This is very long, I marked my actual questions in red if you're not into novels. Thanks for any help!
These are imgur links, click through twice for a big version
Hi from Montana! I'm Sever, and I bought my RMS in March 2015. I've been lurking here ever since. I've never needed to post anything because the Roadmaster has been flawless! It had 135k miles, and I actually bought it at a local dealer along with a lifetime oil change scam. It works great for me; I only put about 1500-2000 miles on in 3 months but they're severe miles. I'm a snowcat operator and work year-round at a ski area. I come up before the road's even plowed, which can be a struggle. The road is partially unpaved and is badly washboarded. They're finally planning to pave it this summer, at which point I can overhaul the steering and suspension and stop beating the crap out of them.
The Roadie started using oil in Feb. (I had no idea there was an idiot light for that, thanks GM) I just added a little until my scheduled oil change. I asked the dealer to specify what was leaking, and their response was 'Everything', and that they didn't really have time to look anyway. Sigh.
I took it to a tire shop for an estimate. The sales guy called and gave the news like my dog had died: $1400. A lot of it was parts and I knew I could get better deals. My labor is free, and isn't worth much more than that, but with the internet anything is possible, right? I hate to use their free estimate as a shopping list, but it's the same place I got my $400 snow tires. The estimate included the oil cooler lines, timing cover seals, oil pan gasket, and rear pinion seals.
I still tried to get the best parts possible for the money; I really don't want to do any of this twice. I'm on a little break but in 2 weeks I need the Roadmaster to be my dependable DD again. I did some research ahead of time on this forum and others, bought a useless Haynes manual for giggles. Trying to do this all at once while the fluids are drained.
You see, I don't have a garage or much for tools at home. I'm using the shop at the ski hill. It has any tool you'd need, and a grease pit so I can get underneath. The air tools have been particularly nice to have on hand
Pulled these bumper lip thingies off first thing. Major ground clearance upgrade, perfect for busting through snow drifts. They're reparable if anybody needs a set, there's a small crack in one and they need paint but all the hardware is there. Just pay shipping and they're yours.
Started by pulling off the all of the little league gear. I had heard about deleting this stuff but didn't realize just how stupid it is. The LT1 looks cool on its own!
I almost screwed up and ordered a new coolant reservoir, but luckily found out I had an irreplaceable 2-nipple reservoir. It was even in the trash can already. I've flushed the cooling system in this car twice; when I got it and again this Feb along with a trans service. The coolant looked horrible before both of them. It ran out of the car clean when I drained it just now, but I need to get this dex-cool sludge out of the tank. I did some reading on removing it, and plan to take it town and hit it with the home depot purple degreaser and the car wash hose. We don't have a pressure washer here. Any additional tips?
Starting to look like a Porsche with all these engine parts back here.
I tackled the oil adapter first. The adapter-block gasket seemed to be leaking more than the actual lines, but there's oil and dirt everywhere. Should have hosed it off in town before I started.
I decided to grind the stud off, unlike this excellent write-up I'm following:
http://buickforums.com/forums/threads/24477-Modifying-LT1-Offset-Oil-Filter-Adapter-to-Remove-Cooler-Lines
I was extremely careful not to damage the oil level sensor while removing the adapter, and then broke it anyway trying to pull the plug off.
If I buy this, can I still use my old sensor? http://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/engine-oil-level-sensor-connector/duralast-engine-oil-level-sensor-connector/889303_0_0
It's $22 for the plug and another $30 for the sensor. I'll still need to solder the plug to the old wires, right? I'm leaning towards tying the wires together and just putting the plug in on its own. Will the oil level light be on? What is this red sealant I'm supposed to use on the sensor, red RTV?
I scraped and solvented the gasket but eventually wire wheeled it, which left it smooth. I also dropped the thing and of course it landed on the oil fiter side. What grit should I use to prep these, and the gasket goes on dry, right?
The felpro gasket overhangs the opening. This has to be the right part. Am I supposed to trim it, and the gasket goes on dry, right?
The JB Weld is curing right now. I need to get all the stuff I don't already have from town tomorrow, so I need to figure out what that stuff is exactly. More to come!
These are imgur links, click through twice for a big version
Hi from Montana! I'm Sever, and I bought my RMS in March 2015. I've been lurking here ever since. I've never needed to post anything because the Roadmaster has been flawless! It had 135k miles, and I actually bought it at a local dealer along with a lifetime oil change scam. It works great for me; I only put about 1500-2000 miles on in 3 months but they're severe miles. I'm a snowcat operator and work year-round at a ski area. I come up before the road's even plowed, which can be a struggle. The road is partially unpaved and is badly washboarded. They're finally planning to pave it this summer, at which point I can overhaul the steering and suspension and stop beating the crap out of them.
The Roadie started using oil in Feb. (I had no idea there was an idiot light for that, thanks GM) I just added a little until my scheduled oil change. I asked the dealer to specify what was leaking, and their response was 'Everything', and that they didn't really have time to look anyway. Sigh.
I took it to a tire shop for an estimate. The sales guy called and gave the news like my dog had died: $1400. A lot of it was parts and I knew I could get better deals. My labor is free, and isn't worth much more than that, but with the internet anything is possible, right? I hate to use their free estimate as a shopping list, but it's the same place I got my $400 snow tires. The estimate included the oil cooler lines, timing cover seals, oil pan gasket, and rear pinion seals.
I still tried to get the best parts possible for the money; I really don't want to do any of this twice. I'm on a little break but in 2 weeks I need the Roadmaster to be my dependable DD again. I did some research ahead of time on this forum and others, bought a useless Haynes manual for giggles. Trying to do this all at once while the fluids are drained.
You see, I don't have a garage or much for tools at home. I'm using the shop at the ski hill. It has any tool you'd need, and a grease pit so I can get underneath. The air tools have been particularly nice to have on hand
Pulled these bumper lip thingies off first thing. Major ground clearance upgrade, perfect for busting through snow drifts. They're reparable if anybody needs a set, there's a small crack in one and they need paint but all the hardware is there. Just pay shipping and they're yours.
Started by pulling off the all of the little league gear. I had heard about deleting this stuff but didn't realize just how stupid it is. The LT1 looks cool on its own!
I almost screwed up and ordered a new coolant reservoir, but luckily found out I had an irreplaceable 2-nipple reservoir. It was even in the trash can already. I've flushed the cooling system in this car twice; when I got it and again this Feb along with a trans service. The coolant looked horrible before both of them. It ran out of the car clean when I drained it just now, but I need to get this dex-cool sludge out of the tank. I did some reading on removing it, and plan to take it town and hit it with the home depot purple degreaser and the car wash hose. We don't have a pressure washer here. Any additional tips?
Starting to look like a Porsche with all these engine parts back here.
I tackled the oil adapter first. The adapter-block gasket seemed to be leaking more than the actual lines, but there's oil and dirt everywhere. Should have hosed it off in town before I started.
I decided to grind the stud off, unlike this excellent write-up I'm following:
http://buickforums.com/forums/threads/24477-Modifying-LT1-Offset-Oil-Filter-Adapter-to-Remove-Cooler-Lines
I was extremely careful not to damage the oil level sensor while removing the adapter, and then broke it anyway trying to pull the plug off.
If I buy this, can I still use my old sensor? http://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/engine-oil-level-sensor-connector/duralast-engine-oil-level-sensor-connector/889303_0_0
It's $22 for the plug and another $30 for the sensor. I'll still need to solder the plug to the old wires, right? I'm leaning towards tying the wires together and just putting the plug in on its own. Will the oil level light be on? What is this red sealant I'm supposed to use on the sensor, red RTV?
I scraped and solvented the gasket but eventually wire wheeled it, which left it smooth. I also dropped the thing and of course it landed on the oil fiter side. What grit should I use to prep these, and the gasket goes on dry, right?
The felpro gasket overhangs the opening. This has to be the right part. Am I supposed to trim it, and the gasket goes on dry, right?
The JB Weld is curing right now. I need to get all the stuff I don't already have from town tomorrow, so I need to figure out what that stuff is exactly. More to come!
