wierz11
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- Buick Ownership
- E92 M3, E46 330, E24 635CSi
This thread will show the installation of the DRL/LED turn signals, shown in this link. Shipping from China took 1 week to the Milwaukee metro area in SE WI. Some drilling is required with this project.
Time:
3 hours (no knowledge), 1 hour (with knowledge).
Difficulty:
Easy
Tools:
Unboxing
The box itself
Everything out, the lights are covered in protective blue plastic
Boy, this sure helps. Luckily my phone is able to translate text, so I was able to decipher some, but it didn't help much.
You can see the quality of the lights in this picture. The chrome bezel around the light is held on by double-sided tape. I had to press and hold the bezel to make sure they would stay. I may remove them later and paint them the flat silver that is around the air intake "fangs" so they would match.
The wires coming out of the light.
The wires coming out of the "black box" controller. Match the white, black, and yellow from the light to the white, black, and yellow of the black box. Red = ACC, Yellow = Turn Signal, Black = Ground.
Steps
1) Place the front end of the car up on jack stands. Turn the wheel so you have access to the wheel well which you are working on. There are 3 T-15 torx screws that need to be removed to have access to behind the bumper.
2) Pushing the wheel well aside, you now have access to the tabs of the plastic fake vent. These tabs were EXTREMELY hard to move (you are supposed to squeeze the top two and bottom two together, and push out), so I ended up breaking the top three off and removing the vent. I figured if I ever want to put it back it, I can glue it back in/get a replacement.
3) Remove the plastic vent, and clean the area.
4) Using a 3/16" drill bit, drill a hole at the top of the indent where the black plastic vent used to be. This is where you will feed the wires through.
5) Install the light. The light will not seat completely in the indent. Push it is as far as possible. Use hot glue on all four tabs, and on the hole where the wires came through. This will prevent it from falling out.
6) Drop the white, yellow, and black wires down into the engine bay from the black box. I snaked mine along the front of the frame next to the intercooler. I wanted to keep them as far out of sight as possible. I used hot glue to mount the black box to the frame, out of sight, or you can use double-sided tape.
7) Connect the white, yellow, and black wires from the light to the black box. Any extra wiring I bundled up, zip tied, and duct taped it to the inside of the bumper. Reinstall the torx screws in the wheel well.
NOTE: The next two steps are only if you want the fog lamps to flash yellow when the turn signal is activated; I ended up not doing it because of personal preference.
8) Remove the wiring going to the headlamp. Pull up on the red piece surrounding the harness, and pull the harness out.
9) Cut open the tubing to expose the wires leading to the headlamp. The yellow wire is the turn signal wire, which we will be tapping into. Use the supplied wire tap (or I recommend actually cutting and splicing into the wire using solder, much more secure) to tap the yellow wire from the red-black-yellow group from the black box. Retape the wire tubing back up with electrical wire.
10) Open the fuse box, which is located next to the battery in the right-hand side of the engine bay. We will be tapping into fuse 52 (5 amp fuse). Attach the red ACC wire into fuse slot 52.
11) Find any bolt that is attached to the frame, and attach the black wire to it. This is the ground. This picture shows me just testing the setup to ensure ground was made, I secured it correctly later on.
Time:
3 hours (no knowledge), 1 hour (with knowledge).
Difficulty:
Easy
Tools:
- Torx tool/bit, size T-15
- 3/16" drill bit & power drill
- 10mm socket & socket wrench
- Box cutter/sharp blade
- Double-sided tape (optional)
- Hot glue
- Electrical tape
- Duct tape
Unboxing
The box itself
Everything out, the lights are covered in protective blue plastic
Boy, this sure helps. Luckily my phone is able to translate text, so I was able to decipher some, but it didn't help much.
You can see the quality of the lights in this picture. The chrome bezel around the light is held on by double-sided tape. I had to press and hold the bezel to make sure they would stay. I may remove them later and paint them the flat silver that is around the air intake "fangs" so they would match.
The wires coming out of the light.
The wires coming out of the "black box" controller. Match the white, black, and yellow from the light to the white, black, and yellow of the black box. Red = ACC, Yellow = Turn Signal, Black = Ground.
Steps
1) Place the front end of the car up on jack stands. Turn the wheel so you have access to the wheel well which you are working on. There are 3 T-15 torx screws that need to be removed to have access to behind the bumper.
2) Pushing the wheel well aside, you now have access to the tabs of the plastic fake vent. These tabs were EXTREMELY hard to move (you are supposed to squeeze the top two and bottom two together, and push out), so I ended up breaking the top three off and removing the vent. I figured if I ever want to put it back it, I can glue it back in/get a replacement.
3) Remove the plastic vent, and clean the area.
4) Using a 3/16" drill bit, drill a hole at the top of the indent where the black plastic vent used to be. This is where you will feed the wires through.
5) Install the light. The light will not seat completely in the indent. Push it is as far as possible. Use hot glue on all four tabs, and on the hole where the wires came through. This will prevent it from falling out.
6) Drop the white, yellow, and black wires down into the engine bay from the black box. I snaked mine along the front of the frame next to the intercooler. I wanted to keep them as far out of sight as possible. I used hot glue to mount the black box to the frame, out of sight, or you can use double-sided tape.
7) Connect the white, yellow, and black wires from the light to the black box. Any extra wiring I bundled up, zip tied, and duct taped it to the inside of the bumper. Reinstall the torx screws in the wheel well.
NOTE: The next two steps are only if you want the fog lamps to flash yellow when the turn signal is activated; I ended up not doing it because of personal preference.
8) Remove the wiring going to the headlamp. Pull up on the red piece surrounding the harness, and pull the harness out.
9) Cut open the tubing to expose the wires leading to the headlamp. The yellow wire is the turn signal wire, which we will be tapping into. Use the supplied wire tap (or I recommend actually cutting and splicing into the wire using solder, much more secure) to tap the yellow wire from the red-black-yellow group from the black box. Retape the wire tubing back up with electrical wire.
10) Open the fuse box, which is located next to the battery in the right-hand side of the engine bay. We will be tapping into fuse 52 (5 amp fuse). Attach the red ACC wire into fuse slot 52.
11) Find any bolt that is attached to the frame, and attach the black wire to it. This is the ground. This picture shows me just testing the setup to ensure ground was made, I secured it correctly later on.
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