Resetting the computer ECM PCM on a 93 PA SC.

Buickguy123

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I know just disconnecting the negative battery terminal can seem to clear codes. Is there a better way? I used a Scotty Kilmer method yesterday. Remove negative terminal turn on lights for 5 minutes. Reconnect terminal start car put in neutral 5 minutes then shift to low foot on brake for 5 minutes. Then drive car for 20 minutes at speed above 35. The service engine light was totally off during all this until about 2 minutes on highway above 35. Came on and off for another 10 minutes. Then drove car 2 hours later and SE light stayed solid until home last night. Will check codes paper clip method. Any thoughts thanks!
 

2007LucerneCXL

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It's not clear on what you are trying to do. If the car has a problem clearing the code doesn't remove the problem it will continue to show up. If the replacement part isn't the correct solution or if it's a bad part the CEL will come back on.
 

Buickguy123

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It's not clear on what you are trying to do. If the car has a problem clearing the code doesn't remove the problem it will continue to show up. If the replacement part isn't the correct solution or if it's a bad part the CEL will come back on.
I want to clear the codes so that they will reappear a second time to verify the potential issues? There were 4 codes the 1st time. Disconnected battery. Second time only 1 code. The internet gives different methods for clearing codes. Understand? 2007 Lucerne? I test drove a 2006 2007 and 2008 Lucerne the last few months. LOL I think the drivet's seat was wider on the 06 than the 07 08 LOL.
 

MelsRegal

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You clear codes with a scan tool.
What you did is cause the ECM to have to go through a drive cycle.
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HotZ28

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There are plenty of scanners out there that are OBDI-OBD11 capable. I have two Matco's, and an Actron 9690, all of which are capable of reading/clearing codes on both versions.
 

Buickguy123

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I know just disconnecting the negative battery terminal can seem to clear codes. Is there a better way? I used a Scotty Kilmer method yesterday. Remove negative terminal turn on lights for 5 minutes. Reconnect terminal start car put in neutral 5 minutes then shift to low foot on brake for 5 minutes. Then drive car for 20 minutes at speed above 35. The service engine light was totally off during all this until about 2 minutes on highway above 35. Came on and off for another 10 minutes. Then drove car 2 hours later and SE light stayed solid until home last night. Will check codes paper clip method. Any thoughts thanks!
I forgot to mention that when checking the codes via the paper clip method the two fans blades did not come on like they normally do. Really makes me wonder what these guys did?
 

BuickGirlFromMars

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Your removing the battery cable cleared your codes. It doesnt even take 5 minutes, but if you want to be thorough i guess.
@Buickguy123 the fans should come on when you jumb A and B on the ALDL connector, assuming you have two fans. I know on my 1990 one fan went on, but it only had one fan.

Youre CEL coming on and off. did it flash or did it just light, then go off, then eventually came back on solid? Some issues if they log more than once they will light constant, some issues if they clear up themselves the light will go off.
On a 93, youre going to be looking at sensors with intermittent loss of signals, misfires, or an emissions component that failed once its readiness test was run, or more than one issue.
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Buickguy123

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Your removing the battery cable cleared your codes. It doesnt even take 5 minutes, but if you want to be thorough i guess.
@Buickguy123 the fans should come on when you jumb A and B on the ALDL connector, assuming you have two fans. I know on my 1990 one fan went on, but it only had one fan.

Youre CEL coming on and off. did it flash or did it just light, then go off, then eventually came back on solid? Some issues if they log more than once they will light constant, some issues if they clear up themselves the light will go off.
On a 93, youre going to be looking at sensors with intermittent loss of signals, misfires, or an emissions component that failed once its readiness test was run, or more than one issue.
Yes! The fans have always came on when connecting the paper clip. These times the fans have not run. The first time CEL was flashing and was intermittent. Off then on. Two days ago. Last night and a few minutes ago solid on.
 

BuickGirlFromMars

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Flashing means misfire actively happening. I would suspect ignition control module or coil(s) check plug wires and spark plugs
 

Buickguy123

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Flashing means misfire actively happening. I would suspect ignition control module or coil(s) check plug wires and spark plugs
It flashed a few times then went out for quite a while and now is on solid. I do not sense any misfire. It is running solid. Idle is a little rough but at 60 on the highway it is fine. Accelerates well. It has The SC.The mechanics who did the job disgust me however. I will replace a few things and go somewhere else if need be? I fix things when I can. Put those 4 resistors to fix my odometer in the 2000 Century this summer. Waiting for a new rear window motor part. Some things I can do. I have had generally bad experiences with car shops and their mechanics. Wanna hear about my $511 fuel filter? If your car starts running poorly. Will not start. Misfired? Replace your $12 fuel filter. That may be an issue. LOL
 

Sunbeam

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Disconnecting the battery is the fastest way w/o a scan tool. Does the ECM show 12 (diag mode) using paper clip?
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BuickGirlFromMars

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It flashed a few times then went out for quite a while and now is on solid. I do not sense any misfire. It is running solid. Idle is a little rough but at 60 on the highway it is fine. Accelerates well. It has The SC.The mechanics who did the job disgust me however. I will replace a few things and go somewhere else if need be? I fix things when I can. Put those 4 resistors to fix my odometer in the 2000 Century this summer. Waiting for a new rear window motor part. Some things I can do. I have had generally bad experiences with car shops and their mechanics. Wanna hear about my $511 fuel filter? If your car starts running poorly. Will not start. Misfired? Replace your $12 fuel filter. That may be an issue. LOL
misfire at very specific load or rpm ranges can be damn near un noticeable. my misfire under load at high speed did not cause any NVH that I could perceive. But it misfired. Remember, a misfire can be many different scenarios. incorrect order, before it should, after it should, TDC(rip), etc. so do not take that as you did not have misfires. if your car misfired, a code will be stored.

I get it with mechanics. a thread here somewhere chronicles my BS with a shop that did brake lines. LITERALLY the only non tires/alignment ive EVER brought to a shop, the guy who did it DID NOT put rear proportion valves back in when he replaced my lines, so my rear brakes are too strong.
He routed them like a dumb ass, damn near put kinks in the lines
He didnt tighten down the caliper bolts on 3 of 4 calipers, a rear caliper came ondone and destroyed my rotor, pads, and bent my dust shield to hell and back. he didnt do rear hoses(Just front) despite requesting all 4. parking brake adjustment for some reason was toyed with.
he didnt put screws back in for my EBTCM, he left crap unbolted in engine bay. Heres my dust shield,

fun fact, a 1999 rear caliper bracket bolts(Bracket to control arm) are GM Only for the proper bolt, i did go hardware store but i do eventually need to change. they are stainless, not 10.9.liable to snap some day. All but 1 bolt is gouged up and stuff.
december 2019, learned my lesson. dont let a guy who looks like he introduces himself by trying to prove something to you touch your car

only one nimrod is allowed to touch my car and make mistakes and thats me!
 

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BuickGirlFromMars

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1999 Buick Park Avenue Ultra (Supercharged)
can you send a pic of your coil pack/module as well. my middle coil pack, the bolt to hold it down, had rusted underneath where it makes contact and was my misfire under load
cleaning the connection solved it but i put new coils packs on when i fixed the issue kept the original for spare
 

Buickguy123

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misfire at very specific load or rpm ranges can be damn near un noticeable. my misfire under load at high speed did not cause any NVH that I could perceive. But it misfired. Remember, a misfire can be many different scenarios. incorrect order, before it should, after it should, TDC(rip), etc. so do not take that as you did not have misfires. if your car misfired, a code will be stored.

I get it with mechanics. a thread here somewhere chronicles my BS with a shop that did brake lines. LITERALLY the only non tires/alignment ive EVER brought to a shop, the guy who did it DID NOT put rear proportion valves back in when he replaced my lines, so my rear brakes are too strong.
He routed them like a dumb ass, damn near put kinks in the lines
He didnt tighten down the caliper bolts on 3 of 4 calipers, a rear caliper came ondone and destroyed my rotor, pads, and bent my dust shield to hell and back. he didnt do rear hoses(Just front) despite requesting all 4. parking brake adjustment for some reason was toyed with.
he didnt put screws back in for my EBTCM, he left crap unbolted in engine bay. Heres my dust shield,

fun fact, a 1999 rear caliper bracket bolts(Bracket to control arm) are GM Only for the proper bolt, i did go hardware store but i do eventually need to change. they are stainless, not 10.9.liable to snap some day. All but 1 bolt is gouged up and stuff.
december 2019, learned my lesson. dont let a guy who looks like he introduces himself by trying to prove something to you touch your car

only one nimrod is allowed to touch my car and make mistakes and thats me!
I actually ended up disconnecting the negative battery terminal then turned the lights switch ON and left it for 24 hours and the Service Engine Light has not come back on and this was a few weeks ago since. It is running pretty good!
______________________________
 

Buickguy123

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119
14
18
Buick Ownership
Buick
misfire at very specific load or rpm ranges can be damn near un noticeable. my misfire under load at high speed did not cause any NVH that I could perceive. But it misfired. Remember, a misfire can be many different scenarios. incorrect order, before it should, after it should, TDC(rip), etc. so do not take that as you did not have misfires. if your car misfired, a code will be stored.

I get it with mechanics. a thread here somewhere chronicles my BS with a shop that did brake lines. LITERALLY the only non tires/alignment ive EVER brought to a shop, the guy who did it DID NOT put rear proportion valves back in when he replaced my lines, so my rear brakes are too strong.
He routed them like a dumb ass, damn near put kinks in the lines
He didnt tighten down the caliper bolts on 3 of 4 calipers, a rear caliper came ondone and destroyed my rotor, pads, and bent my dust shield to hell and back. he didnt do rear hoses(Just front) despite requesting all 4. parking brake adjustment for some reason was toyed with.
he didnt put screws back in for my EBTCM, he left crap unbolted in engine bay. Heres my dust shield,

fun fact, a 1999 rear caliper bracket bolts(Bracket to control arm) are GM Only for the proper bolt, i did go hardware store but i do eventually need to change. they are stainless, not 10.9.liable to snap some day. All but 1 bolt is gouged up and stuff.
december 2019, learned my lesson. dont let a guy who looks like he introduces himself by trying to prove something to you touch your car

only one nimrod is allowed to touch my car and make mistakes and thats me!
I hear you brother. Saving money is never a bad thing but then you spend good money and they do not fix it right? So, in a sense it is not the money at times but then they screw it up. Oh well.
 
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