Those damn Iron particles/little orange rust spots.

TC400

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247
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Pittsburgh, PA
Buick Ownership
Buick Regal TO7 (sold)
My Regal and Prius have these little orange spots all over the side and back of the car. On the regal they are even on the one door handle! Does anyone know how to get rid of them? I found this http://www.autoobsessed.com/shop/carpro-trix-tar-and-iron-remover-p-1530.html but I have never used anything like that and I hear clay bars work ok for things like this but they aren't the best solution? Thoughts?

-Tyler

- - - Updated - - -

IMG_2282.jpg I also took this picture you can see some more of those "iron particles"
 

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fantasy2c

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2012 Buick Turbo Trifecta Tuned
Brake dust.
Its on all vehicals just more visiable on white and silver cars.
Ive used clay bars without a problem..Normally comes right off, when I owned a white car I kept up on. If its been there awhile I have notice it can sometimes be a pain but does come off as per customer vehicles I've detailed.

Remember after clay baring the vehicle to polish/glaze and re wax :)
 

IceMan2

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East Central Indiana
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2014 Buick Encore
I have a 2012 silver Regal purchased new and have never had rusty spots like those on my car...from brake dust or anything else. However..I agree clay barring is easy and looks like it should take it right off.
 

CarbonBlackGS

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South Fl.
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2011 Enclave CXL2, 2012 Regal GS
Parking under or near trees? Clay bar will definitely remove it, but like fantasy2c said you have to re wax because the clay bar strips any build up and wax all the way to the clear coat.
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BamCam

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Reading, PA
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'14 Regal GS AWD
It's most likely from a PA winter, from my experience these spots typically come from snowplows. The plow grinds on the pavement creating little metal particles floating in the snow/slush just waiting to embed in your clearcoat. The harsher the winter the more spots I notice in the spring. When I traded in my '12 GS in February it was looking rough. The worse spots on my cars are typically behind the rear wheel. If you can get on it early enough, a really good wash and hours of clay bar should clear it right up.
 

wierz11

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Do you have well water? Minerals/metals in the water (iron) can cause this if left to sit on the car, I've had it happen to me. Like everyone else before me has said, clay bar should take it right off.
 

NormT

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Interesting observation on the snow plows. I was thinking rail car dust too.

A good coat of wax twice annually should help.
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NormT

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I haven't used Zaino products for 20 years or so. There other cheaper, easier polishes/sealants on the market today like Meguiar's Ultimate after a little Meguair's Scratch X 2.0. :)
 

T07

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You added that GM badge right?
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QSilverGS

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I was told it was from the rail cars, even the new cars that the dealership received would have it. Looks like it's time to try some clay bar..
 

TC400

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Pittsburgh, PA
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Buick Regal TO7 (sold)
Do you have well water? Minerals/metals in the water (iron) can cause this if left to sit on the car, I've had it happen to me. Like everyone else before me has said, clay bar should take it right off.

Not any more. I may be investing in a clay bar lol
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nizerims

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:(s)kciuB yM
Tyler,

You're on the right track, you're just on the wrong train. If you have never used any deironizers, T.R.I.X. may be too strong for your iron problem. T.R.I.X. is an awesome product to have in your detailing arsenal but I won't use it anywhere near plastic trim or rubber weatherstripping. Before you Clay Bar. I would suggest IRON X or IRON X paste. I'm going to warn you, this stuff smells like cancer, but it works. They do sell cute lemon or cherry scented IRON X,, but it still smells like GIRL FARTS. Clay Bars will remove the ferrous iron particles from the surface of your paint, but it won't completely remove a couple of spots (in your pics) that are working their way into your clear. Deironizers will grab that little piece of iron that is trying to hide in your clear coat and chokeslam it back to the surface of your paint so it can be rinsed away. You know the deironizer is winning the fight when it looks like your paint is bleeding....... If I had to choose 1, I would buy my deironizer in a gel or paste form. It has a longer work/flash time than the liquid and it is easier to use on wheels (you don't want to get this stuff on your unpainted calipers or rotors or wheel weights). This stuff works so good that it is slowly making its way into my local auto parts stores in the form of wheel cleaners.

Some "decon" stuff I currently use;

(That DUB Piña Caliente smells like vomit outside of a bar on ladies night)

BLACK CAR OWNERS should always decontaminate the paint prior to using a clay bar. Just like white people/black people problems, owners of white cars have different detailing problems than owners of black cars and vice versa. The more crap you can remove from your paint before you clay, the less marring of your clear and less paint correction you will have to do before you seal or wax your car.

That NEXT LEVEL clay bar.
I will always use a clay bar for some spots on a car, but for the past 2 or 3 years I have been using a Nanoskin AutoScrub wash mitt with tons of clay lube. It's fast and works so good I had to get the 6" DA pad and sponges.


Weird car care facts

How to tell when it's time to clay bar your car..... After you wash and dry your car, put your hand in a new cheap plastic sandwich bag and place your hand on your "clean" paint. Now move your fingers around in the bag and feel how clean your paint really is. If you feel a bunch of little bumps it's time to break out the clay and lube.


A lot of birds eat rocks or gravel to aid in digestion.

When the rock gets smooth or small enough, guess what happens? Yup ..... It is never ok to just wipe off some bird poo with a fast food napkin doused with glacéau smartwater. Either spray it off or soak it with a spray detailer and use an appropriate rag to lift the stuff off of your paint.
 

TC400

Full Member
247
4
18
Pittsburgh, PA
Buick Ownership
Buick Regal TO7 (sold)
Tyler,

You're on the right track, you're just on the wrong train. If you have never used any deironizers, T.R.I.X. may be too strong for your iron problem. T.R.I.X. is an awesome product to have in your detailing arsenal but I won't use it anywhere near plastic trim or rubber weatherstripping. Before you Clay Bar. I would suggest IRON X or IRON X paste. I'm going to warn you, this stuff smells like cancer, but it works. They do sell cute lemon or cherry scented IRON X,, but it still smells like GIRL FARTS. Clay Bars will remove the ferrous iron particles from the surface of your paint, but it won't completely remove a couple of spots (in your pics) that are working their way into your clear. Deironizers will grab that little piece of iron that is trying to hide in your clear coat and chokeslam it back to the surface of your paint so it can be rinsed away. You know the deironizer is winning the fight when it looks like your paint is bleeding....... If I had to choose 1, I would buy my deironizer in a gel or paste form. It has a longer work/flash time than the liquid and it is easier to use on wheels (you don't want to get this stuff on your unpainted calipers or rotors or wheel weights). This stuff works so good that it is slowly making its way into my local auto parts stores in the form of wheel cleaners.

Some "decon" stuff I currently use;

(That DUB Piña Caliente smells like vomit outside of a bar on ladies night)

BLACK CAR OWNERS should always decontaminate the paint prior to using a clay bar. Just like white people/black people problems, owners of white cars have different detailing problems than owners of black cars and vice versa. The more crap you can remove from your paint before you clay, the less marring of your clear and less paint correction you will have to do before you seal or wax your car.

That NEXT LEVEL clay bar.
I will always use a clay bar for some spots on a car, but for the past 2 or 3 years I have been using a Nanoskin AutoScrub wash mitt with tons of clay lube. It's fast and works so good I had to get the 6" DA pad and sponges.


Weird car care facts

How to tell when it's time to clay bar your car..... After you wash and dry your car, put your hand in a new cheap plastic sandwich bag and place your hand on your "clean" paint. Now move your fingers around in the bag and feel how clean your paint really is. If you feel a bunch of little bumps it's time to break out the clay and lube.


A lot of birds eat rocks or gravel to aid in digestion.

When the rock gets smooth or small enough, guess what happens? Yup ..... It is never ok to just wipe off some bird poo with a fast food napkin doused with glacéau smartwater. Either spray it off or soak it with a spray detailer and use an appropriate rag to lift the stuff off of your paint.

What a great answer! thanks for you help! I will def look into investing in the Iron X spray / gel. The reason I linked the one above is because my car has little dots of tar and those iron deposits all over so I figured I would kill two birds with one stone and its cheaper than the Iron x by itself. But if it's best to just buy the Ironx by itself then I will do that.
 

IceMan2

Full Member
208
1
0
East Central Indiana
Buick Ownership
2014 Buick Encore
Before I use something on my car...or actually before I purchase most anything..I look for customer reviews. Quite easy to do now on the internet and there are usually many if you type in the product name.
Here's some from a forum about using IronX...http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews/42651-review-carpro-iron-x.html
Scroll down and read the info. There are other reviews at other places as well.
IceMan2
 
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