91 PA Serpentine belt

[WaveRunner]

I have 91 PA 3800 series I. I wish to replace the serpentine belt and notice that the engine is connected to the body/frame on rt side near battery. Should I disconnect this and then jack up the motor to allow the belt to slip on/new on... will I run into problems trying to allign the motor and frame? Specifically...will there be problems trying to reconnect and is there any "tricks " to get the two points to line up?

 

[steppjohn]

Hi Waverunner,

Are you saying that the front engine mount (at the serpentine belt end of engine) seems to be inside the belt loop?
I had a '95 PA, and this was the case. I had had a '90 LeSabre and this was not the case. Sure surprised me when I tried to remove the belt on the '95. (I ended up leaving it on.)

My research found that, yes, you need to disconnect the engine mount to slip the belt out. but it seems that GM did provide for this by having a short spacer at the pesky bolt on that engine mount. I think you will have to support the engine and remove the bolt and knock out the short spacer and then slip the belt thru the space cleared when you remove the spacer.
Installation should be similiar, but in reverse.

I any of this is wrong, someone please chime in.... I never actually did it.

 

[WaveRunner]

Thanks for reply...I have been busy elsewhere and will get to it this weekend. Yes there is connection to auto frame with a "U" shaped connection and a bolt going through it. I suspected I would have to support engine and then jack it up a few inches. My concern though is "will it slip back down into the "U" nicely or will the motor shift. I just don't want a 30 minute job turning into a 2 hour job. I have to work in Condo parking lot and not inside. May take to cabin up north and don't want to get stranded. But Ithink it should be OK...just u bolt connection and idler I think? Thanks...

 

[WaveRunner]

WELL !! I later learned that I don't have to disconnect motor mount...thak god! Just an idler arm and the belt should slip off and the new one goes back on in reverse! Getting the right size belt is the hard part. Total time less than an hour!

 

[WaveRunner]

FIRST...take note that I was wrong on haveing to loosen the engine mount. Next, draw diagram on how belt goes on so YOU REMEMBER

Came back for the benefit of those that follow: First one has to determine what model engine the have. Generally there are a few major models. There are the pre Series 1; the L27 and L67 I believe? Then came the Series 2 which changed the engine construction but not bore and stroke. Check Wiki for better info here...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buick_V6_engine
May have to check VIN # before ordering belts. OR...most auto parts stores will ask particular questions to get you on right track. This is CarQuest part # K061025 and looks similar to my Gates #...which I don't have here. None the less ...mine was 91 PA Base model 3800 Series 1 L27. Most engines today have A/C.

Once belt is in hand and all the tools you need are one or two ratchets with flat pry bar. And two sockets...13 mm and 18 mm. Remove the back rear bolt on the Alternator. When about 1/2 way out use pry bar to lift Alternator a bit so bolt continues without stripping. Once alternator bolt out then change sockets to 18 mm to use on Idler bolt. With handle of ratchet towards front of car lift upwards and this should bring the Idler up a bit--it is spring loaded. With other hand remove belt of of idler and pulley to the rear. The rest of the removal process is easy--if you have small hands! LOL 😛 Installation is pretty much the reversal. Use ratchet and 18 mm socket ON IDLER BOLT LIFTING UPWARDS to allow room to slip belts back on pullies. BE SURE BELT IS ALL THE WAY ON --INSPECT ALL THE PULLIES BEFORE STARTING ENGINE.
TOTAL TIME-- 1 hour
COST--$45 plus tax
Good luck
MN MIke

 

[Doctr Mikki]

I know that this is an old thread, but for the benefit of those who may come along behind....

I have a '92 Park Ave, base model, 3.8 engine (vin: L). I did not have any probs at all with doing mine, with the exception of needing to use a lengthy breaker bar to give my weak arms an advantage.

Nothing to have to move, take loose, jack up,...you get the picture. Just follow the diagram on the radiator shroud, and you are good to go! Funny that there would be so much difference between consecutive model years.