/LVDS ribbon cable.
 

trevgtp

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2012 Buick Regal GS
any word on kits and other options? i really want a camera with the stock screen and it seems expensive, but worth it, but not that much considering how much camera options cost on new cars. i was wondering that if the new verano is coming stock with the camera, would a GM interface soon be available...have to check out my GM dealer soon...or somewhere else. thoughts? GM guys chime in?
______________________________
 

j_siegel

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The camera worked great for about a month and then the image started degrading; it wasn't the camera but the GVIF board. I don't want to distribute a crappy product, so there went that.

I did locate another supplier last week, but the cost is twice the first. For that reason alone, I haven't spent the money to test the kit out. I may get to it in August if they work with me on price (at the moment, we're talking $500 for the interface alone, not including the camera).
 

Best Auto Mats

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I had an email that showed a plug and play camera that used the factory harness. I'll need to find it again and see if it was for the Regal or just the LaCrosse.
 

Best Auto Mats

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I just got off the phone and there is nothing that is available for the Regal, only for the Enclaves or Lucernes with navigation. The rep said that it's impossible for plug and play with the way they are wired.
 
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