95 RM, possible optispark problem?

[audioworkx]

Possible, but I'm not sure!
The history: This RM was owned my an older couple (original owners) and well maintained, very clean with about 125K miles and no issues.

Several months ago one morning, after a heavy rain, I remote started my 95 RM, and when I went outside, it wasn't running... I key started it and it took some coaxing, but it started and ran OK, but there was some hiccuping when I revved the engine. Later that day, after I finished work, it started right up and ran about the same, still hesitation when revved. The next day, it ran fine, no hesitation, also no rain. All was well for a few months, then it started happening again, and at the time I hadn't realized that it might be a moisture issue, but I'm pretty sure it was after a heavy rain. It would start fine, but started to miss slightly when revved, and after about 2 minutes it started running rough and finally just died out and wouldn't start at all.
A few days later (no rain) it still wouldn't start, so I replaced the plugs, wires, and just for the heck of it, since it was inexpensive and easy to do, I replaced the coil. It started right up immediately and ran perfectly with no missing or hesitation... a few days later, it started happening again!
Right at this time, I lost my job, so the car sat for a month. I need the car now in order to get a job, so I really need to fix it.
I popped the hood, and noticed that antifreeze was dripping slightly from the water pump, and there was a large wet spot under the car. This probably was the problem all along; every once and a while for weeks, I swear I could smell antifreeze, but with help from a friend with mechanics experience, we did a thorough search and couldn't find even one drip, and the level never went down.
I managed to get enough money together and changed the water pump, threw in a new battery, changed the ignition module, and pulled the distributor and disassembled it. there was wear on the rotor, and a few drops of a thick oily residue around the outer edge of the inside of the cap which I cleaned up, but no signs of any moisture. I replaced the cap and rotor. I would have liked to replace the Optispark as well, but lack of funds meant that wasn't possible. Before I started the work, the car wouldn't turn over at all, after I did the work, it started up and idled fine for a few minutes, then started to fade. When I revved it, it did the same thing, hesitation, then finally died out and wouldn't turn over. (No rain.)
In the process I must have bumped the oil cooling line which started leaking, it was rather rusty. While changing that, I had to remove the clamp that holds it against the transmission cooing line which of course started to leak, so I replaced that. While doing that I must have moved the other transmission cooling line, and you guessed it, it now leaks and needs replaced. They where the only three lines that where original still left on the car!
Well, to finish my sad story, I haven't found a job yet, my unemployment runs out in two weeks, and I need this car to run!
I have put many hours into customizing this car (I'm a professional car audio fabricator), I turned it into a 2 door coupe, just needs paint and then I can start on the custom interior (when I get a job).
Could it be the Optispark unit? Is it possible to buy just the Optispark unit? I haven't been able to find one sold by itself. Or is there something else I should be looking for?

 

[The Roadagon]

I guess this is the first question that most everyone would ask, did the
car post any codes and if so what were they? Also what exactly do you mean by optispark unit? ed

 

[paart]

Since you replaced the cap and rotor on the optispark, I would look to other areas, before suspecting the distributor itself. New Opti's are fairly expensive, and will include another cap and rotor, which is nearly 1/3 the cost of the unit. The only thing that could still cause that sort of problem inside the distributor would be the optical pickup, and it's connector, but they are generally very reliable. But it is possible, that there could be an issue if the plastic housing is cracked. I'd look other places before digging into the Opti, again.
How's the Opti vent harness? If it's plugged or broken, it will allow moisture to get inside the distributor.
I'd recheck all the ignition wire ends for corrosion and proper seating at both the coil and distributor. When I replaced my ignition wires, they fit so tightly at the distributor, that I had trouble seating a few of the ends, due to trapped air in the boot.
I would check all the wiring in the vicinity of the coil and ignition module for tightness and corrosion, paying close attention to the ground connection on the head.

 

[audioworkx]

Thanks for the advice guys. Haven't checked for codes, I will do that...
And taking that whole mess off again would not be fun, I'm going to check connections first. I was referring to the pickup thingamajig.
It's just very strange that as soon as I put it back together, it started and ran, only for a minute, and it had the hesitation when revving, but it did run. I'm starting to think vacuum leak somewhere maybe? Storms expected tomorrow and for the next few days, I just can't get a break! I did find a detailed procedure for testing, I'll do that if nothing else is found.
I'll be back...

 

[turbostar]

If you have a vacumn leak you should have a fast idle. If the idle is normal,then you probably don't have a vacumn leak and you can look elsewhere for your problem.

 

[audioworkx]

Thanks T.
I was watching a Youtube video, a guy with a LT1 thought he had a bad Opti. He had what appeared to be the same problem I have, the engine would hesitate when revved, but idled OK, just a little rough. Mine however will start to die out after a short while, then not start. Someone there made a comment that they had the same problem as he did, and theirs turned out to be a bad temperature censor. This made me think that I might have the same problem... When you first start the engine, until it's warm, the engine is controlled differently than it is after it's warmed up... Hopefully I can quit guessing and wondering and get out there and search! Weather permitting, I'm going to fix the trans cooling line, a quick fix, then I can start checking for loose wire connections, although I don't think that's the problem, from what I've seen, the connectors and wire all look in good shape, but you never know. I'm also suspicious of the coil to distributor wire, gonna check that first to be sure I have spark going TO the distributor! I don't have a scan tool unfortunately, but I might be able to borrow one...
I need to check what I can through the climate control whozit thing. I read some on it a while ago, need to do a search!
I'll be back.
Dan

 

[paart]

The Opti is a very simple device. It consists of: 1/ A housing or body, 2/ A central (driven) shaft that holds the optical disk, and rotor. 3/ Bearings for the shaft 4/ A flat disk with two sets of holes punched in it, 5/ An optical sensor/amplifier with connector, and 6/ The cap and rotor. When the cap and rotor is replaced, most of the "wear" items are " taken care of". The bearings will wear eventually, but they can be replaced (with some effort -admittedly). The optical pickup comes out with two screws, if I remember correctly. This makes me wonder why folks are so quick to replace the entire unit with a new one.

After I replaced my water pump and Opti cap and rotor, my car developed a "no/hard start" issue. I suspected something with the Opti, but it turned out to be unrelated issue. The coil wire was badly corroded at the coil end.

Check your vent harness by pulling the hose off the plastic connector at the air inlet pipe right after the MAF. Some vacuum should be present with the engine running.

The climate control code readout information is shown here:

http://www.buickforums.com/forums/showthread.php?p=43614#post43614

 

[audioworkx]

Thanks for the tips! I didn't get a chance to work on it today, my body is sore head to toe after overdoing it this week between yard work and changing that water pump and distributor. God those wires are a pain in the butt! Took me an hour to get the first one the rest weren't as bad, but I had serious hand cramps by the time I was done. I looked at the climate control code page, very "cool".

 

[The Roadagon]

If you try and route all the ignition wires properly,it can be a very
time consuming task. Not only that but they are usually geasy, dirty and slippery which all add to the frustation of changing them. good luck
diagnosing your engine problem. ed

 

[audioworkx]

No PCM codes which surprised me given the no start condition.
I assumed there would be a trunk load there... a good thing I guess?
I'm off to the auto parts store to get a trans cooling repair line so I can attempt to start it, and check the spark out of the coil and at the plugs.

 

[audioworkx]

Nail in the coffin. I tried to remove the trans cooler line, rusted on tight. It felt like it was moving, but broke instead. I might have to junk the car, already 300 dollars in this repair, and now the radiator? I can't put anymore into it, I need a car to hopefully get a job. This sucks.

 

[The Roadagon]

I have seen some really inexpensive radiators on e-bay, Its been awhile but I think they are under one hundred dollars. I have seen a trick or two in my day and when people are low on $$$ they can be creative. I have seen a low cost set up that looks something like this. Get some very flexible copper tubing 5/16 or 3/8" bend it around a can with a diameter of about a foot. Wrap the tubing so you have maybe 10 or 12 coils, attach the coil to
your trans lines and forget about the radiator cooling lines.Be advised to place the coil where air flow is available. I believe our cars have a trans high temp light, drive the car until the light goes on, if at all, and you have a quick fix. I saw this done by an old man with a small block chevy and a powerglode trans, he actually pulled a good size boat home with this set up. Now I am all for fixing things correctly ,but sometimes money dictates our methods. ed

 

[turbostar]

Audio,wish I was closer. I have a good used radiator out of a 95 RMS that I would give you to help you out of the situation. Maybe someone closer has one also.

 

[buickwagon]

Nail in the coffin. I tried to remove the trans cooler line, rusted on tight. It felt like it was moving, but broke instead. I might have to junk the car, already 300 dollars in this repair, and now the radiator? I can't put anymore into it, I need a car to hopefully get a job. This sucks.

What broke -- the line or the radiator?

 

[audioworkx]

I got an unexpected but temporary reprieve! The local code inspector walked right past the Roadmaster without complaint after telling us that it had to be towed away because it is against the local codes to have a non-drivable car on your property in the city, even if it is inspected and insured. I still need a drivable car if I have any hopes of finding a job, but I have a little more time.

On the driver's side, under the top hose, the fitting for the transmission cooling line.... As I attempted to replace it, something inside cracked and antifreeze started coming out around where the threads of the line enter the plastic housing. There is a clip that holds what I think is a threaded insert for the line? I'm not sure. After my initial freak out, I thought about it and realized that I might be able to replace that fitting? If anyone knows about this, or can tell me where to find out, I might have a chance of fixing her. I still need to fix the no run issue, but I need to deal with this leak first!

 

[audioworkx]

I wanted to show this to those that may not know about this Roadmaster. I've been building custom car interiors for over 20 years, and for only the second time, it was my car, not a customers! If you go to my Youtube page at https://www.youtube.com/parrotpilot you can scroll down to a playlist of videos of the 95 Buick Roadmaster Coupe project. Everyone that has seen the half finished car in person loves it. Even now, broken down in my driveway I get people stopping to check her out. Love it, or the Buick purists that hate it, I'm sure you can see why I am trying to keep her alive.

 

[The Roadagon]

I watched a little of your video and you certainly did change the look of your Roady, I cant say that I would do anything like that to my wagon,but
it takes quite alot of skill to do what you did to your car. I hope you get
your car repaired enough to drive. ed