Front strut yoke bushing replacement

Eggsbenny86

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2012 Buick Regal GS 6/auto
Have a loud clank or metal on metal sound when reversing the car with the wheel turned. Put the winter wheel/tire setup on and while underneath it, saw that some bushings seemed to be worn out completely (could see daylight through them). At first, wasn't worried thinking it was the lower control arm... turns out it's the "lower strut yoke" which seems to be buttoned up under everything else (if I were to replace it I'd have to take everything apart)...

Anybody done this job before?

Possible to press the bushing out fairly easily without taking it off the strut?



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I would spray with penetrating oil, hit it a couple times with hammer add some heat and knock it out with punch and hammer.
 
I have seen on other GM products people having trouble buying the bushings separate. Some parts stores have tools you can rent for this type of work? How many miles on the car?
 
I have seen on other GM products people having trouble buying the bushings separate. Some parts stores have tools you can rent for this type of work? How many miles on the car?
I think with where it's situated, it prob needs to come out and be put on a workbench or in some vice grips at least to get leverage if I am attempting to press out the bushing. Just from the way it looks... that's why I'm asking here to see if anybody's done it and what it entails...

Checked the Chilton manual and it essentially says yeah, gotta remove the lower control arm, the strut, the knuckle etc.

135,000 kms.
 
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Better look at both lower yoke bushings (facing the front of the car). Rears looked okay, couldn't see any tears... These look like they're definitely torn, yeah?
 

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Looks like component 17 and 18 in the diagram are the bushings that I'd need... and conveniently (at least on this site), not available...

anybody know how I can get a part # on those and try my luck elsewhere??
 
The Chilton manual shows only a complete unit along with the following notes as a FYI.

A NEW front suspension strut yoke may NOT come with steering knuckle king pin bushing studs installed. NEW studs MUST be installed by the technician using a press.

When REPLACING a front suspension strut yoke, always install NEW steering knuckle king pin bushing studs. Do NOT replace the OLD studs in an existing yoke. If the OLD studs in a yoke are damaged, replace with a NEW yoke and NEW studs.
 
looks like you need to purchase the yoke, need to find a junk yard because they are discontinued, part #GM 22812726
 
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I'm getting the exact same clank you appear to be. Do you hear it any time other than in reverse turning the wheel? I hear the same sound, at low speeds, when hitting a pot hole or rough pavement.
 
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OK, Over at the Caddilac forum there was the same issue going on. Some one did them and gave this information. Febest OPAB 004 and OPAB 005. Ebay or Amazon. It looks like it fits the Opel insignia and is the same as Regal? I got you contact information so you can call. You can google Febest to look at their site.
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OK, Over at the Caddilac forum there was the same issue going on. Some one did them and gave this information. Febest OPAB 004 and OPAB 005. Ebay or Amazon. It looks like it fits the Opel insignia and is the same as Regal? I got you contact information so you can call. You can google Febest to look at their site.
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You’re a legend. Thanks for sharing this!

Do you have a link to the thread on the Cadillac forum? Found it... no details on the exact procedure to replace them. I was hoping somebody came up with a way that you could press them out without having to remove the entire yoke.
 
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I'm getting the exact same clank you appear to be. Do you hear it any time other than in reverse turning the wheel? I hear the same sound, at low speeds, when hitting a pot hole or rough pavement.
For me it’s misty only when I reverse with the wheel turned, then straighten out (I have to do a sort of 3 point turn in my parkade each day).

I don’t notice much from the front at lower speeds. My rear makes a loud clanking noise at lower speeds over humps in the Road. That’s another issue I’ll have to tackle but likely won’t be as daunting as this front noise.
 
I'd bet your rear, lower coil spring insulators are toast. When I swapped over to the Eibach springs the rear, lower coil spring insulator fell apart when I pulled the springs out. Until I could get a replacement I had to put them back in and it sounded like what you're describing until the new insulator was installed. Part# 13330714 and I purchased them on eBay.
 
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Thanks from me also man, just saved me $300.
 
I'd bet your rear, lower coil spring insulators are toast. When I swapped over to the Eibach springs the rear, lower coil spring insulator fell apart when I pulled the springs out. Until I could get a replacement I had to put them back in and it sounded like what you're describing until the new insulator was installed. Part# 13330714 and I purchased them on eBay.
Interesting... I'll check that out next time I'm under it to see. I was also wondering if it could be like swaybar bushings, as it seems to clang and knock in the rear mostly when the car rocks side to side.
 
OK, Over at the Caddilac forum there was the same issue going on. Some one did them and gave this information. Febest OPAB 004 and OPAB 005. Ebay or Amazon. It looks like it fits the Opel insignia and is the same as Regal? I got you contact information so you can call. You can google Febest to look at their site.
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I went down a rabbit hole after this screenshot you sent, and reached out to a local Saab enthusiast / repair shop with the screenshot and explanation of how the 9-5 seems to have the same suspension setup (at least the hiper strut yoke design).

They emailed me today with part numbers and said they could get the bushings in within the next week. $25 for the one facing the front of the car, and about $40 for the one facing the rear (in $CDN). Not bad.

Now, to find somebody who wants to do it for me.


 
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I went ahead and ordered a pair of both bushings. I got under the car yesterday and both front bushings are shot, I could see daylight through both. I did tighten up the through bolts to the lower control arm and that eliminated all the noise I was hearing, they were just barely loose.
I think it is possible to press out the bushings with a control arm bushing/ball joint press by just unbolting the lower control arm, and loosening the left, rear frame bolt so you can swing it out of the way. I remember there being plenty of play when I unbolted the lower control arm when I installed the front Eibach springs. I'd much rather go that route than taking everything apart because getting the strut back in was a huge pain.
I'll be sure to post my insights when I attempt replacement in a few weeks.
 
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