Swapping factory speakers + custom sub box

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He played around with the Axxess harness for a good 45min before he gave up saying it feels like he might break something if he forces it in any further.
Yeah, it was never going to fit without modifying the plug to allow the tab to slide in. I think I may have pushed the tab out of place while trying to force it in, but it is working as is for me. I feel a little better the pros couldn't get it to work also, but also disappointed that there isn't a better solution.

Had to purchase 2 things of speed wire ($60 total 😑) and he just wired it up old school.
I used similar wiring(18/9) to get the line out/speaker wires to the trunk and back(previous post pictures). I still need to figure out where the center channel is on the grey plug(wire tap terminals arrived today).
 

Irock1985

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Well it took a full 8 hours... 1 hour planning and unboxing and 7 hours work for the 2 guys. Definitely could have been done faster imo but hey they had to figure out few things on the way. Luckily like I said before that my amps are fairly small so they both fit on this panel. They did reinforce the panel with some wood (plywood?) behind.

Sadly this was the installers first time installing my Audio Control amp and he definitely didn't know how to set it up properly. Also he had the crossovers jacked. But thankfully I know and tuned it up myself this morning. Now that it's tuned it's very nice and clean and I I'd be hard pressed to turn it past half way now.... Until I want to show off lol!

Don't mind my 7 year old subs, box and sub amp lol... I almost want to get the Audio Control sub amp but that's expensive for a basically aesthetic reasons 🤷‍♂️
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Only slightly sketchy part is the ground... I think he could have cleaned the paint more.... But it's working just fine so 🤷‍♂️
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Progress is progress. Happy you got it worked out and have tunes.

A car audio professional friend has suggested my 1st choice, the JL Fix-82. He is pulling some strings in an effort to get the Bose amp pin out diagram. He is very confident on being able to get a clean, usable signal after the amp. Much cheaper solution, so it seems like a better starting point.
 

Irock1985

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Progress is progress. Happy you got it worked out and have tunes.

A car audio professional friend has suggested my 1st choice, the JL Fix-82. He is pulling some strings in an effort to get the Bose amp pin out diagram. He is very confident on being able to get a clean, usable signal after the amp. Much cheaper solution, so it seems like a better starting point.
The guy at Best Buy said that he saw a schematic for my car but for the amp version and he said that the amp is in the passenger rear so being back there it should be pretty easy to tap into. And if that's the case why tap in after the amp instead of before and bypassing it all together?
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The guy at Best Buy said that he saw a schematic for my car but for the amp version and he said that the amp is in the passenger rear so being back there it should be pretty easy to tap into. And if that's the case why tap in after the amp instead of before and bypassing it all together?
The FiX82 is designed to capture the signal after the amp, hi level output.
 

Irock1985

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The FiX82 is designed to capture the signal after the amp, hi level output.
The signal before the amp would also be high level from the head unit tough right? Just not as high which would be less stress on the FiX 😉
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Without a wiring diagram, no real way to tell. Don't want to just start probing wires, which can cause bad things to happen. I'm trying to be patient and let some of the different sources I've reached out to get information relayed back to me so I can make an informed decision.

I thought I remember seeing someone put a link up to a website where you could pay to get access to the GM Service manuals. I may consider that route shortly. I really wish Helm would publish the manuals already.
 

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@Irock1985 - Did they use speaker harness adapters? I am trying to find the correct part, but Crutchfield has no compatible parts, and when I use Amazon "parts for your car", it lists a few different adapters and then says 'incompatible' when clicking the part.
 

Irock1985

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@Irock1985 - Did they use speaker harness adapters? I am trying to find the correct part, but Crutchfield has no compatible parts, and when I use Amazon "parts for your car", it lists a few different adapters and then says 'incompatible' when clicking the part.
You mean these?
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Thanks for confirming @JayK42, I ordered a set(4).

I also have some progress(I know it's taking some time):

I ran the power wire, and noticed there is a hole in the firewall that would be big enough for 4awg wire(w/ small grommet?), but I bought some Scosche 4awg firewall grommets and will need to widen the hole(7/8"). The other side of the firewall hole will(may just use silicone)be hard to get to though. I also ran the bass level control wire for the AudioControl LOC.

If anyone wants any tips on getting the panels out of the way, I'd be glad to help as I've done both sides now.

20190705_111006.jpg20190705_103714.jpg20190705_111325.jpg20190705_111417.jpg
 

Irock1985

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Thanks for confirming @JayK42, I ordered a set(4).

I also have some progress(I know it's taking some time):

I ran the power wire, and noticed there is a hole in the firewall that would be big enough for 4awg wire(w/ small grommet?), but I bought some Scosche 4awg firewall grommets and will need to widen the hole(7/8"). The other side of the firewall hole will(may just use silicone)be hard to get to though. I also ran the bass level control wire for the AudioControl LOC.
My installer cut a hole here and pushed it through
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I put my bass knob dead center under the volume knob since there's that nice ledge right underneath
 

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My installer cut a hole here and pushed it through
Looking at this picture again(and the fact you mentioned 'cut'), it looks like this area is one big grommet(I will double check).
I put my bass knob dead center under the volume knob since there's that nice ledge right underneath
I haven't 100% decided on the bass knob location, but I like to keep it 'stealth'.
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Irock1985

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Looking at this picture again(and the fact you mentioned 'cut'), it looks like this area is one big grommet(I will double check).
Yeah it is... 1 huge grommet

I haven't 100% decided on the bass knob location, but I like to keep it 'stealth'.
Initially he was taking about putting it where the unused buttons are in front of the shifter but we ran out of time and I wasn't going back just for that. With the lines and. Slopes there's not to many good stealth places to put (mine at least which isn't the smallest) it that's also easy to reach on the fly
 

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Sent an email back to NavTV and got the following response back.

Just checking back on the audio interface. I forgot to add that the RPO code for the Infotainment system is IOT.
John


Hi John,

It's still an active project, but we're not there yet.

This new system is radically different from the old one, so we're not just modifying the M-650, but creating a new module from the ground up.

Thanks,
Tony


Haven't heard back from anyone else.
 

Irock1985

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Sent an email back to NavTV and got the following response back.

Just checking back on the audio interface. I forgot to add that the RPO code for the Infotainment system is IOT.
John


Hi John,

It's still an active project, but we're not there yet.

This new system is radically different from the old one, so we're not just modifying the M-650, but creating a new module from the ground up.

Thanks,
Tony


Haven't heard back from anyone else.
To me it seems like it would be easy to see what the signal is doing for anyone who had an oscilloscope.. I really don't understand what take so long for these people to come out with harnesses it seems like the simplest thing for any business with basic capabilities.
 
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