Switching from HID headlights to Halogen?

[triffecpa]

Has anyone done this before? My left headlight unit on my 2012 GS sprung a leak. Looks like the bulb and maybe ballast are fried now. Have checked Rockauto.com and the replacement light units for halogen lights are like $175 per side. The HID units are much higher priced (currently out of stock but I thought that they were $700 or something ridiculous). The ballast alone is $200 and the bulb is another $70. So my options now are to pull the bumper cover, try sealing the existing unit (of which success based upon other people who have posted on the subject is not guaranteed) and replace the ballast and bulb (about $300 total) or pull the bumper cover and buy a new left side HID unit (say $700) or pull the bumper cover and replace both light units with halogen units ($350).

Mechanically the halogen/HID units are the same, but I was wondering about the wiring side of the equation.

Thoughts?

Thanks
Tracy

 

[12GS6]

If you have a leak but the lighting works you need neither the bulb nor the ballast. You need the housing, correct? I've not really looked at mine, but I'd assume those parts are separate and can be migrated to the new housing based on previous setups I've dealt with.

 

[triffecpa]

The first time the headlight leaked I cleaned it out and dried it and applied some silicone to the top edge of the lens/housing seam. The light still worked. Did not remove the bumper cover and seal the rest of the unit. It leaked again and this time the light no longer works. Turn signal still works. So I need the housing and the bulb and likely the ballast now.

Tracy

 

[PurpleHaze]

The wiring connectors are different on the HID harness vs. the Halogen harness. It would cheaper to just replace the HID head light unit then it would to "modify" a halogen replacement unit in my opinion, because the wiring harness for the HID bulbs are rated for 30watts, the halogen are about 55w so the entire HID harness would have to replace for the halogen harness most likely.

 

[PurpleHaze]

The first time the headlight leaked I cleaned it out and dried it and applied some silicone to the top edge of the lens/housing seam. The light still worked. Did not remove the bumper cover and seal the rest of the unit. It leaked again and this time the light no longer works. Turn signal still works. So I need the housing and the bulb and likely the ballast now.

Tracy

I would just remove the headlight housing and apply silicon sealant around the entire housing seem to completely seal the unit if you do just buy a new bulb and ballast.

 

[12GS6]

Gotcha. In that case I once baked a housing at low heat and pried it apart to do a black housing. Not sure if this is feasible on these.

 

[nizerims]

Gotcha. In that case I once baked a housing at low heat and pried it apart to do a black housing. Not sure if this is feasible on these.

Nope.

 

[rtoal001]

Hello all,

I have a 2013 Regal, I have both of my lights gone. The plug is the same for HID and Halogen, the difference is on two pins, i have all lights working straight out, high beams, turning signals. The only ones that I have to check on are the low beams. The right side pins are where there is an extra one, the red plug is my factory HID assembly, and the black one is my new one halogen.

Do you guys have the wiring diagrams for the hardness?

This will save me a lot of trouble, otherwise I will use an electrical tester and verify each pin.

 

[rtoal001]

Ok guys just an FYI, they are a direct fit, just plug and play.

 

[The. McNiels]

Hello, our 2011 Regal Cxl turbo light had a leak in it. My husband dried it out and bought a new bulb and it worked for a sec then it cut off. We have the factory HID headlights and really can't afford to out right buy a new assembly, the are 600+. I was looking online to see if there was a way to convert the headlights to the cheaper halogen headlights. Someone PLEASE help, we can't keep riding without it.

 

[The. McNiels]

So it worked?

 

[Williamziam]

fwiw I've drilled tiny holes in the housing to let the moisture out on my Chevy with relative ease and success.

 

[Tdkurish]

Ok guys just an FYI, they are a direct fit, just plug and play.

The extra pin didn’t matter? I sure hope that is what you are saying.

 

[G-421905]

does it work? plug and play?

 

[bugspop1]

We drilled Tiny holes in the Tail Lights of my Wife's GMC Terrain.
They had the same problem, condensation would build up in the Tail Lights.
The tiny holes we drill in the bottom have kept the Tail Lights Liquid Free!

When this happens to my Regal's Headlights (or Tail Lights), I will try this method again.
But until it happens, there is no sense in tearing my car apart!
Who knows, maybe I should do some preventative maintenance instead of waiting for it to happen?

 

[Mackiesback]

We drilled Tiny holes in the Tail Lights of my Wife's GMC Terrain.
They had the same problem, condensation would build up in the Tail Lights.
The tiny holes we drill in the bottom have kept the Tail Lights Liquid Free!

When this happens to my Regal's Headlights (or Tail Lights), I will try this method again.
But until it happens, there is no sense in tearing my car apart!
Who knows, maybe I should do some preventative maintenance instead of waiting for it to happen?

As long is it is still sealed, leave it sealed. There is a good chance it will remain sealed for the life of the car.

 

[MN Regal owner]

After a long and expensive struggle with my 12' GS I finally decided to give up and simply replace the HID assemblies with halogen. I ordered the TYC factory equivalent headlamps from Amazon; installation was fairly simple since fighting many bouts with the HID lights has made me quite adept at finding the various torx screws and 10mm bolts hiding here and there.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T31P2TG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As described in other threads, the wiring connector does need to be turned about 2/3 rotation to align with the new plug but it clicks right in and works perfectly. The TYC assemblies already came with lamps but I've since swapped out the bulbs with Sylvania SilverStar Ultras which are a nice upgrade. I toyed around with replacing the amber turn signal bulbs with LED but the Sylvania bulbs available OTC cause 'fast flash' which is not easily cured as our cars do not use a flasher relay. Currently I'm just driving the car and enjoying having working headlights on BOTH sides of the car again.

 

[brmelland]

After a long and expensive struggle with my 12' GS I finally decided to give up and simply replace the HID assemblies with halogen. I ordered the TYC factory equivalent headlamps from Amazon; installation was fairly simple since fighting many bouts with the HID lights has made me quite adept at finding the various torx screws and 10mm bolts hiding here and there.

Amazon.com: TYC 20-9242-00-1 Compatible with Buick Regal Left Replacement Head Lamp: Automotive

As described in other threads, the wiring connector does need to be turned about 2/3 rotation to align with the new plug but it clicks right in and works perfectly. The TYC assemblies already came with lamps but I've since swapped out the bulbs with Sylvania SilverStar Ultras which are a nice upgrade. I toyed around with replacing the amber turn signal bulbs with LED but the Sylvania bulbs available OTC cause 'fast flash' which is not easily cured as our cars do not use a flasher relay. Currently I'm just driving the car and enjoying having working headlights on BOTH sides of the car again.

Can you tall me, I'm having the same issue on my 2013 Buick Regal GS head lights leaking and blowing out the Ballast. The TYC ( Amazon.com: TYC 20-9242-00-1 Compatible with Buick Regal Left Replacement Head Lamp: Automotive ) you posted will work for my car?

 

[Mteague072285]

Ok guys just an FYI, they are a direct fit, just plug and play.

So everything worked? I'm having the same issue and cant find much Info... did you have to rewire anything?

 

[MN Regal owner]

Yep, everything worked. The surgery lasted about an hour (since I had gotten pretty good at taking the faulty light assembly out) and the new setup works without any modifications. It's been almost six months now and though I miss the cool DRL 'eyebrows' I'm glad to have good working headlights again. As stated, I upgraded the standard halogen bulbs included in the new assemblies with Sylvania SilverStar Ultras and have been impressed with the overall light output of the setup. The light is not as white as the HID bulbs but I'm getting excellent illumination at night and when I hit the high-beams I get all four bulbs and can see for quite a long distance. The turn signals and DRL are yellow and each assembly has two of these bulbs - when using the turn signals both yellow bulbs flash. Though it's only been six months the headlight plastic is remain clear and still look like new. Very satisfied with the fix, MUCH cheaper than trying to keep the HID's.

I did not need to rewire anything, the existing harness connector is a little tricky to release, you need to insert a flat blade screwdriver and slightly twist to pop it loose. The connector needs to be rotated about 60 degrees to align with the new light assemblies but there is just enough slack in the harness to allow the alignment. I plugged it right in and everything worked perfectly.