Ball Joints

[94-RMS-LIMITED]

I need to replace all my ball joints in my 94 RMS-Limited and the quotes I have gotten so far, to me, seem to be kind of on the high side.

Quotes include Moog ball joints, labor and wheel alignment. All 3 stated that I could NOT provide my own parts, the parts had to be ordered by them through their suppliers, due to "insurance/warranty reasons".

Midas quoted me: $975 (+tax on parts)
Mom & pop shop#1 quoted me $750 (Tax included)
Mom & pop shop#1 quoted me $725 (Tax included)

Is this average price to replace all 4 ball joints?

I got the feeling that Midas did not want to take on the job, since the guy I spoke to seemed to have a bit of an attitude when I told him I wanted Moog ball joints (he insisted that I use the ones that they order)

I found a local guy, on Craigs list. He said he can do them for $100 per side if I provide the parts (O'Relly Auto parts has the moog ball joints for $35.00 each (upper and lower), then I'd have to take the car for a wheel alignment, which be $90 at Midas. He states he has 20+ years as an auto mechanic and is SAE certified. (not sure if I want to go this route even if it's the cheapest).

Any advice would be appreciated, Thanks.

 

[buickwagon]

Ask to see his license first, then if all is OK, go for the independent. I've done that before when I just didn't have time to tackle something. A local guy, laid off for the season, supplementing his unemployment cheque for cash. Worked out very well, compared to some guy at a chain working piecework ("book value").

 

[paart]

Also, ask for a couple references from folks that have had him work on their vehicle.


Replacing ball joints is not like troubleshooting fuel injection. It’s one of those jobs that requires more “brawn” than “brains”. As long as it’s together with the new parts in place and the bolts tightened, and cotter pins installed, there isn’t a whole lot that can be done wrong. The design of the steering system makes it just about impossible to assemble anything incorrectly, or with the wrong parts. Ask to see the old parts, as a verification of the installation of new ones. Be sure the joints are greased, after installation.

Find an independent shop to do the alignment, rather than a “chain” service store. A good independent will usually do a better job than the “chains”, often at a better price. If you use an independent, tell him that you had four new ball joints installed, and ask him to verify (look at) the installation. It takes about 1 minute, and checking the ball joints is part of the alignment job, anyway.



BTW, how do you know that you need four new ball joints?

 

[94-RMS-LIMITED]

Thanks for the tips! 🙂

BTW, how do you know that you need four new ball joints?

3 months ago I had a brake job done, new front shocks installed, and the idler arm replaced, by my old mechanic - who retired and closed his shop.

He told me that all four ball joints needed to be replaced; when he had my car up on the rack, he showed me how the steering linkage "jiggled" when he rocked the tires in and out, up and down and left to right.

He said the tie rod ends were "tight" and didn't need to be changed.

Not only that I've been hearing clunking/banging noises when cutting the wheels all the way to the right and left when parking.

 

[paart]

It sounds as if the issue was correctly diagnosed.
Good luck with the job!

 

[SoCalRMW]

"I found a local guy, on Craigs list. He said he can do them for $100 per side if I provide the parts (O'Relly Auto parts has the moog ball joints for $35.00 each (upper and lower), then I'd have to take the car for a wheel alignment, which be $90 at Midas. He states he has 20+ years as an auto mechanic and is SAE certified. (not sure if I want to go this route even if it's the cheapest)."

Just make sure its not a "hammer job". Make sure he has the right tools to do it. Should have a ball joint press with proper adaptors. Not to say a good mechanic with a hammer, chisel and 2 screwdrivers cant do wonders, just not any old schmuck. I would ask him how he will be pressing the joints out. If he has the right answers, go for it.
Also, as far as the alignment, if it hasn't been adjusted since the ball joints were new, you may not need it. As long as it was correct before the ball joints wore out, should be real close with new joints in place. It shouldnt pull to one side or the other and no funky wear of the tires. Most alignment shops "set the toe and let it go". Thats the major wear angle. Takes a bit more time and money for shims to set the caster and camber.
Also look at the "A" arm bushings and make sure there is no chunks missing or other slop. That will throw things off for sure.
Best wishes with the repairs.