Rear Shock Absorber Question

Well I had to pull the shock downward to initially install and pushed it back together today. Would this help add a minimal amount of air?

The ELC arm is there and okay. My mechanic said he "flipped" the arm so as not to add air? I looked and the arm elbow is pointing upward instead of down. I don't know how he "flipped" it. His thinking is this would stop air from being pumped in and maybe some of the air would work its way out to a more agreeable level but the compressor now runs 90% of the time (before I took out CB#6). I'm going to see if I can "flip" the arm down tomorrow and reinstall CB#6 and see if the proper amount of air goes in. If not I can do what I did today and live with a no air air-shock.

I honestly think my left rear tire hit a pothole pulling out of a parking lot because the car undercarriage bottomed. I read where someone else had this issue. My mechanic said there was no damage to any suspension parts and he thinks the ELC module is working based on exhausting the air.

Many thanks wondergirl for additional thoughts!
the install depress isnt ideal(Best to actuate the shock by hand a few times, but this is just an ideal thing, not likely affecting anything rn)unknown (1).webp
See the spot on the control arm its mounted? Thats what the link needs to be on. if its just pointed up somewhere, its never going to know the car is at level since it thinks its bottomed out
 
Well I had to pull the shock downward to initially install and pushed it back together today. Would this help add a minimal amount of air?

The ELC arm is there and okay. My mechanic said he "flipped" the arm so as not to add air? I looked and the arm elbow is pointing upward instead of down. I don't know how he "flipped" it. His thinking is this would stop air from being pumped in and maybe some of the air would work its way out to a more agreeable level but the compressor now runs 90% of the time (before I took out CB#6). I'm going to see if I can "flip" the arm down tomorrow and reinstall CB#6 and see if the proper amount of air goes in. If not I can do what I did today and live with a no air air-shock.

I honestly think my left rear tire hit a pothole pulling out of a parking lot because the car undercarriage bottomed. I read where someone else had this issue. My mechanic said there was no damage to any suspension parts and he thinks the ELC module is working based on exhausting the air.

Many thanks wondergirl for additional thoughts!
there is no ELC Module, there is a sensor(which does most of the electrical decisions on the system) and a other modules which handles the electronic side of things(diagnostic)
Also your mechanic was rude , never looked for codes... C for Chassis codes.
 
So…. If you ever had to replace a line…. Say from a plastic one rubbed through on a metal part of the car… what would be the solution !?
 
So…. If you ever had to replace a line…. Say from a plastic one rubbed through on a metal part of the car… what would be the solution !?
There is a kit sold by ..I forget name it copsny, it’s like an Ak29 or something (Monroe?) conversion kit for manual air fill. It comes with adapters and new fittings for the shocks and line, you could use one to splice in before the damage area, and run a straight shot to the shock with a new spring clip and cap for the shock to minimize splices. Then properly support and tie down the line to prevent reoccurrence
 
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So…. If you ever had to replace a line…. Say from a plastic one rubbed through on a metal part of the car… what would be the solution !?
Good memory , me(on that part number) if you only need to repair one side this kit will work just protect the fill valve or fill it with epoxy to limit a leak point in the future. If you wanna do both you need compression fittings or the right diameter push connect fittings. Push connects can take the upper 20s psi it should maximally get to for most at fully loaded no issue


If this is because of your swap of the subframe can you show us the area it rubbed with your 2006-2011 subframe
 

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