So I added a sub and amp to my HK system..still not 100% happy

[cubaniche]

Man, this is awesome info nizerims. Thanks for the links to the other threads from your previous post. I just read them ALL, great read!

Hopefully the Bose system is pretty much the same setup. I kinda miss the smallish 10" that was stock from the factory on my Cobalt SS/TC pioneer system. THe Bose sounds good but is missing the thump.

I am definitely going to be getting a sub later on but I want to find a creative way to do it and still have usable space in the trunk and not have a box rolling around.

Kinda like this:
http://buickforums.com/forums/threads/27976-Custom-Sub-Woofer-Install

 

[talan7]

I think I'll take my car back and have them rewire the amp somewhere else.

 

[eminelo]

show them this thread, i bet they can tap into the amp where nizerims showed us with no problems.

 

[nizerims]

Fo Sho

 

[saleen09]

These wires are FULL RANGE (low level) signal from the head unit to the H/K amp {front left/ front right/ rear left/ rear right}


*Keep In Mind* Just like kranz said in a different thread, "make sure you don't cheap out on the loc's", or Speaker Wire -to- RCA adapters.

HMM, great diagram.

So anyone else see any issue with getting a RCA/Preout device to split off the low level (most of the time cleaner/tighter than any LOC or speaker level) and driving an aftermarket amp through that route?

Would LOVE to not buy a Clean Sweep or AC 10 so wouldn't mind trying an alternate/lesser cost option.

 

[nizerims]

@saleen09,

One of the steps I took before I bought the Rockford 360.3 was, I kept the rear (low level) signal running to the H/K amp to power the rear door speakers.(I didn't have an amp for the rear door speakers yet).... From those 2 rear (low level) channels I ran 5 {five} (low level) outs, off of them (RIGHT REAR/LEFT REAR/RIGHT SUB/RIGHT SUB/LEFT SUB)....... At first I made my own "HOME BREW" perfect size RCA cables, from the (low level) signal to my JL amps,,, > with this stuff->

,,,, I got a 100' spool of Monster Cable 402 XLN from ebay. I used the Monster Cable 402 XLN (Xtra Low Noise) from my JL amps to the DOOR speakers and REAR DECK speakers, I also made my own RCA cables with it.....

So I divided the 2 rear (low level) channels a total of 7 times....... (granted the stock rear door speakers from the H/K amp are 2Ω-{full range} paper woofers and I replaced them with 4Ω- 3way coaxials), but at low volume I was getting ground noise through the rear door speakers..... IT wasn't BAD ground noise, my friend that is also into car audio couldn't hear it, but I could hear it.

SOME OF YOU MAY NOT GIVE A WHAAAAT, but I'm an audiophile......Ground Noise NO,, "It MUST be my "HOME BREW" RCA cables" I thought..... So I replaced MY XLN RCA cables with RCA converters and Kicker shielded RCA cables.......... Still,,,, ground noise at low volumes... (sounded like a turbo under the hood and a tiny one in the back seat)...... It was at that point that I decided to keep the stock head unit and go with a signal processor.

This is my "mock up" amp rack (like 6 months ago),,,, at the time of this story I had
1- SOUNDSTREAM 40 Farad Hybrid Capacitor
3- HD 750x1 JL Audio (subs)
2- HD 600x4 JL Audio (Components in front doors & 4 6x9's in rear deck)
1- Rockford Fosgate 360.3 signal processor
4- fans on a temp switch to keep all that crap cool....




The moral of this story is,,, IF YOUR GONNA GO HAM, BUY THE SIGNAL PROCESSOR!

 

[talan7]

I have the JBL MS-A5001 500 Watt x 1-Channel Subwoofer-Amplifier installed no. I am going to install the JBL MS-A1004 100 Watt x 4-Channel Amplifier and the JBL MS-8 MS Series Digital Processor to control it all. I'll use the 4 channel amp to power new front components and new rear 6 x 9s. I'll use the MS-8 channels to power new rear door and center channels. Any other recommendations how to hook this up? any more items you'll think I'll need in this system. I'll probably have them tap in before the stock amp for signal. I'm going to install the 4 channel amp because my local guy told me that the MS-8 isn't very powerful if I'm installing new speakers.

 

[nizerims]

@talan7


I read the MS-8 Owners Manual.pdf and I looked at the Tech Specs on your MS-amps (thanks for the model #'s).

I'm guessing,,,, since your MS-A5001 has Signal-sensing on/off operation that your local guy didn't run a remote wire.... (hashtagBecauseThatsWhatIWouldDo)

And I Remembered reading this...

It looks like the MS-8 needs a remote in wire, so we are going to go back to this.....

I think (it was almost 1 year ago) I used the Violet/Dark Blue stripe wire as a remote wire because the Dark Green/Yellow stripe wire turned on when I opened the door (like the lights on the center stack and the drivers info screen).

Any other recommendations how to hook this up? any more items you'll think I'll need in this system.

I would tell you to run new speaker wire, but that's a hell of a lot of work. Other than that your plans look good. It's going to sound amazeballs.



Before I go, check out this old ass Mountain Dew can......

 

[talan7]

Nizerims,
Thanks for the heads up. I had planned on removing my factory amp and just hooking up to the head unit itself. Can I do that? I don't plan on using the factory amp in my setup. It almost sounds like you're saying I need to keep the factory amp just for the turn on signal

 

[zacharyp1]

Please tell me where you were able to attach your power cable/fit it through the firewall at... I've been all up and down my '13 Regal and cant find a place to send it through without cutting a hole in the firewall.

 

[itsbmw]

there's a grommet up to the left of where the clutch pedal is(or would be if you drive an auto), it's a pain getting wire routed through there and you need to be really careful not to cut any factory wiring if you try to use it. There is a grommet where the steering wheel goes through the floor, theres more than enough room to keep the wire securely routed away from the steering column, not the best option, but it's another one for you, just in case you need it!

 

[zacharyp1]

there's a grommet up to the left of where the clutch pedal is(or would be if you drive an auto), it's a pain getting wire routed through there and you need to be really careful not to cut any factory wiring if you try to use it. There is a grommet where the steering wheel goes through the floor, theres more than enough room to keep the wire securely routed away from the steering column, not the best option, but it's another one for you, just in case you need it!

I've already tried to get through the grommet with a clothes hanger straightened out and taped to the 4ga. wire, pushing it through an "x" i cut into the grommet but it wouldn't budge. Ill try again.

 

[zacharyp1]

i got it figured out

 

[socal1987]

SO, (before the internet) I was that nerd in the library always looking at microfiche. {If you don't know what microfiche is, you've got it "way to easy" and probably need your ass kicked,,, you could definitely use a good SPANKING!

I'll just leave these (relevant) links here for the future members that were Born On Third Base.

How Do Forum Search Tools Work WITHOUT TAGS<-(NSFW)

JL W7 Vs Kicker L7

13 Stock Audio Wiring

New Sundown Audio E 10 2 ohm DVC Subwoofer

Anyone upgrade speakers yet

@talan7,

Before you go CRAY, try tapping into the rear door speakers instead of the rear shelf speakers.

TO FIND THE SPEAKER WIRES you have to remove the carpet (in the trunk) behind the passenger (right) tail light, to access the H/K amp. LOOKS LIKE THIS

THIS IS YOUR BUICK AMP RACK(fun stuff).... What you see here is the Buick Fuel Pump Module, but hidden behind the FPM is the H/K amp.
Just going by this picture, I think you can unplug the wires going into the amp, but if not, you need to grab one of these guys-

-to remove those 3 nuts so you can get to the amp.....
After you remove the plugs from the amp, you are going to peel back the black fabric electrical tape so you can get a good look at the wire colors.
Your going to be tapping into the Left or Right Rear Door speaker wires, so look for the GREEN and GREEN with a BLACK stripe wires OR the WHITE and BLUE with a BLACK stripe wires (as shown below).

______________________________________________________________________________________________
équipe de la rue de Buick™

As with my L7 vs w7 thread you are the "go to " Audio guy. Had this same issue when I hooked up my w6. I used the JL signal proccesor to eliminate it. Sounds good with stock speakers. They are next on the chopping block though. Got addicted and sprung for another W6 so Im waiting to get some more funds to get that h&k crap out of there.

On a side note. I am pissed that the 14's have the Bose set up. It kills that h&k system all day.

 

[BullsLawDan]

I'm kind of late to this thread, and new here... But is it possible to fix the "radio volume" issues in my 2012 GS by just replacing the HK amp with a similar spec aftermarket amp? Take the HK amp out, put another amp in a similar location, and put the existing wires into the new amp.

 

[Vincent guadarrama]

I'm looking for what wires to splice into for a aftermarket amp for my 2016 Buick lacrosse

 

[Bigsarge]

SO, (before the internet) I was that nerd in the library always looking at microfiche. {If you don't know what microfiche is, you've got it "way to easy" and probably need your ass kicked,,, you could definitely use a good SPANKING!

I'll just leave these (relevant) links here for the future members that were Born On Third Base.

How Do Forum Search Tools Work WITHOUT TAGS<-(NSFW)

JL W7 Vs Kicker L7

13 Stock Audio Wiring

New Sundown Audio E 10 2 ohm DVC Subwoofer

Anyone upgrade speakers yet

@talan7,

Before you go CRAY, try tapping into the rear door speakers instead of the rear shelf speakers.

TO FIND THE SPEAKER WIRES you have to remove the carpet (in the trunk) behind the passenger (right) tail light, to access the H/K amp. LOOKS LIKE THIS

THIS IS YOUR BUICK AMP RACK(fun stuff).... What you see here is the Buick Fuel Pump Module, but hidden behind the FPM is the H/K amp.
Just going by this picture, I think you can unplug the wires going into the amp, but if not, you need to grab one of these guys-

-to remove those 3 nuts so you can get to the amp.....
After you remove the plugs from the amp, you are going to peel back the black fabric electrical tape so you can get a good look at the wire colors.
Your going to be tapping into the Left or Right Rear Door speaker wires, so look for the GREEN and GREEN with a BLACK stripe wires OR the WHITE and BLUE with a BLACK stripe wires (as shown below).

______________________________________________________________________________________________
équipe de la rue de Buick™

I have a 2016 regal and there is something in my trunk in this location but not an amp. I tried tapping into the green and green/black wires in the driver side kick panel I saw someone else on the forum with a ‘16 said he put his LOC here and it worked for him but not for me? Bad Loc maybe? Got everything wired up for my subs and amp but can’t seem to get it to work tapping into the speaker wires of the car

 

[Daveberry717]

Ok, so I finally got around to having my amp and sub installed in my 12 Regal GS with HK system.
I'm still not completely satisfied. My issue with the stock unit was the bass. It didn't it hard enough and has bass roll off or bass elimination when you turn it up. This is still happening with the sub/amp setup. At lower volumes it has too much bass but when I turn it up past 20 on the dial, the bass pretty much disappears. I'm not happy with this. Does anyone else experience this? Is there a workaround? Also, I wonder if the bass roll off is coming from the head unit or the amp. It sucks that I put in an awesome bass setup only to be confounded by the stock system again

As others have mentioned. AudioControl has features specific to this exact process that most manufacturers use to keep the warranty claims down from woofers being destroyed. I used the AudioControl LC-8 in my previous Lexus in order to capture enough audio channels to then join together for a full flavor low level rca output. Most of AC's offerings support this bass restoration, cheapest entry is the LC-2, I think. Depending on what features you already have, the AC Epicenter is an amazing piece of hardware, going back to the late 90"s when I first experienced what this magic black box could do, and I'm sure they have only improved it's capabilities. Good luck