ede smith
Member
- Joined
- Apr 8, 2021
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- 99
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- Buick Ownership
- Century
2001 Century
Symptoms: Hard start, have to give gas almost like old carburetored engines. The vacuum line had fuel in it so basically it was leaking fuel and flooding the cylinders. I had cleaned the IAC a few months ago and that helped with idling but not with the hard starting.
I ordered a Delphi Fuel Injection Pressure Regulator - FP10300 from Amazon for $42. It was cheaper than Rock Auto and shipped with Prime.
The first thing I did while vehicle engine was running, I removed the fuel pump relay, which was #19 under the hood fuse/relay box (#18 and #19 are together). After car died I removed the PVC hose, which was still a bit in the way as well as the PVC valve. I stuffed a paper towel in the valve cover and removed the vacuum tube on top of the FPR. I then used a T30 Torx on a 1/4 drive ratchet (the 3/8 I had didn't offer enough clearance) and removed the bolt that goes through clip on the fuel rail. At first it didn't want to come out but eventually while wiggling it, I was able to remove from fuel rail. I removed the clip and set it aside
Next to remove the line and this is the most challenging part. The videos I watched some people removed the accelerator cable and cruise control bracket. I couldn't get enough clearance to loosen fuel line fitting and it was cold outside. One of those times you say, I should have left this alone for another day. I backed off the throttle body bolt on the front side, removed the cables and was removing the bracket but it was still hung up. So I tried again and went back to the FPR and rotated, pulled and lifted more. I was able to get it high enough to get clearance to get some wrenches on the fitting. The bottom fuel line nut was either a 24 or 22mm. The size for the hex on the FPG was a 15/16". I removed it by turning wrenches away from each other and tightened by drawing them towards each other.
Before installing I took some clean engine oil and applied to both internal and external seals. I would say re-installing is much easier than removing it. The only issue was don't push FPG on the fuel rail all the way before the clip. It needs clearance to go over the rail and the round portion of regulator will prevent it from sliding in if seated all the way.
After reassembly I started it up and she started right away albeit she was idling fast which has been an ongoing issuee. The second or third time the fast idle went away which is something I have done dealing with it in the past. I am hoping the computer will reprogram mix and maybe the fast idle will stop. Final note, loosening the throttle body bolt or accelerator cables to gain clearance in hindsight was unnecessary.
Hope this helps somebody.
Symptoms: Hard start, have to give gas almost like old carburetored engines. The vacuum line had fuel in it so basically it was leaking fuel and flooding the cylinders. I had cleaned the IAC a few months ago and that helped with idling but not with the hard starting.
I ordered a Delphi Fuel Injection Pressure Regulator - FP10300 from Amazon for $42. It was cheaper than Rock Auto and shipped with Prime.
The first thing I did while vehicle engine was running, I removed the fuel pump relay, which was #19 under the hood fuse/relay box (#18 and #19 are together). After car died I removed the PVC hose, which was still a bit in the way as well as the PVC valve. I stuffed a paper towel in the valve cover and removed the vacuum tube on top of the FPR. I then used a T30 Torx on a 1/4 drive ratchet (the 3/8 I had didn't offer enough clearance) and removed the bolt that goes through clip on the fuel rail. At first it didn't want to come out but eventually while wiggling it, I was able to remove from fuel rail. I removed the clip and set it aside
Next to remove the line and this is the most challenging part. The videos I watched some people removed the accelerator cable and cruise control bracket. I couldn't get enough clearance to loosen fuel line fitting and it was cold outside. One of those times you say, I should have left this alone for another day. I backed off the throttle body bolt on the front side, removed the cables and was removing the bracket but it was still hung up. So I tried again and went back to the FPR and rotated, pulled and lifted more. I was able to get it high enough to get clearance to get some wrenches on the fitting. The bottom fuel line nut was either a 24 or 22mm. The size for the hex on the FPG was a 15/16". I removed it by turning wrenches away from each other and tightened by drawing them towards each other.
Before installing I took some clean engine oil and applied to both internal and external seals. I would say re-installing is much easier than removing it. The only issue was don't push FPG on the fuel rail all the way before the clip. It needs clearance to go over the rail and the round portion of regulator will prevent it from sliding in if seated all the way.
After reassembly I started it up and she started right away albeit she was idling fast which has been an ongoing issuee. The second or third time the fast idle went away which is something I have done dealing with it in the past. I am hoping the computer will reprogram mix and maybe the fast idle will stop. Final note, loosening the throttle body bolt or accelerator cables to gain clearance in hindsight was unnecessary.
Hope this helps somebody.
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