• Hint: Use a descriptive title for your new message
    If you're looking for help and want to draw people in who can assist you, use a descriptive subject title when posting your message. In other words, "2008 LaCrosse" isn't going to indicate to anybody that you need help. However, "Need help with my 2008 LaCrosse" will. Be as descriptive as you can. Please use common sense... This message can be closed by clicking the X in the top right corner.

Swapping factory speakers + custom sub box

Mattman

New member
3
5
3
Buick Ownership
Regal Sportback
Well for what it's worth, I went to a Kenwood Excelon system, with a DSP, X802-5 amp, XP184C components in front and XR-1800 coaxials in the rear doors. I'm still looking for a sub, but I'm very happy with the sound quality and volume. I like to ride with the windows down and sunroof open using my phone on USB, volume was needed from factory non Bose system.
 

6APPEAL

Member
71
20
8
Deep South
Buick Ownership
2019 Regal TourX 1987 Grand National
Well for what it's worth, I went to a Kenwood Excelon system, with a DSP, X802-5 amp, XP184C components in front and XR-1800 coaxials in the rear doors. I'm still looking for a sub, but I'm very happy with the sound quality and volume. I like to ride with the windows down and sunroof open using my phone on USB, volume was needed from factory non Bose system.
Kenwood does not have a stand alone DSP, so I'm curious about the DSP you are using and the interface to the DSP from the Infotainment system. Also surprised you were able to get a 7" woofer in the doors.
 

Irock1985

Active member
187
43
28
Buick Ownership
2018 Buick Regal
Kenwood does not have a stand alone DSP, so I'm curious about the DSP you are using and the interface to the DSP from the Infotainment system. Also surprised you were able to get a 7" woofer in the doors.
Yeah same here.... I'd like to see a picture of that.
Well for what it's worth, I went to a Kenwood Excelon system, with a DSP, X802-5 amp, XP184C components in front and XR-1800 coaxials in the rear doors. I'm still looking for a sub, but I'm very happy with the sound quality and volume. I like to ride with the windows down and sunroof open using my phone on USB, volume was needed from factory non Bose system.
Did you use basic speaker adapter or did they custom fit something? Also how is mid bass?

At $100 per speaker they better sound good lol
 

6APPEAL

Member
71
20
8
Deep South
Buick Ownership
2019 Regal TourX 1987 Grand National
I bit the bullet and ordered the LLJ Customs harness. Guess I need to start doing some sound deadening. Pulling stuff apart will also give me an idea of how to run my wiring. Need to figure out if it is worth the time and trouble to attempt to run my own wire into the front doors. I've checked the GM Part Direct website and found there is a molex connector which will make running wire stupid tough. Also, sucks that I have to look at the parts/diagrams for a 2018 TourX since the 2019 shows basically nothing.

This is not going to be a short or easy process since I'm not sure if I want to tackle it all at once or spread it out over several months or farm it out meaning $$$. I may have to wait for the weather to cool off some before I attempt anything. Still have some pieces to buy based on decisions, such as sub(s).
______________________________
 

Irock1985

Active member
187
43
28
Buick Ownership
2018 Buick Regal
I bit the bullet and ordered the LLJ Customs harness. Guess I need to start doing some sound deadening. Pulling stuff apart will also give me an idea of how to run my wiring. Need to figure out if it is worth the time and trouble to attempt to run my own wire into the front doors. I've checked the GM Part Direct website and found there is a molex connector which will make running wire stupid tough. Also, sucks that I have to look at the parts/diagrams for a 2018 TourX since the 2019 shows basically nothing.

This is not going to be a short or easy process since I'm not sure if I want to tackle it all at once or spread it out over several months or farm it out meaning $$$. I may have to wait for the weather to cool off some before I attempt anything. Still have some pieces to buy based on decisions, such as sub(s).
From what I remember there's plenty of room to run wires front to back (in the Sportback at least they have nice channels to run wires in).

I didn't swap my factory wiring so I'm not sure about the doors. If you do take pictures 😉.

But...... I assume you ordered a "loopback" harness and if so it would be partly wasted if you run new wires to the doors essentially defeating the loopback 🤷‍♂️
 

6APPEAL

Member
71
20
8
Deep South
Buick Ownership
2019 Regal TourX 1987 Grand National
No loopback harness since I will be running way about their imposed power limit. Multiple LP2150, 2x150 @ 0.05% THD 20-20k with 5db of headroom. Same amp as what's in my truck.
 

g-coded

Member
80
25
18
Buick Ownership
2018 Regal Sportback
Guess I need to start doing some sound deadening
I had pulled a door panel off and noticed a 'fabric' like material on the door skin. I bought fast rings, but the inner cutout wasn't going to stick to that material.

This is not going to be a short or easy process since I'm not sure if I want to tackle it all at once or spread it out over several months or farm it out meaning $$$. I may have to wait for the weather to cool off some before I attempt anything. Still have some pieces to buy based on decisions, such as sub(s).
This basically sums up what I have been going through. I added/upgraded parts so that I would still have a functioning system while I decided which direction to go(harness with molex to bypass in/out > amplifying stock speakers > upgrading stock speakers(still working on this) > making box/amp 'plate'). I decided to go with a down firing sub box(built to act as a 'ramp' for oversized cargo), as making a box to fit the cutout(without fiberglass) is very limited on box volume.

I had also hooked up an old subwoofer(temp setup), and with the Dayton DSP+stock speakers+single 12" sub, I was really happy with the results, until 10 minutes later when I blew the sub :p
 

Irock1985

Active member
187
43
28
Buick Ownership
2018 Buick Regal
I had also hooked up an old subwoofer(temp setup), and with the Dayton DSP+stock speakers+single 12" sub, I was really happy with the results, until 10 minutes later when I blew the sub :p
LMAO.... I just spit my drink out
______________________________
 

6APPEAL

Member
71
20
8
Deep South
Buick Ownership
2019 Regal TourX 1987 Grand National
I had pulled a door panel off and noticed a 'fabric' like material on the door skin. I bought fast rings, but the inner cutout wasn't going to stick to that material.
Did you get a pic? Wondering if it's some form of factory deadening. Might make applying aftermarket deadening a tough job. I do have to remind myself that the car was built in Germany, not the US; so there are some differences in materials used in the manufacturing process.

From what I remember there's plenty of room to run wires front to back (in the Sportback at least they have nice channels to run wires in).

I didn't swap my factory wiring so I'm not sure about the doors. If you do take pictures 😉.
I always take a ton of pics in doing the installs of my systems. Based on what I see with the doors, I may just splice in at the kick panel. The short run of wire into the door will not be enough to cause any great loss of signal to the speakers. I figure the factory wire is 18 ga, possibly 20 ga. I typically use 10 ga for sub, 12 ga for midbass and 16 ga for midrange and tweeters.

Debating on losing some enclosure space to add a second battery. Which affects sub choice, which affects amp choice.
 

Irock1985

Active member
187
43
28
Buick Ownership
2018 Buick Regal
Did you get a pic? Wondering if it's some form of factory deadening. Might make applying aftermarket deadening a tough job. I do have to remind myself that the car was built in Germany, not the US; so there are some differences in materials used in the manufacturing process.


I always take a ton of pics in doing the installs of my systems. Based on what I see with the doors, I may just splice in at the kick panel. The short run of wire into the door will not be enough to cause any great loss of signal to the speakers. I figure the factory wire is 18 ga, possibly 20 ga. I typically use 10 ga for sub, 12 ga for midbass and 16 ga for midrange and tweeters.

Debating on losing some enclosure space to add a second battery. Which affects sub choice, which affects amp choice.
2nd battery!!! Oh you want some real power huh?

Yeah pretty sure the white material is for sound deadening. I believe it's at least a half inch thick. Kinda like a pressed cotton pad. In all honesty though our cars are pretty darn solid and really don't vibrate much at least in my experience
 

6APPEAL

Member
71
20
8
Deep South
Buick Ownership
2019 Regal TourX 1987 Grand National
2nd battery!!! Oh you want some real power huh?

Yeah pretty sure the white material is for sound deadening. I believe it's at least a half inch thick. Kinda like a pressed cotton pad. In all honesty though our cars are pretty darn solid and really don't vibrate much at least in my experience
Depending on the amp combination I use, it could draw 100+ amps easily at full tilt. Everyday listening probably less than 25 amp draw from amps, DSP and FiX-82.

I would find it being cloth based odd since GM considers the inside of the door to be a "wet" environment.
 

g-coded

Member
80
25
18
Buick Ownership
2018 Regal Sportback
Did you get a pic? Wondering if it's some form of factory deadening.
Yeah pretty sure the white material is for sound deadening. I believe it's at least a half inch thick. Kinda like a pressed cotton pad. In all honesty though our cars are pretty darn solid and really don't vibrate much at least in my experience
No pics, I got the panel off and realized I needed apapters :banghead: (didn't see adapters suggested when selecting speakers). @Irock1985, I couldn't have described it better myself, I still had plans on putting 'sound deadener' on the speaker mounting area, but the cotton/mesh wouldn't allow the fast ring/deadener inside.

The hardest part of the panel removal was the top of panel near the window. There are 5-6 metal clips that might as well be one way clips as they feel like something will break(any tips?). The attachments for these door panels in general is over engineered, the clips stay in the door causing the door panel 'ring' to distort/stretch while removing.
______________________________
 

Irock1985

Active member
187
43
28
Buick Ownership
2018 Buick Regal
No pics, I got the panel off and realized I needed apapters :banghead: (didn't see adapters suggested when selecting speakers). @Irock1985, I couldn't have described it better myself, I still had plans on putting 'sound deadener' on the speaker mounting area, but the cotton/mesh wouldn't allow the fast ring/deadener inside.

The hardest part of the panel removal was the top of panel near the window. There are 5-6 metal clips that might as well be one way clips as they feel like something will break(any tips?). The attachments for these door panels in general is over engineered, the clips stay in the door causing the door panel 'ring' to distort/stretch while removing.
On Crutchfield nothing was suggested?

Yeah the clips are a nightmare lol... Especially those blue ones. Might as well order some of those too replace the inevitable broken ones.

As far as the top of the door near the window I can't explain it but my installer separated the 2 parts (that don't even seem like 2 parts on first look) and that made the top part of the door 100x easier to work with
 

g-coded

Member
80
25
18
Buick Ownership
2018 Regal Sportback
On Crutchfield nothing was suggested?
I think it is because they include them when you order speakers, but not listed in "fits your car", and I'm not sure if you search for the specific part it would list as compatible(doesn't cover our year/model but is identical to older gm models).
Yeah the clips are a nightmare lol... Especially those blue ones. Might as well order some of those too replace the inevitable broken ones.
Yeah, they are designed to pull out of the metal, but rarely do, and as you suggested in your panel removal video they have to be removed from the metal and put in the panel to get them back in. I haven't broken any, but it feels like either the tool(plastic trim pry bar) or the clip will break.
As far as the top of the door near the window I can't explain it but my installer separated the 2 parts (that don't even seem like 2 parts on first look) and that made the top part of the door 100x easier to work with
It did feel like the 'bottom section' was lifting/separate from the top section. I did see some clips that looked like they could be separated, but with the amount of force the blue clips needed I decided to try to remove the whole panel(succeeded). When I have the time/space to get back to the doors I will take a closer look at separating the bottom, as I said the metal clips holding the top weren't designed for removal(think 'fish hook')
 

6APPEAL

Member
71
20
8
Deep South
Buick Ownership
2019 Regal TourX 1987 Grand National
On Crutchfield nothing was suggested?

Yeah the clips are a nightmare lol... Especially those blue ones. Might as well order some of those too replace the inevitable broken ones.

As far as the top of the door near the window I can't explain it but my installer separated the 2 parts (that don't even seem like 2 parts on first look) and that made the top part of the door 100x easier to work with
I assume y'all are talking about #6 "Door Trim Panel Retainer - GM (11611838)" that looks to be part of #17 "Belt Weather-Strip - GM (13463838)". From the exploded view on GM Parts Direct it looks like the Belt separates from the door panel. It also appears that one of panel clips has been superseded #2 "Door Trim Panel Clip (REPLACED BY 11547574)". Could be the clip that was giving you so much trouble.
Capture front door diagram.JPG

And just to enforce the point I made about GM considering the door interior be a wet environment, each door has #16 "Water Deflector - GM (13486346)". Just makes me scratch my head about using a fabric/cloth based sound deadening material inside the door. Seems to be inviting rust down the road.
 

g-coded

Member
80
25
18
Buick Ownership
2018 Regal Sportback
I assume y'all are talking about #6 "Door Trim Panel Retainer - GM (11611838)" that looks to be part of #17 "Belt Weather-Strip - GM (13463838)". From the exploded view on GM Parts Direct it looks like the Belt separates from the door panel. It also appears that one of panel clips has been superseded #2 "Door Trim Panel Clip (REPLACED BY 11547574)". Could be the clip that was giving you so much trouble.
Yes, this is the top clip that was giving me the most trouble, the 'door trim clips' are difficult, but if you know where they are you can get the panel to separate from the clip(clip remains in door). I'm not sure if you can access the 'belt weather strip' with the door panel on, unless there are retainers/clips at the ends you have very low clearance under the door panel when attached.

As @Irock1985 mentioned, the door panel separates(appears to) where I've circled in red.

DOOR PANEL SPLIT.jpg
______________________________
 

g-coded

Member
80
25
18
Buick Ownership
2018 Regal Sportback
So I've been going back and forth on the box type, and after seeing more 'stealth box' models for various cars, I decided to maximize the available space using MDF 'rings'. I've got a box volume of .41cu ft, and also have an estimated weight(not 100% sure on this calculation). This isn't the most ideal volume, but I plan to use polyfill(to help), and don't want to protrude past the trunk/spare cover opening. I currently just have a render and a cardboard mockup, but I plan on cutting parts this week.

Regal DS WW Box.jpg
 

6APPEAL

Member
71
20
8
Deep South
Buick Ownership
2019 Regal TourX 1987 Grand National
So I've been going back and forth on the box type, and after seeing more 'stealth box' models for various cars, I decided to maximize the available space using MDF 'rings'. I've got a box volume of .41cu ft, and also have an estimated weight(not 100% sure on this calculation). This isn't the most ideal volume, but I plan to use polyfill(to help), and don't want to protrude past the trunk/spare cover opening. I currently just have a render and a cardboard mockup, but I plan on cutting parts this week.

View attachment 17781
Stacked enclosures are jigsaw puzzles that can make it easier to put enclosures in odd places. Stacked enclosures has seemed to replace fiberglass enclosures in the builds I see today. The only 2 problems I've seen with stacked enclosures is material waste and you really need to use a programmable cnc router table. All those cuts are a major PITA, otherwise you can do some really cool looking stuff. Much easier to build rounded corners because I really suck at making kerf cuts (bending wood).

The enclosure I plan on building will be a mix of fiberglass and mdf. the fiberglass will be the down in the spare tire well and up to the sides which will be mdf along with the top being mdf. I will throw some bracing in to prevent fiberglass from flexing, but it shouldn't since it will be built to fit the car tightly. I have to down some sound deadening first.
 

g-coded

Member
80
25
18
Buick Ownership
2018 Regal Sportback
The only 2 problems I've seen with stacked enclosures is material waste and you really need to use a programmable cnc router table.
I thought about doing compound angle cuts to maximize material, but this would require a lot of precise cuts with angle cuts on each side(tapering in all directions). I do have access to a 3 axis cnc table, I definitely wouldn't want to do this with a jigsaw.
 
Top