Can't get a safety check until these are fixed.

[brian doerner]

I am working on a 97 Buick Century with 100,500 kms on it. It's a good car no rust thru the body. The windshield wipers work good when they are turned on but when they are in intermittent mode they'll park at the 12 o'clock position. I found this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_TBkMTN42I and did everything mentioned - TWICE to make sure I did it right. I noticed the guy in the video turn the "locking mech" with his hand..well..Unless U were AHRNOLD U wudn't be doing that with this one. Had it in the vice and turned it with a big set of channel locks. and then the guy says tighten it it to so many many newton meters or use an inch torque wrench to tighten the screw - I don't have a torque wrench so I tightened it with a mini ratchet...oh and the little spring broke which holds the "parking arm" when in reverse. I still have the same prolm.

I have an ABS light on but it comes and goes. How do I find what causing it and fix it?

A mechanic says it needs new front pads and rotors - but the brakes feel better than my own car - what measurements do check to see if this guy is just trying to make $ or not?
How do I know when they need replacing?
Thanx in advance.

 

[ryenie]

The front brakes you can do a visual inspection. Remove the tire, the rotor should be smooth, no grooves ridges or waves. Most pads have a groove in the middle of them, when them groove is worn out it's time to replace them, when the groove is worn there is a about a little over an eighth of an inch of pad left, I change mine between 1\4 and 3\16 inches, they are a little over half an inch new. They should also squeal before they need replacing. Once they start squealing you don't have much time left before they start to grind.

The abs light, o'rielys might be able to read abs codes. If not, it would be the easiest way, to find someone with a scanner that can read them. It will pinpoint the issue. Otherwise you can test each wheel sensor with an ohm meter. Videos available on youtube. but if it's intermittent you would have to check it while the light was on. It could also be a loose or corroded connector, or a damaged wire. When the light comes on and stays on a code is stored. Once the issue is fixed it takes something like 40 on off key cycles without a fault detected before it erases the history code so even if the light isn't on you should still be able to find the code.

The windshield wipers sounds like a peculiar problem, can't find a solution for your symptoms, they all have to do with not working at all, not turning off when switch is off, and not parking in the proper parking spot, but nothing about the arms stopping at the highest swing point instead of at the lowest swing point. All the videos point to the pulse circuit board housed in the plastic cover on the wiper motor. Or it has to do with a stop that is supposed to be in place on the crank arm assembly somewhere underneath it, not sure where though. http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/auto-p...ine/body-cat/wiper-and-washer-components-scat, you can use this to gather part numbers or to order from.

 

[brian doerner]

Thanx Ryenie! My settings must not be set properly. I did not know that I had a reply. I did change the rotors and pads on the front ( $65.25 including tax) and found the ABS sensors were not connected to the wheel assembly because rust had eaten the brackets away. I reattached them - NO ABS lights - I just changed the wiper motor (from the auto wreckers) and there is STill no difference! WTF! I can't bleev it. Now what? Steering column switch assembly? ( or what ever that is called) on the signal switch? Thanx eh?

 

[ryenie]

I think it might have more to do with the crank arm, or the circuit board attached to the wiper motor. It's the brain for the wiper motor, the switch only houses the input control. I'd think it is most likely that the crank arm is the issue. there is a known issue with the stop spring which acts like a limiter switch, it doesn't make contact if it's bent out of place, which was occurring because of ice forming in the crank arm. They modified the crank arm to fix the issue. But if you have to keep repeatedly re-calibrating the arm i would suspect an issue with it.

 

[brian doerner]

It's been a real pain in the *** making a new rear brake line for my 97 Century. The line has to be curved more than the brake line bending tool is able to make. Found a video on line where a guy made his own pliers..which I did & it really works well.( the guy did not mention that U'll have to use a sharpened concrete drill bit with a carbide tip to drill into tempered steel.) I also found after making my new lines that they both leaked because I installed the improper ends. ( more bad information from the internet saying all GM cars use double flares)Sooo.. I bought a bubble flaring tool and the FIRST time I used it the tip broke off of the "die". Son of a *****! Then I am looking at the fitting ends and they are not the same.Click image for larger version.


ID: 9918 and now I have to install bubble flares there's almost no room left on my newly bent brake line to cut off.Click image for larger version.

ID: 9919 Does Anyone know if these two different ends will make a difference? The one on the left is OEM and the one on the right is what I got with the new brake lines. I had to use a vise grip to get the old line off so the fittings are in pretty bad shape but cud be fixed up a bit with a grinder I suppose. Anyone know about these fittings?