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What surface to mount load resistor on or could heat shield work

BuickGirlFromMars

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I just realized they are gonna get hot. And there will be 4 of them near the plastic. How can I prevent them from melting plastic or what kind of shielding will enable me to safely use them. 15815829535991055555396901718661.jpg
 

HotZ28

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What are you putting that inline with the factory wiring harness? You may get the best answer back on Mars. :LOL: I will be back with some more advice on earth events, if you can explain what that wire/resistor is going to in more details.
 
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HotZ28

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Those appear to be resistors for the new LED lights so it won't hyper Flash, is that correct? If so, go back to the regular bulbs instead of the LED bulbs! Those resistors get extremely hot, and create a liability/hazard, rather than an asset!
 
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BuickGirlFromMars

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I know that they get hot. That's the reason I posted it lol
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2007LucerneCXL

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For simple heat resistance to a area home HVAC foam back aluminum will work, any Home Depot, Menards etc has material in the HVAC department. Mounting them to a some type of frame support / bracket that has open air, trunk and front end, upstream away from the elements is a option as they do not need to be next to the light sockets just in the harness to the lights.
 

BuickGirlFromMars

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For simple heat resistance to a area home HVAC foam back aluminum will work, any Home Depot, Menards etc has material in the HVAC department. Mounting them to a some type of frame support / bracket that has open air, trunk and front end, upstream away from the elements is a option as they do not need to be next to the light sockets just in the harness to the lights.
Yes. And the harness hugs close to the assembly and trunk lid. Not worried about trunk lid. And okay that's a material to consider for sure
 

2007LucerneCXL

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Toss in automotive exhaust shield heat resistance material if you have some of that around as another source. The main thing is that the resistor is in a open air type environment which will help on keeping the heat down.
 

HotZ28

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The resistor(s) can not be wrapped in any heat tape or exhaust wrapping and survive the heat, they will eventually fail!
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2007LucerneCXL

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Yes that is correct, assuming it was to be on near by objects to prevent heat from the resistor near those objects.
 

2007LucerneCXL

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Again correct, nothing should be wrapped on it. Assumed that everyone knew not to wrap a heat sink, but then again I've seen people put high powered magnetics on a metal PC case lol.
 

MelsRegal

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If you are worried about nearby plastic, cover the plastic not the part
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Anaduff

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Usually you would mount the resistors to a metal plate (acts as an additional heat sink) & then mount the plate to something. If the plate has to attach to plastic, use a few standoffs (aka spacers) between the metal and the plastic to allow an air gap-- 1/4" should work. As previously mentioned, you don't want the resistors to be in direct contact with anything else--as you already know, they ARE heaters, so treat them as such.

Terminators.JPG
 

BuickGirlFromMars

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Usually you would mount the resistors to a metal plate (acts as an additional heat sink) & then mount the plate to something. If the plate has to attach to plastic, use a few standoffs (aka spacers) between the metal and the plastic to allow an air gap-- 1/4" should work. As previously mentioned, you don't want the resistors to be in direct contact with anything else--as you already know, they ARE heaters, so treat them as such.

View attachment 21122

Well, sir, your advice is actually something I was going to follow generally speaking, but the photo you posted has blown my mind!
IS that your setup? And its genius, resist the wire early before the tail light so only two are required..

Is that on the driver side fender well? And is the green/red wire out of that main wire loom? What goes in front to keep the mat or objects from hitting the surface?
 

2007LucerneCXL

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As those appear to be the trunk mounts, every vehicle is slightly different, finding a brace near the wiring harness and tapping in at that point is the easiest way. If it's a clearance issue, Anaduff install looks like it has the spacing, but it can be mounted on the opposite side of the vehicle bracket as his placing the resistor away from the trunk liner. My rears are that way and years of no issues except on each side of the vehicle as that's where the harness runs. Unfortunately, for others reading this, a resistor will be needed at all four corners of the lights unless the LED's have a built in resistor (rate those as so-so) or a hyper flash module for the fuse blinker (again so-so on working). Would have gotten a picture but it is darn cold to open the trunk up and yank the linings out LOL.
 

BuickGirlFromMars

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I dont see why it would need all four corners. There are two bulbs on each side of the housing both inline that feed off one power wire in the vehicle harness that splits in two going to seperate bulb. Shouldnt one resistor on each circuit reduce current sufficiently and then distribute to both bulbs equally?
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2007LucerneCXL

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The front and rear signals is what I was referring to not to be confused with multiple lights in the rear housing as those would be on a single wire harnesses, one for driver and one for passenger.

Front and rears are on separate harnesses so each LED turn signal will require a resistor on all four corners, if someone else on the forum knows otherwise please share.
 

Anaduff

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Just offering general advice. In my case, those two resistors are there to make the body control module think that there are still 2 (right & left) combined turn/brake lamps in place on the tail light assembly (new tail lights with separate brake & turn signals have been fitted).

I'm sorry I can't you any specific advice on your trailer light project. It's been donkey years since I've had anything to do with trailer connexions. :)

Added--

Just searching around the internet (re: trailer wiring) & have to ask what the power resistors are actually for? I mean if both your Park Avenue & the trailer have the same stop/turn signal configuration, it should be a 'straight-through' (plus some fuses) wiring job. If the trailer is using LED's and the car has incandescent bulbs, that should work just fine.


Is there a link you could post here to a site giving the details of the project at hand?
 
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Drakito

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If they are only used for the blinkers, like mine are, they never get enough current load to heat up. The constant on/off cycle keeps them very cool, coupled with the low power requirement of the LED's being run means the resistor is only run at about 1% of it's rating. Thermal camera and IR thermometer both showed no temp increase for 10 minutes of blinking. I soldered them in, then just ziptied them with strain relief for the wiring and they have worked perfectly for the last 5 years. Same exact resistors for all my blinkers, front and rear, in this and 2 other vehicles.
The reason for front and rear separation and 2 sets of resistors is based on the way the light control system is designed. The PAU uses a light module that controls all, the flasher is isolated separately front and rear internally in the module. Other vehicles like my Suburban have the circuits separated in other ways. My 68 ford even required front and rear resistors due to the circuit designs.
 

BuickGirlFromMars

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Wow thanks on both here. Its good to know the draw is low enough with on off. Maybe Ill wire it in and test it myself to be safe with the turn signal flashing. The problem lies with them on as tail lights I presume? And the occasional trailer wouldnt have more than one light flashing at a time, so not something to worry about. Thats awesome. And it would be LED. We dont use incandescents in this house! Well... where we can avoid it or fix it.

And on the trailer wiring, yeah I just want to put a connector in for 4 pin. Really all to it. I dont pull big things. I pulled about 500 pounds or so once, but it got dark so I took backroads incase a cop or someone were to get behind me, id rather them not see my trailer without lights and have a ticket or accident. Small potatoes kind of thing.
 
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