Battery drain???

[FFarr]

Haven't had a chance to troubleshoot the problem yet but I'm having a severe battery drain. From a totally charged battery to not enough to spin the starter in less than 24 hours.
Is there something I should check first, as in a common problem?
Nothing appears to be on, glove box light not on, ditto with the trunk light.

 

[Kevandkaye]

Simplest and free checks first are..... have the battery tested at most auto part stores for free. Make sure nothing is in any of the lighter sockets; ie: aluminum gum wrappers/coins.

 

[Ziggy]

Battery drains are often caused by alarms and radio's. But I think the PA shuts the radio off after 10 minutes.
You would have to test each fuse to see which one is the problem. Then look up what is connected to that fuse and disconnect that one by one...

 

[Spriteman]

You could also put a clamp meter on the +POS lead on the battery and measure the amps being drawn. This will give you some indication of what may be draining the battery based on what kind of device/sensor would use that amount.

Then - as Ziggy says - you can start pulling one fuse at the time with the AMP meter still showing draw - when it zeros out - you'll know it's on that circuit.

As Kevandkaye says - check your battery and alternator - you could just not be getting a good charge the day before you try to start.

 

[FFarr]

I've noticed slight arcing when pulling the battery cables, at first thought was just the interior lights not gone out yet...
I may be wrong but I think this problem has been around awhile before I bought the car. The car had a new (rebuilt) alternator, temp and the fuel gauge pointers were spun around, and indications of the wiring being dinked around with...

I have an audible circuit tester that I attach in series with the batt.- cable. If there is a circuit made or a short it will beep, I pull fuses until the beeping stops. Good idea checking the current draw, my multimeter has that function. More tomorrow.

 

[Kevandkaye]

An amp reader would be the ideal way to go. Gm's have a history of the delco anti theft radios going bad and draining power. I'd start there. The needles on the cluster is a good sign that the battery has been disconnected. It is also a common nusiance....

 

[FFarr]

Stumped
The only fuse that will stop the current drain is the BATT 1 60A Maxi Fuse @ the underhood electrical center.
Pulled every fuse from the underhood, instrument panel and the rear electrical center, no change.

Not the; Radio, alternator, HVAC control, trunk light, glove box light, under hood light.

 

[HotZ28]

Disconnect the negative cable, then the positive cable. Reconnect the positive without the starter cable in the circuit and see what you have. If there is still drain, it is somewhere in the chassis wiring. If drain is gone, it's somewhere in the ignition/start circuit.

 

[Spriteman]

According to my online manual the Batt #1 Maxifuse 60 Amp feeds:

Several fuses on the Rear Bussed Electrical Center including:
HTDSTL Fuse 10 Amp - Heated Seat Left
CD/PH Fuse 10 Amp - CD / Phone
RDO Fuse 10 Amp - Radio
C/LTR Fuse 15 Amp - Cigarette Lighter
DDM Fuse 10 Amp - Driver Door Module
RDM Fuse 10 Amp - Rear Door Module
TRK REL Fuse 15 Amp - Trunk Release

And the I/P Bussed Electrical Center including:
SBM Fuse 15 Amp - Body Control Module
PDM Fuse 10 Amp - Passenger Door Module
CSTR/SBM Fuse 10 Amp - HVAC Programmer & IP Cluster

My recommendation would be to pull all of the fuses in each group at one time and see if that kills the draw. Then start adding the fuses back in and see what happens. Just make sure you take a picture of the fuse block before you start pulling them so that you can make sure that go back where they belong. I think I might start with I/P fuse block since there are only a few there.

You don't have anything plugged into the cigarette lighter do you?

 

[LMG1438]

I had a similar problem recently, my ignition switch is worn and the key can be removed before the switch is in the off position . I belived that was the problem or it repaired itself LOL.

Good luck with your repair.

LMG

 

[FFarr]

No, nothing in the cigarette lighter sockets, no bulbs burning, brake lights not stuck on...
HTDSTL=Heated seat L?
CD/PH=CD Changer? (Not equipped)
RDO=Removed the radio since had previous problems (stuck tape)
DDM=??
RDM=??
TRK REL=Will check manyana

SBM=??
PDM=??
CSTR SBM=??

I'm sure it's something simple and elementary but it's got me down. I worked on the thing three hours today with no success.

According to my online manual the Batt #1 Maxifuse 60 Amp feeds:

Several fuses on the Rear Bussed Electrical Center including:
HTDSTL Fuse 10 Amp
CD/PH Fuse 10 Amp
RDO Fuse 10 Amp
C/LTR Fuse 15 Amp
DDM Fuse 10 Amp
RDM Fuse 10 Amp
TRK REL Fuse 15 Amp

And the I/P Bussed Electrical Center including:
SBM Fuse 15 Amp
PDM Fuse 10 Amp
CSTR/SBM Fuse 10 Amp

My recommendation would be to pull all of the fuses in each group at one time and see if that kills the draw. Then start adding the fuses back in and see what happens. Just make sure you take a picture of the fuse block before you start pulling them so that you can make sure that go back where they belong. I think I might start with I/P fuse block since there are only a few there.

You don't have anything plugged into the cigarette lighter do you?

 

[HotZ28]

IIRC, Click Here you recently made some solder repairs to the drivers side door memory switch board. Pull that fuse and see what happens.

 

[FFarr]

Thanks for the help guys, finally figuring out my way around the service manual. Almost like deciphering Greek.

 

[PadronIIVI]

Years back I had this problem it was the factory amp. For some reason it wouldn't shut down. It drove me nuts for a week. Even though the factory stereo was replaced along with all the speakers. I the factory amp must have shorted or something and started to draw power with the car on and off.
I forgot it was even in the car. And on a cold morning I was looking in the trunk and it was room temp when everything else was below freezing. So I just took it out

 

[FFarr]

Pulled all the mini fuses, no change. Not the amp, not the seat memory, not the DS mirror, not the seat controls, not the inst. panel.

 

[Spriteman]

If you've pulled all of the fuses listed above then perhaps there is a short in one of the fuse block pins or wires running to the I/P or rear fuse blocks from the underhood fuse block.

And you say that the BATT 1 60 Amp maxi fuse is the only thing that will kill the amp draw?

 

[FFarr]

Strangest thing...
Had rechecked my BEC fuses for the umpteenth time, looked over at the meter and was reading ZERO! Put everything back together, I have no clue what the current drain was caused from but I'm thinking a battery disconnect and a jumpbox in the trunk!

If you've pulled all of the fuses listed above then perhaps there is a short in one of the fuse block pins or wires running to the I/P or rear fuse blocks from the underhood fuse block.

And you say that the BATT 1 60 Amp maxi fuse is the only thing that will kill the amp draw?

 

[HotZ28]

Strangest thing...
Had rechecked my BEC fuses for the umpteenth time, looked over at the meter and was reading ZERO! Put everything back together, I have no clue what the current drain was caused from but I'm thinking a battery disconnect and a jumpbox in the trunk!

Does it appear that someone had an aftermarket amp installed in the trunk at one time? I have never seen "a battery disconnect and a jumpbox in the trunk" on an OEM install.

 

[WaveRunner]

I have seen this type of post many times on various posts and with friends that experience the same problem. HotZ28 you are the closest in troubleshooting but I would add having a wiring diagram for the year and make. Also a knowlege of those componets that OPERATE WHEN THE IGNITION SWITCH IS IN THE OFF POSITION.

I had experienced battery drain and after owning my 91 PA now for 5 years I am familiar with those components that operate when the ignition is in the off position AND the MISTAKES owners can make that will drain the battery. My particular problem came down to 2 problems: The FIRST and greatest was the "auto leveling systm" for the rear shocks. The SECOND was the overhead lights INSIDE the passenger comartment. Especially the overhead dash. When paking the car for the night if I used these interior lights and forgot to turn them off--AND most Park Avenue owners know the interior and door lights stay on for a few minutes after parking the car...ignition OFF...one would walk off and think everyting is OK. The next day the battery is drained.

SOLUTION: I jsut pulled the driver side fuse for the AUTO LEVELING SYSTEM and drove with "limited rear shocks" until I could fix the rear air shocks. NOW I DO NOT KNOW IF BUICK KEPT THE SAME CONFIGURATION FOR THE REAR SHOCKS--allowing the sytem to reajust with/without the ignition on. 😕

Hope this helps and the poster takes the time to let us know what the FIX was 🙄

Mike from MN.

 

[FFarr]

Does it appear that someone had an aftermarket amp installed in the trunk at one time? I have never seen "a battery disconnect and a jumpbox in the trunk" on an OEM install.

No, Delco amp with factory wiring.
WaveRunner-My rear leveling is inop and disconnected but I've pulled all the fuses (x3-4) and no change in current flow. Nothing appears to be on (lights, radio, stereo) I did however observe the temp needle have a reading, later pulled the cluster- no change. The 60a Batt1 Maxi fuse would stop the current flow. Could be an intermittent ign switch problem.