Not as a big a deal as you'd think. My race car had the holes enlarged so I could shift the knuckles out and adjust my camber. Top hole was 1/32" bigger and bottom hole was actual slotted in an arc. Never once shifted, even on a 90mph right hand turn at about 1.15g.
As long as they are tight, the clamp load is in the bolt and nut pinching the strut to the knuckle. The splines are for ease of installation, holding the bolt from spinning as you start the nut from the other side. I always use a breaker bar on the back side and my impact on the front for removal, then the same for reinstall to snug, then torque to spec.
Yeah I just read after hours and hours of research that same thing. Lol.
But my issue came from the fact they were most definitely not that tight and the force wasnt on the clamp it was on the shankthey didnt vibrate loose.. but they werent tight..i think i did an oopsie when i did my breaks lol. Now that i think of it, I think i ran them down with 3/8 impact and was waiting on my big battery to charge... oh well. Since the bolts are... not pretty im thinking i might try to find new hardware.... they are about 12 dollars a bolt for the OE and that is after hoop jumping to find them.
I might try a 12.9 hardness mcmaster hunt. I know the specs of the OE bolt, m16x2.00xsomelongnumberlike80
Quite a drive.
And I dont have that much money LOL
I mean, with the body damage the car has got with rust, it not being pristine(im gonna keep it from getting worse) and not being later year(2003-2005), I think im gonna look for another one that is in better cosmetic shape and save up and get *the* park avenue. It could have a shot suspension, because I could transfer parts. I more or less just need my aurora going and then i can afford to not have it on the road