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Buick Lucerne Forum
Rescuing a 2007 Lucerne CXS with a Northstar
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<blockquote data-quote="TT99C5" data-source="post: 374966" data-attributes="member: 63263"><p>Well folks.....this one is getting close to wrapping up, at least on the mechanical side. Why is that you ask? Well.......</p><p></p><p>This is why:</p><p>[MEDIA=youtube]gnaSAPSlEyM[/MEDIA]</p><p></p><p>That said, today was a success.</p><p></p><p>The C0035 I took care of but it was fun to track down. I was checking resistance across the body harness terminals and finally found that when I wiggled it, my resistance changed drastically. So I started at the connector..........</p><p></p><p>This is FINELY stranded wire. Super thin, delicate stuff. Thought I had a break here, but I didn't. </p><p>[ATTACH=full]28298[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Fortunately, I keep a large stock of weatherpack connectors, terminals, and seals on hand along with proper crimpers. So I cut the harness back and repinned the connector. </p><p>[ATTACH=full]28299[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Checked back into it and still had a C0035. Checked resistance and AC voltage from the hub end of the connector, and it was working fine (hub is fairly new.......almost no corrosion on it). So pulled the loom back and found two splices, one on each wire, about where it turns under the body. No pics unfortunately.</p><p></p><p>So I cut off the entire harness behind those splices. They were heavy heat shrink with glue. I took the ground signal one and opened it up (since I was getting good voltage on the other, 4.88v KOEO) and found a clean break right in the center. Found another break in the same wire, internal, no external indication of damage, just behind where the thick outer cover starts.</p><p></p><p>Took some new 18 gauge stranded wire, created a new harness, pinned the connector and soldered it for good measure, and hooked it back into the body harness via some of those new heat shrink connectors that have the solder in them (those are AWESOME and super handy). Got Tech2Win back out and.......still had the code. CRAP. Cleared it for good measure and......it didn't come back! Fired the car up and ZERO fault indicators! The resistors I put on to the end of the harness for the shocks (10w 2 Ohm -- <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077BLLSJQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1">Amazon.com: LM YN 10 Watt 2 Ohm 5% Wirewound Resistor Electronic Aluminium Shell Resistor Gold for Inverter LED Lights Frequency Divider Servo Industry Industrial Control 2-Pcs: Home Audio & Theater</a>) worked like a champ. Stabilitrak is happy, ABS is happy, no CEL. </p><p></p><p>That VXDiag VCX Nano with the Tech2Win software is worth it's weight in gold. Made diagnosing this stuff so much easier. </p><p></p><p>So now........had to stop short today because the kids were getting hungry. Car is back on the ground, all plastics back on it, ready for a drive tomorrow. After that........bring it home (it's sitting outside unfortunately, but I only have a 3 car garage and it's full), get it registered, put a few miles on it to ensure it's copacetic, then start looking into paint. </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]28300[/ATTACH] </p><p></p><p>A side project is going to be stripping the wheels down and refinishing those. It won't be a high end job, but it'll be miles better than the finish they currently have.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="TT99C5, post: 374966, member: 63263"] Well folks.....this one is getting close to wrapping up, at least on the mechanical side. Why is that you ask? Well....... This is why: [MEDIA=youtube]gnaSAPSlEyM[/MEDIA] That said, today was a success. The C0035 I took care of but it was fun to track down. I was checking resistance across the body harness terminals and finally found that when I wiggled it, my resistance changed drastically. So I started at the connector.......... This is FINELY stranded wire. Super thin, delicate stuff. Thought I had a break here, but I didn't. [ATTACH type="full"]28298[/ATTACH] Fortunately, I keep a large stock of weatherpack connectors, terminals, and seals on hand along with proper crimpers. So I cut the harness back and repinned the connector. [ATTACH type="full"]28299[/ATTACH] Checked back into it and still had a C0035. Checked resistance and AC voltage from the hub end of the connector, and it was working fine (hub is fairly new.......almost no corrosion on it). So pulled the loom back and found two splices, one on each wire, about where it turns under the body. No pics unfortunately. So I cut off the entire harness behind those splices. They were heavy heat shrink with glue. I took the ground signal one and opened it up (since I was getting good voltage on the other, 4.88v KOEO) and found a clean break right in the center. Found another break in the same wire, internal, no external indication of damage, just behind where the thick outer cover starts. Took some new 18 gauge stranded wire, created a new harness, pinned the connector and soldered it for good measure, and hooked it back into the body harness via some of those new heat shrink connectors that have the solder in them (those are AWESOME and super handy). Got Tech2Win back out and.......still had the code. CRAP. Cleared it for good measure and......it didn't come back! Fired the car up and ZERO fault indicators! The resistors I put on to the end of the harness for the shocks (10w 2 Ohm -- [URL="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077BLLSJQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1"]Amazon.com: LM YN 10 Watt 2 Ohm 5% Wirewound Resistor Electronic Aluminium Shell Resistor Gold for Inverter LED Lights Frequency Divider Servo Industry Industrial Control 2-Pcs: Home Audio & Theater[/URL]) worked like a champ. Stabilitrak is happy, ABS is happy, no CEL. That VXDiag VCX Nano with the Tech2Win software is worth it's weight in gold. Made diagnosing this stuff so much easier. So now........had to stop short today because the kids were getting hungry. Car is back on the ground, all plastics back on it, ready for a drive tomorrow. After that........bring it home (it's sitting outside unfortunately, but I only have a 3 car garage and it's full), get it registered, put a few miles on it to ensure it's copacetic, then start looking into paint. [ATTACH type="full"]28300[/ATTACH] A side project is going to be stripping the wheels down and refinishing those. It won't be a high end job, but it'll be miles better than the finish they currently have. [/QUOTE]
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Buick Lucerne Forum
Rescuing a 2007 Lucerne CXS with a Northstar
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