Oil Life / Change Interval and Tire Rotation

zinner

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Just wondering what others are experiencing for their oil change intervals.

I was at 6500 miles before I decided to change the oil.

AC Delco PF457G and 6 QT of Mobile 1. I also rotated the tires as the front was looking a little low compared to the back.

I was surprised that the oil life monitor system was showing 50%. 13,000 miles between oil changes is really stretching my belief in that oil life system in the car.

I will be surprised if I get another 6500 out of the stock P ZEROs. They are showing signs of age with lower traction and some vibration/noise at highway speeds. But that is my experience with P ZERO's in general, they are great for about 5000 files and it's downhill from there.
 
we just had A customer with the P Zeros had 22,000 miles on this car and had to have all 4 tires replaced the Fronts Were shot the rears were cuped and vibrating

I like to change my oil around 6000 miles, 13,000 miles is just too much
 
P ZEROs are shot at 20,000 miles, they are 220 tread rated. I am starting to hate them as time wears on.
 
had my oil changed at 6k...OLM still showed 45%! however, since that change i've noticed the OLM going down much quicker than before. i'm supposing the dealership updated the OLM with the new intervals?? tires look fine so far...but they are the michelins on my plain jane turbo! 🙂
 
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I had dealer change the oil and rotate the 20"p-zeros when they replaced my MAF around 11,000 miles. The change oil soon warning just came on then. It's a lease, so I'm not overly concerned with longevity. If I owned it I probably wouldn't wait for the dummy light.

I'm having my tires replaced tomorrow. I went with the General G-MAX AS-03.
Tirerack has them on special now. I got them for $139 each+ a $50 prepaid vis a card back.http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireS...true&minSpeedRating=V&minLoadRating=S&tab=All

I'll post a review after I spend some time with them. Looks like a decent tire, especially for the price. Much longer tread life and they're all-season. As much as I love the traction, it's just not practical for me to run summer tires where I live.

I have just over 16K on the p-zeros. They were incredible when new, but now they are awful. They have been for the last 7-8K. It's just downright dangerous to drive this thing with any kind of spirit now. I almost spun-out going around a curved highway on-ramp. I was pushing in hard in 3rd gear/sport mode and the ass started to give. I let up and it took a couple of seconds for the car to get traction again. Scared the shit out of me...I lost all confidence in the car...and that was on dry pavement...forget about in the rain. I have to drive like an old lady. I remember when I first picked up my GS...felt like it could handle almost any turn at any speed. I miss that feeling...hopeful the new tires will have enough grip.

I only waited so long because my neighborhood is still recovering from Sandy. My entire block burnt down except for me and a couple of other houses. With all of the debris removal and excavating going on, my GS and my wife's Enclave have had about 10 screws in the tires. I literally look out my bedroom window a couple of weeks ago to see a backhoe bucket a few feet from my face. I did a time-lapse video from my front porch. See the clip here:https://vimeo.com/60185139

I'm scared to even put the news ones on, but the car has really become unenjoyable. I'm going to be so pissed if I have to repair a brand new tire, but at this poit I really don't have a choice. I least they're pretty cheap.
 
Well, now I'm having serious doubts about the oil life monitor too. I just hit 4000 miles and my Change Oil Soon light is on with 2% oil life left. What trim/package are you guys driving? Mine's a '13 GS.
 
Well, now I'm having serious doubts about the oil life monitor too. I just hit 4000 miles and my Change Oil Soon light is on with 2% oil life left. What trim/package are you guys driving? Mine's a '13 GS.

Maybe Buick reconsidered and lowered the recommended oil change intervals for 2013. I know with the north stars in the past, GM recommended 7,500 miles between changes, but they ran into problems down the road when they all started breaking. Towards the end a couple of my old auroras leaked oil so badly they it was more like a constant oil change anyway.

What's your manual say?
 
If you are worried about oil change intervals, get an oil analysis. That is the only way to know for sure. Also, the oil life monitor is pretty advanced. Here is a copy/paste from someone else in another forum:

ls1gto.com said:
One thing I can touch on and clear up.....the GM oil life monitor operation and my statement that ZDP (or ZDDP as you tend to call it here...most of the API literature just sticks to ZDP so I tend to use that) depletion is the basis for oil deterioration.

My spelling is poor but ZDP stands for zinc dialkyldithiophosphate which , as it sounds, is an anti-wear compound comprised of zinc and phosphorus.

ZDP is dispersed in the oil so as to be at a potential wear site if a surface asperity happens to break thru the oil film thickness causing the dreaded metal-to-metal contact. A molecule of ZDP must be present at that moment to prevent microwelding at the contact site which will cause material transfer, scuffing, scoring, wear and catostrophic failure. The concentration of ZDP in the oil will determine if there is ZDP present to work it's magic. The greater the concentration...the more likely a molecule of ZDP will be there...and vice versa.

By nature, ZDP is sacrifical. As ZDP is "used up" at a wear site to prevent micorwelding the concentration of ZDP decreases.... So...if you measure the ZDP concentration in engine oil in a running engine it will decrease at linear rate based on engine revolutions. Any given engine has a certain number of high potential wear areas where metal-to-metal contact could occur due to reduced film thickness and/or surface asperities....areas such as rubbing element cam followers, distributor gears, rocker arm pivots, push rod tips, etc...... The more of these areas the more ZDP depletion. The more often these features come in contact the greater the ZDP depletion. That is why, generally speaking, ZDP concentration in the oil, for any given engine, will decrease at a fairly linear rate when plotted versus cummulative engine revolutions. The more times it turns the more contact the more chance for wear the greater the depletion. This is as much of a fact as I could quote ever and is really not speculation or anything. It is proven beyond a shadow of a doubt in many studies. That is why it is ONE of the basis for determining oil life remaining and why it is THE basic premis of the GM oil life algorithm. It is only ONE of the things that determines oil life...but it is the one thing that can be tied to engine operation in a linear fashion and estimated very accurately by accumulating engine revolutions via a counter.

The GM engine oil life monitor counts engine revolutions and accumulates the number for the basis of the oil life calculation. It then adds deterioration factors for operating temperature, start up temperature, soak times, ambient, coolant temperature, etc... There are a LOT of factors that "adjust" or affect the slope of the deterioration but the fundamental deterioration is traced back to the ZDP depletion that is inescapable with engine revolutions. The specific rate of ZDP depletion is readily measurable for any given engine so that is the fundamental item that is first calibrated for the oil life algorithm to tailor it specifically to that engine.

You would obviously like to get the oil out of the engine before the ZDP concentration gets so low that it is ineffective at being at the right place at the right time and preventing engine wear so that becomes the long term limit on oil life for that application.

The other things that determine oil life such a acid build up, oxidation, petane insuluables such as silicon from dust/dirt, carbon or soot build up from the EGR in blowby, water contamination, fuel contamination, etc.... are all modeled by the multipliers or deterioration factors that "adjust" the immediate slope of the line defined by the engine revolution counter as those items can be modeled in other ways and accounted for in the immediate slope of the ZDP depletion line.

The algorithm was developed over the course of many years by several lubrication experts at GM Fuels and Lubes, spearheaded by Doctor Shirley Schwartz who holds the patents (with GM) for the algorithm and the oil life montitor. I had the luck of working directly with Dr. Schwartz when the idea of the oil life monitor first progressed from the theoretical/lab stage to real world testing/development/validation. There were fleets of cars operated under all conditions that deteriorate the oil life for any and every reason and , thru oil sampling and detailed analysis of the oil condition, the algorithm was developed, fine tuned and validated to be the most accurate way invented yet to recommend an oil change interval by. As just one example, I have seen cars driven side-by-side on trips, one towing a trailer and one not, for instance, to prove the effectiveness of the oil life monitor in deteriorating the oil at a faster rate just because of the higher load, higher average RPM, higher temps, etc...and it works flawlessly.

The oil life monitor is so effective because: it is customized for that specific vehicle/engine, it takes everything into account that deteriorates the oil, it is ALWAYS working so as to take into account THAT INDIVIDUALS driving schedule, and it tailors the oil change to that schedule and predicts, on an ongoing basis, the oil life remaining so that that specific individual can plan an oil change accordingly. No other system can do this that effectively.

One thing is that I know personally from years of testing and thousands of oil analysis that the oil life algorithm works. There is simply no argument to the contrary. If you don't believe me, fine, but, trust me, it works. It is accurate because it has been calibrated for each specific engine it is installed on and there is considerable testing and validation of the oil life monitor on that specific application. NOt something that oil companies or Amsoil do. They generalize....the oil life monitor is very specific for that application.

Oil condition sensors in some BMW and Mercedes products are useful, also. They have their limitations, though, as they can be blind to some contaminates and can, themselves, be contaminated by certain markers or constituents of certain engine oils. Oil condition sensors can only react to the specific oil at that moment and they add complexity, cost and another potential item to fail. One other beauty of the GM oil life monitor is that it is all software and does not add any mechanical complexity, mass, wiring or potential failure mechanism.

There is considerable safety factor in the GM oil life monitor. Typically, I would say, there is a 2:1 safety factor in the slope of the ZDP depletion curve....in other words, zero percent oil life per the ZDP depletion is not zero ZDP but twice the concentration of ZDP considered critical for THAT engine to operate under all conditions reliably with no wear. This is always a subject of discussion as to just how low do you want the ZDP to get before the oil is "worn out" if this is the deciding factor for oil life. We would tend to be on the conservative side. If the oil life is counting down on a slope that would recommend a 10K change interval then there is probably 20K oil life before the ZDP is catostrophically depleted....not that you would want to go there...but reason why many people are successful in running those change intervals.

Please...NOT ALL ENGINES ARE THE SAME. The example above is an excellent practical justification of why you would want to add EOS and change the 15W40 Delvac in the muscle car at 3000 miles max and yet can run the Northstar to 12500 easily on conventional oil. You must treat each engine and situation differently and what applies to one does not retroactively apply to others. This is where Amsoil falls short in my book by proposing long change intervals in most everything if you use their oil. It just doesn't work that way. You can run the Amsoil to 12500 with no concerns whatsoever in the late model Northstar because even the oil life monitor tells you that for conventional oil off the shelf. Would I do that to the 502 in my 66 Chevelle...NO WAY. Amsoil says I can though. Wrong.

There are entire SAE papers written on the GM oil life monitor and one could write a book on it so it is hard to touch on all aspects of it in a single post. Hopefully we hit the high spots. Realize that a GREAT deal of time, work and energy went into developing the oil life monitor and it has received acclaim from engineering organizations, petroleum organizations, environmental groups all across the board. It is not some widget invented in a week and tacked onto the car.

The oil life monitor is not under the control of a summer intern at GM Powertrain per an earlier post....LOL Not that a summer intern wasn't compiling calibrations or doing a project on it but is under control of the lube group with a variety of engineers directly responsible that have immediate responsibility for the different engine families and engine groups. The idea that a summer intern was responsible for or handling the oil life monitor is ludicrous.....LOL LOL LOL "
per a GM engineer.
 
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Try out the Sumitomo HTR-Z III tires. They are a great price at Tire Rack. I ran them on my GTO for Autocross and they were fantastic. They are a 300 treadware tire and lasted over two years with my GTO putting out 385rwhp and 395rwtq
 
Maybe Buick reconsidered and lowered the recommended oil change intervals for 2013. I know with the north stars in the past, GM recommended 7,500 miles between changes, but they ran into problems down the road when they all started breaking. Towards the end a couple of my old auroras leaked oil so badly they it was more like a constant oil change anyway.

What's your manual say?

As far as I can see, it doesn't give a mileage estimate for when it needs to be changed. It just says to change it when the Oil Life Monitor tells you to. And when I go to the Buick Owners Center and click "Find Maintenance Schedule", under "Oil Change" it just says "Check engine oil level and oil life percentage. If needed, change engine oil and filter, and reset oil life system.". Seems like they treat the OLM as the end all, beat all.
 
I have a 2012 Regal GS, manual transmission. I don't believe there are any listed mileage limits in the manual. I see to remember it just references the intervals based on the Oil life monitor?
 
I grew up as a 3000 mile oil change guy. Took a leap of faith with my 2011 Regal and let it go to 5000 before the 1st change. OLM siad I had 50% left, but I decided to error to the side of caution. I think 5000 is good for me. Rather be safe than sorry.
 
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To add to my oil analysis suggestion above, I recommend http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

They will send you a free test kit. And the analysis is only $25. So, if you find out you can extend your intervals, it will save you money at every oil change.

Also, cars have had longer intervals for a while now. My last few VWs were 5,000 miles for the first two changes and then every 10,000 after. Synthetic of course.
 
I had a bad experience with my 3.6 V6 on my 06 SRX. The OLM gave me the mentality that you don't need to worry about the oil after all the computer is keeping an eye on it. We if you take that mentality you end up 2.5 qts low on oil @ 25% oil life remaining. I have been checking and changing oil more often since that.
 
Well, now I'm having serious doubts about the oil life monitor too. I just hit 4000 miles and my Change Oil Soon light is on with 2% oil life left. What trim/package are you guys driving? Mine's a '13 GS.

Indy, I've got a '13 GS with 3400 miles and I'm at 19% (probably drive 95% city / 5% highway).
 
I've just always been cautious about my oil changes. My old Cooper S bad the OLMS as well and it always started the countdown at 15,500 miles. I changed the oil every 5,000 when I did a lot of aggressive driving, but on the off shoot Inwould push it to 7,000 miles if it was an interval of "normal" driving. The GS has had a strict 5,000 mile interval.

On the P Zero note, I have the 19"s so don't have any experience with them; however Road & Track did a recent long term review on their GS and they out 16,000 miles on theirs and needed to replace the fronts. I was going to be putting some Yokohama S Drives on mine this Spring, but I had a rather large bill I had to recently pay. In want some grippy tires!!!!!!!!
 
I was going to be putting some Yokohama S Drives on mine this Spring, but I had a rather large bill I had to recently pay. In want some grippy tires!!!!!!!!
i had great experiences with the S. drives on my WRX...great grip for a street tire and i even did a few HPDEs on them to toast them...even there they performed well considering their price and treadwear.
 
i had great experiences with the S. drives on my WRX...great grip for a street tire and i even did a few HPDEs on them to toast them...even there they performed well considering their price and treadwear.
Yes, I had major success with the S Drives on my Cooper S. with the suspension modifications and these tires, I pulled a solid 1.03 g turn on Highway 129 at Deals Gap back in September of 2010. Very good tire for the money!!
 
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