Black versus silver valve covers

Finallyflying

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Buick Ownership
2001 LeSabre
I got the alternator bolts mixed up on my 2000 LeSabre not realizing they are different lengths and the longer one made a hole in the right valve cover.

Looking for a new valve cover, but both the Dorman and GM ones are black, not silver like whats on the car. Do these come in silver, do people paint them or just leave them mismatched. I don’t think it will be visible at all once the injector shield is in place so really doesn’t matter but just curious. It’s a small hole so am also wondering if I could JB Weld it? Anyone done that?

Thanks!
 
Many years ago I did the same thing! No need to replace or remove VC, I repaired with GE 100% silicone but JB Weld should work to. It doesn't require much, but to allow it to fully cure, do not run engine for approximately 12 hours.
 
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If you are going to go this route, I would advise to use the JB Weld to hold the broken piece back in, rather than to patch over the entire hole. And wait more like 48 hours before starting the engine, or even longer depending on the temperature where you are.
 
I got the alternator bolts mixed up on my 2000 LeSabre not realizing they are different lengths and the longer one made a hole in the right valve cover.

Looking for a new valve cover, but both the Dorman and GM ones are black, not silver like whats on the car. Do these come in silver, do people paint them or just leave them mismatched. I don’t think it will be visible at all once the injector shield is in place so really doesn’t matter but just curious. It’s a small hole so am also wondering if I could JB Weld it? Anyone done that?

Thanks!
If you were back there by the alternator that would be the rear bank of cylinders by the firewall so ask yourself does it really matter what color it is? This is not a vintage Skylark or Lesabre with a V8. I replaced my front valve cover gasket yesterday and the valve cover is a composite plastic. By the way, what "injector shield" are you referring to?
 
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If you were back there by the alternator that would be the rear bank of cylinders by the firewall so ask yourself does it really matter what color it is? This is not a vintage Skylark or Lesabre with a V8. I replaced my front valve cover gasket yesterday and the valve cover is a composite plastic. By the way, what "injector shield" are you referring to?
Why yes. Color does matter. I am calling GM/AC Delco in the morning to find out the exact composition of the valve covers & injector sight shield so I can decide on painting them. Plastic parts, plastic paints, grease, oil & heat just don't seem to mix well. Most of the plastic paints out there Rustoleum, Duplicolor, other fancy paints @ racing parts store actually change the surface of the plastic/composite at a molecular level. Which could soften and affect the structural integrity of the part. Mine are warped from heat & Grandma driving with a bad water pump.

I was going to ask you if there are suggestions for painting them. Maybe this is where we both say. Enough is enough. Just install them. It's not a show car. Who knows? That being said I am so frickin' picky about certain things and others not so much. Some suspension parts & window motor/regulator I'm okay with Chinese import parts from AM-AutoParts or cheap Detroit Axle parts. Am-Autoparts is no longer a deal due to logistics & politics ppts COVID.

Yes, JB weld is my best friend. I use it for everything from appliance knobs, eyeglasses, patching holes in interior trim parts where the mounting clips tore chunks of plastic away even with the correct removal tools. I wouldn't be afraid of using JB weld JB-Weld High Heat . I called them yesterday and spoke to an engineer and asked a million questions about their products. I wish to share that this smart a_s used to clean parts with isopropyl alcohol or acetone after scruffing surface of materiel with sandpaper before using JB welded. Not good. JB weld recommends Scotch green subbing pads & dawn dish soap (plain blue or platinum) no fancy apple or flavors work best. I also use the shop air to blow off dust/debris before dawn degreaser.

Just received 2 genuine GM/AC Delco (NOS) valve covers...err.. Rocker Arm & Camshaft covers from GMPartsGiant.com :
  • Part No: 12590366 [COVER-VLV RKR ARM] (Black) (Driver Side..err front with oil fill).....EXPENSIVE!
  • Part No: 12590365 [COVER-VLV RKR ARM] (Black) (Passenger Side?) Rear--FUNNY! Very Expensive!!!!
We are talking about the injector sight shield (a/k/a the plastic cover over the top of engine), right? Hopefully you have a federal emissions car like I do. Not CA smog compliant with the extra air valve and pump in the way. Not to mention the rear engine hoist toward the firewall in the way.

Let's see what the forum has to add and hope we make the right decision. I wish to paint them since I have the entire car apart; engine hanging from fender hoist. Waiting for tranny parts because I wouldn't buy aftermarket or import parts for all things engine & tranny.

A pleasure chatting with you & the group. I'll let you know what GM says about the material of the valve covers. I called ACD today to find out the difference between rear coil springs #OEM GM 25674744 (high Performance) & ACD#45H2107 (GM#19186012). They couldn't tell me anything about constant rate or variable only that the GM SPO & some sites list the ACD#45H2107 as Variable Rate springs for my RPO F41(Firm Ride Suspension). Nope. They are not. I'm looking at them; took them. Went to the shop @ university to determine compression rate. Urgh! I get it. 20 year old car. Parts discontinued, but really? Sometimes the mature guy at the dealership parts counter knows, but they are all retiring.

We know more than they do!

P.S The quality of the Genuine Valve covers are just okay. The ridge for the gasket is okay, but the plastic around the outside edges is poorly made. Looks like someone took a belt sander with 30 grit to shave off the excess plastic. The inside cover and mounting holes were filled with plastic shavings, Expected more for $60.
 

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The injector sight shield that you refer to I just call an engine cover. My car sat for about a year and a half before I bought it and the engine cover can form the roof to a nesting place for pests. I had to clean out the edges of the lower intake manifold of bits of leaves and acorns. I took it off and put it in my garage. The car had been freshly detailed just before it was put up for sale but they didn't do the engine bay. The engine cover helps to retain heat in the engine which may be beneficial in the winter and slightly detrimental in the summer. Wouldn't it be better just to leave the engine cover off as it partially obscures those pretty valve covers that you're working towards? Like I said before it's not a classic Skylark from the sixties or seventies so I just cleaned them when I replaced the valve cover gaskets and that's it. No need to paint as they come out pretty nice just as they came from the factory. Have fun!!!

P.S. My other vehicle has chrome valve covers....1981 El Camino 350 V8 😁
 
The injector sight shield that you refer to I just call an engine cover. My car sat for about a year and a half before I bought it and the engine cover can form the roof to a nesting place for pests. I had to clean out the edges of the lower intake manifold of bits of leaves and acorns. I took it off and put it in my garage. The car had been freshly detailed just before it was put up for sale but they didn't do the engine bay. The engine cover helps to retain heat in the engine which may be beneficial in the winter and slightly detrimental in the summer. Wouldn't it be better just to leave the engine cover off as it partially obscures those pretty valve covers that you're working towards? Like I said before it's not a classic Skylark from the sixties or seventies so I just cleaned them when I replaced the valve cover gaskets and that's it. No need to paint as they come out pretty nice just as they came from the factory. Have fun!!!

P.S. My other vehicle has chrome valve covers....1981 El Camino 350 V8 😁
Yes the injector sight shield the beauty cover the insulator the engine dress and the kindling all names I’ve seen in gm documents.
Except the last one they considered it a “hazard” on w bodies for fire just like the extension for the oil cap and the exhaust manifold heat shield and the valve covers and some plug wire standoffs.

“BUT NOT IN ANY OTHER CAR PLATFORM DESPITE ALL THINGS OTHER THAN Heat shield and wire routing to be the same, they are completely safe and pose zero threat ignoring the times they did. Please don’t sue.” -gm

I thought the damn things were ugly on 3800. Only liked it on pre series 1 and my old Lx5 (3.5 v6) and tastefully on the Aurora northstar but not the Cadillac ones.
I have about 4 of them in my shed every time one came off I threw it in the back to be never seen.
As to your comment on the looks totally correct the rear cover on mine is black but not from being changed 😂

an older Buick deserves the ugly beautiful mint green

and gm officially says the reason for black was to distinguish a recall fixing cover from a OEM or just older for ease of dealers
 
If you are going to go this route, I would advise to use the JB Weld to hold the broken piece back in, rather than to patch over the entire hole. And wait more like 48 hours before starting the engine, or even longer depending on the temperature where you are.
If doing this, JB Weld is garbage. Doesn't hold a candle to a bit of baking soda sprinkled on a Cyanoacrylate based glue.
 
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I
If doing this, JB Weld is garbage. Doesn't hold a candle to a bit of baking soda sprinkled on a Cyanoacrylate based glue.
think it would depend on the type of jb weld because I’m impressed by plastic weld but the plastic bond made me sad

but I have no idea how it would handle oil washing, Underhood temps, boost(even with proper venting), or vibration.

if the product doesn’t claim to be good for any of that I wouldn’t say it’s junk

but tell me more about this big word chemically bonding agent
 
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think it would depend on the type of jb weld because I’m impressed by plastic weld but the plastic bond made me sad

but I have no idea how it would handle oil washing, Underhood temps, boost(even with proper venting), or vibration.

if the product doesn’t claim to be good for any of that I wouldn’t say it’s junk

but tell me more about this big word chemically bonding agent
I think it was invented in the 40s or 50s. I forget the clever name the original patent was released under but I believe the original brand is still available. Otherwise can be found in dollar stores or anywhere and also baking soda is easily available. I understand it's an old military field trick and when I have something particularly hard to glue back together (at which point it is usually more difficult due to previous failed attempts) I have never been let down with this method. I have later found it better to just use this method the first time, sometimes just sprinkling some baking soda first and then blowing it away so a light sprinkling remains, other times applying glue then baking soda on top then more glue on other surface. Test it out on some junk first and see what works for you. Work in a well ventilated area given the chemical reaction. 🤢
 
i love baking soda and using it in chemical reactions
my favorite was when a car battery blew up and I used a box i had for batteries still in my shed where i could find it so i could neutralize the acid on my chest and legs(thank god the tractor fender took most of the blast and acid) and only have minor scarring now after using biooil for a few years

Really a good way to start the morning
ah i miss 2018
so young

Fricken battery had to go boom and it makes it a nervous thing to work around car batteries. Especially when any damage is evident
 
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