Problems with my 2000 Lesabre

i got my ecm online..give them your vin# and it comes flashed with lifetime warranty for around $110
 
Thanks for the reply, I am gonna try to fix the fuel issue first. I ordered the regulator, but since, I am losing faith that it is the regulator causing the issue. Yesterday I was driving the lesabre over to a friends house, to pick him up, when I was waiting, and the car was idling, I could hear very clearly alot of fluctuation from the fuel pump. I have never heard that in this car, but it was very clear what it was.
Can one get to the fuel pump through the trunk?
 
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Thanks for the reply, I am gonna try to fix the fuel issue first. I ordered the regulator, but since, I am losing faith that it is the regulator causing the issue. Yesterday I was driving the lesabre over to a friends house, to pick him up, when I was waiting, and the car was idling, I could hear very clearly alot of fluctuation from the fuel pump. I have never heard that in this car, but it was very clear what it was.
Can one get to the fuel pump through the trunk?

Check under the trunk carpet behind the rear seats for a access panel to the fuel pump.
 
I changed the regulator today, and im still running the same fuel pressure. With the car running, I pulled off the vacuume line, the pressure went up to 50psi, I hit the throttle, and the pressure dropped.
I have a new fuel filter, but it looks like the fuel line is gonna have to be changed also.
Anyway it looks like im gonna need a new fuel pump after all. So I will do the filter, when I do the pump. I just hope the new pump brings my gas guage back from the dead.
Thanks for all of your help.
 
That sucks.

But there is still a chance the fuel filter is clogged. The first fuel filter I ever changed was on a 92' LeSabre and I could not blow air through it.

When you buy a fuel pump, you can get them as a assembly with the fuel level float or just the pump and have to transfer the old float over to the new pump. So if you want your gas gauge to work, make sure you get the whole pump and float assembly.
99% of the time a bad fuel gauge is due to a worn out fuel float.
The float has sliding contacts that wear out over time.
 
Ohh yeah, just a little tip you probably already knew, but maybe someone else lurking this thread might find helpful.

Before replacing the fuel filter or fuel pump you have to relieve the fuel pressure.

Start the car and pull the fuel pump fuse/relay and let the car run dry and choke dead. Try to start the car again for good measure.
 
The threaded side of the fuel filter can be difficult to loosen. It helps to spray the area with penetrating oil a few days in advance and to use a flare nut wrench. One tip I learned years ago it to hold the fuel nut and turn the filter which has a large nut fitting on the end. Good Luck
 
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I already sprayed the nut with break free yesterday, but the gas line is very rusty where the filter is, so I really don't have too much faith things are gonna go as planned there, but who knows, it might break loose. Wisconsin is very hard on vehicles.
I was looking at fuel pumps on rock auto, and man...theres alot of them. I was looking at a Carter that seems to be desent, at least it has a few upgrades over oem. I was also looking at a Denso that is also supposed to be desent but more expensive. And then theres ACdelco, Bosch, Delphi, Spectra...etc. I seriously don't want to make the wrong choice.
 
I already sprayed the nut with break free yesterday, but the gas line is very rusty where the filter is, so I really don't have too much faith things are gonna go as planned there, but who knows, it might break loose. Wisconsin is very hard on vehicles.
I was looking at fuel pumps on rock auto, and man...theres alot of them. I was looking at a Carter that seems to be desent, at least it has a few upgrades over oem. I was also looking at a Denso that is also supposed to be desent but more expensive. And then theres ACdelco, Bosch, Delphi, Spectra...etc. I seriously don't want to make the wrong choice.


Don't know what the upgrades would be for Carter over OEM?

Personally I prefer AC Delco over cheap aftermarket parts.

I'm guessing it's your fuel filter causing you grief.
 
I already sprayed the nut with break free yesterday, but the gas line is very rusty where the filter is, so I really don't have too much faith things are gonna go as planned there, but who knows, it might break loose. Wisconsin is very hard on vehicles.
I was looking at fuel pumps on rock auto, and man...theres alot of them. I was looking at a Carter that seems to be desent, at least it has a few upgrades over oem. I was also looking at a Denso that is also supposed to be desent but more expensive. And then theres ACdelco, Bosch, Delphi, Spectra...etc. I seriously don't want to make the wrong choice.
Did you ever figure out the issue. My daughter's 2000 Lesabre is doing the same thing. It sputters after cold start when in reverse or drive. It's fine after it heats up. We bought the car 2 years ago and I replaced an aftermarket fuel pump to fix the gas gauge issue. I also went ahead and replaced the fuel filter. That was over a year ago. Recently I started throwing parts at the problem. The car is almost 24 years old so I figured it wouldn't hurt to replace them. I replaced the MAF, IAC and the Fuel pressure regulator. I also replaced the shrader valve on the fuel rail. Yesterday, I removed the MAF sensor and sprayed some throttle body cleaner in the Throttle Body. I also cleaned that little sensor attached to the big main air intake hose. Before replacing all that stuff, I sprayed a little bit of Carb Cleaner around areas of the vacuum lines. The engine didn't rev up or down anywhere. I'm going to change the shrader valve again today. Maybe I got a cheapo one and the seals are bad. I'm also going to inspect the hole it comes from. Maybe I left a small amount of broken gasket in there or something. If you can let me know if you ever figured out your issue, I would greatly appreciate it.
 
Did you ever figure out the issue. My daughter's 2000 Lesabre is doing the same thing. It sputters after cold start when in reverse or drive. It's fine after it heats up. We bought the car 2 years ago and I replaced an aftermarket fuel pump to fix the gas gauge issue. I also went ahead and replaced the fuel filter. That was over a year ago. Recently I started throwing parts at the problem. The car is almost 24 years old so I figured it wouldn't hurt to replace them. I replaced the MAF, IAC and the Fuel pressure regulator. I also replaced the shrader valve on the fuel rail. Yesterday, I removed the MAF sensor and sprayed some throttle body cleaner in the Throttle Body. I also cleaned that little sensor attached to the big main air intake hose. Before replacing all that stuff, I sprayed a little bit of Carb Cleaner around areas of the vacuum lines. The engine didn't rev up or down anywhere. I'm going to change the shrader valve again today. Maybe I got a cheapo one and the seals are bad. I'm also going to inspect the hole it comes from. Maybe I left a small amount of broken gasket in there or something. If you can let me know if you ever figured out your issue, I would greatly appreciate it.
You replied to a 5 year old thread. I suggest that you start your own.
 
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