2007 lucerne interior lights dont work when door is open

[Oldsmobuick]

There are 2 overhead console lights and 2 rear map lights in headliner. They all work (though drivers side console switch is intermittent)with their independent switches.

The lights that should come on when door is open have never worked.

I did replace a broken door handle.

I used attached elec diagram for reference. It is a 2006 cx i think and mine is a 2007 cxl. My assumption is they hopefully are the same.

Recently, I tested with multimeter the drivers door latch and could not get voltage signal on the 3 wires corresponding to opened/closed, or ajar when mechanically opening, closing and leaving door ajar.

The lock/unlock function works fine.

I replaced with nee drivers door latch assembly and still no interior lights.

I dont know but assume the potentiometer that brightens or dims the dash lights would turn on the interior lights when turned all the way to the right. It does not.

I have read that there is a door open or ajar notification in instrument cluster but havent seen it illuminated. Don’t know if my car has that function.

Any ideas?


Thanks in advance.

 

[2007LucerneCXL]

Check the harness inside the bellows between the door and frame for cracks or broken wires.

 

[Oldsmobuick]

Check the harness inside the bellows between the door and frame for cracks or broken wires.

Thanks for response.

Because the door locks open and close with no issue, I assumed the drivers door latch circuit has a complete power and ground circuit.

The ddm also has has the window and mirror switch controls and they all work.

However, I’ll take a look.

 

[Oldsmobuick]

Thanks for response.

Because the door locks open and close with no issue, I assumed the drivers door latch circuit has a complete power and ground circuit.

The ddm also has has the window and mirror switch controls and they all work.

However, I’ll take a look.

So checked wiring in boot and nothing unusual. Started to unfasten and unwrap harness and its gonna be a bear. May just try to test continuity with power removed on circuit from pillar elec plug to door latch on the black/tan, black gray and brown wires.

Concerning the latch, there are 3 mechanical positions that pivot.
Open(when door is opened

closed(mid) position(mid pivot) when door is closed

and locked(furthest position) I assume when door is locked.

I unplugged new installed latch switch and plugged in to old latch switch.

Got the following:

Black/tan wire which is door switch open circuit(contacts not made) wire gives 12 volts reading when latch is closed, which should be correct. Also, gives 12 volts in locked position.

Blk gray is door ajar circuit when latch is locked(3rd position)is 12v

Zero volts on brown wire in any position is door switch low reference.

I dont understand the circuit enough to know if the black/tan and black/gray is operating correctly. Maybe somebody can chime in.

Concerning the brown wire:

A "door switch low reference signal" means that when the door is open, the electrical signal sent from the switch is at a low voltage level. I got zero voltage out of brown wire in any position.

 

[Oldsmobuick]

So checked wiring in boot and nothing unusual. Started to unfasten and unwrap harness and its gonna be a bear. May just try to test continuity with power removed on circuit from pillar elec plug to door latch on the black/tan, black gray and brown wires.

Concerning the latch, there are 3 mechanical positions that pivot.
Open(when door is opened

closed(mid) position(mid pivot) when door is closed

and locked(furthest position) I assume when door is locked.

I unplugged new installed latch switch and plugged in to old latch switch.

Got the following:

Black/tan wire which is door switch open circuit(contacts not made) wire gives 12 volts reading when latch is closed, which should be correct. Also, gives 12 volts in locked position.

Blk gray is door ajar circuit when latch is locked(3rd position)is 12v

Zero volts on brown wire in any position is door switch low reference.

I dont understand the circuit enough to know if the black/tan and black/gray is operating correctly. Maybe somebody can chime in.

Concerning the brown wire:

A "door switch low reference signal" means that when the door is open, the electrical signal sent from the switch is at a low voltage level. I got zero voltage out of brown wire in any position.

Update for today, tested new door latch switch. No voltage there in any latch position.

I do have continuity from the brown wire at the latch to the brown wire going into the male and female large multi pin connectors and into the back of the power window/lock module, which I assume is the DDM(drivers door module).

Cannot get voltage reading on brown wire there at the window/lock module.

I assumed i should get a voltage reading there when i changed the latch positions. I got nothing in any latch position.

Maybe someone smart would like to weigh in. Please!

 

[WalmartTech21]

I took a look at the description and operation and the Official wiring diagrams and the courtesy lamps (the non dimmable ones of which you're referring to) are actually controlled by the BCM via signals provided by the DDM/FPDM though the GMLAN bus for the front doors, and directly from the latch assemblies for the rear doors. my question is, is it JUST the driver's door having the issue or is it all doors?

 

[Oldsmobuick]

I took a look at the description and operation and the Official wiring diagrams and the courtesy lamps (the non dimmable ones of which you're referring to) are actually controlled by the BCM via signals provided by the DDM/FPDM though the GMLAN bus for the front doors, and directly from the latch assemblies for the rear doors. my question is, is it JUST the driver's door having the issue or is it all doors?

Thanks for the response. Drivers door only, My focus has been on the Drivers door latch thinking that no voltage on the brown wire had to be the issue.

I did find a black ground wire inside the drivers dood pillar that had a little copper showing and repaired it. I then found again the schematic for the courtesy lamp, which I had previously seen, but not seriously considered.

Turns out the 2nd fuse i checked for that circuit was blown.

This car has had several electrical issues.

12 volt acc. Drivers seat switch, grounds issues, lights, varmints have chewed through fuel injector wires, other sensor wires, the brake switch sticks, etc.
Nothing has been easy on this car

I have checked every fuse in every piece of this car at one time or another it seems and I don’t recall if it was ever due to a blown fuse. But of course this time, it was.

I still don’t understand why I don’t get voltage on the door latch brown wire, but the courtesy lights now work, except the switch On the driver side. That courtesy light was intermittent, now it won’t work at all. Thanks.

 

[WalmartTech21]

Thanks for the response. Drivers door only, My focus has been on the Drivers door latch thinking that no voltage on the brown wire had to be the issue.

I did find a black ground wire inside the drivers dood pillar that had a little copper showing and repaired it. I then found again the schematic for the courtesy lamp, which I had previously seen, but not seriously considered.

Turns out the 2nd fuse i checked for that circuit was blown.

This car has had several electrical issues.

12 volt acc. Drivers seat switch, grounds issues, lights, varmints have chewed through fuel injector wires, other sensor wires, the brake switch sticks, etc.
Nothing has been easy on this car

I have checked every fuse in every piece of this car at one time or another it seems and I don’t recall if it was ever due to a blown fuse. But of course this time, it was.

I still don’t understand why I don’t get voltage on the door latch brown wire, but the courtesy lights now work, except the switch On the driver side. That courtesy light was intermittent, now it won’t work at all. Thanks.

I feel your pain; my 2006 has had several electrical issues related to water ingress from the sunroof drains being clogged. i've had to replace my BCM to Body sub-Harness because the pin for the rear door unlock signal was completely corroded off