Lets talk hose clamps

Which hose clamp is better?


  • Total voters
    5

century61

Full Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2008
Messages
620
Reaction score
198
Points
43
Location
Indiana
Buick Ownership
2008 Buick Lucerne 3.8 liter
So, After replacing my radiator I do have a small leak that developed. No biggy. However, I got thinking about the two basic hose clamps in use. You have the Constant pressure clamp you find on almost all cars and then you have the screw type. Which do you think is better?

I am not too big a fan of the CPC type. They are a pain to work with. On older cars they are pretty mangled up and hard to grip. They do make a tool for them though - If your interested here is a link:


Other's will tell you that the screw type will eventually leak and over tightening will crack your radiator pipe.

Well, Vote here and lets hear your horror stories too 😉
 
Screw types are easily available and no special tools needed for removal. On many older vehicles the OEM style clamp was usually one item that got tossed as they were just a pain to work with.
 
What I have experienced is that the constant pressure clamps are hard to work with. The post above, I bought the tool for working with them. I had some amazon money left so it made the tool price less painful. I think after a while the tabs (if I can call them that) on the cpc get all bent up and then they do not release well. I had one where I had to cut it off with my dremel. Then it seems they have to go back to their original position on the hose or they will start leaking.

The only thing about the screw on clamps is that I am afraid to over tighten them and crack the plastic pipes on the radiator and what not. I did see a video where someone took a piece of metal pipe cut to size and inserted it inside the radiator plastic inlets (pipes?) and used that as support.
 
My lower radiator hose is leaking after the radiator replacement. Only leaks when it sits after reaching full temps. So, I got my tool and tomorrow I am going out to enact revenge on that pressure clamp and put on a screw type clamp.

I now kinda understand these pressure clamps. They are good until you remove them. Then they have to go exactly back where they were to be effective - IF they still work.
 
______________________________

Help support this site so it can continue supporting you!
Yes CP clamps can be difficult to work with if you don't have the proper tools. That being said I have the tool that you listed in post #1. Mine is not the same brand but it's the same style. I purchased the tool when I had to replace the heater core on my first '97 Bonneville as I couldn't get in there with conventional pliers or slip-joint pliers. The tool is a copy of the original tool which is a lot more expensive. I believe it's a British tool made by Mayhew.

I just replaced my radiator using the original CP clams and have no issues. The CP clamps do a better job of clamping as the seem to spread the clamping force more evenly. The key to working with them is how you position them so that you can release them with your "Channel locks" to get maximum leverage.
I used new hoses when I replaced the radiator so that positioning of the clamps would not be an issue.
 
Yes CP clamps can be difficult to work with if you don't have the proper tools. That being said I have the tool that you listed in post #1. Mine is not the same brand but it's the same style. I purchased the tool when I had to replace the heater core on my first '97 Bonneville as I couldn't get in there with conventional pliers or slip-joint pliers. The tool is a copy of the original tool which is a lot more expensive. I believe it's a British tool made by Mayhew.

I just replaced my radiator using the original CP clams and have no issues. The CP clamps do a better job of clamping as the seem to spread the clamping force more evenly. The key to working with them is how you position them so that you can release them with your "Channel locks" to get maximum leverage.
I used new hoses when I replaced the radiator so that positioning of the clamps would not be an issue.
I should have used new hoses. I guess I live and learn. Hoses look good though. Man, Its 27F outside, Snowing and windy. I have lost my window of opportunity to work on the car. 🙁

I guess what I will do for now is get out there with a screw clamp for a temp repair and fix this leak when the weather gets better. Hope your having a good Sunday.
 
Thankfully I have no "pressing" issues on my Lesabre right now. I too am waiting for things to warm up here on Long Island. I have to do my UIM and LIM gaskets plus lower control arms.
 
Screw clamp will be fine as another reason not to use the factory clamps they don't always work as designed with age. Picked up a used K-D Tools 7pc geared pliers some time ago for getting to those hard to reach areas with OEM type hold downs and pesky rear plugs. I've seen them show up on eBay $15-20 and it's money well spent for working on any vehicle.
s-l140.webp
 
______________________________

Help support this site so it can continue supporting you!
Thankfully I have no "pressing" issues on my Lesabre right now. I too am waiting for things to warm up here on Long Island. I have to do my UIM and LIM gaskets plus lower control arms.
I have to do the control arms, Tie rods and then I have to replace my front coil springs. I bought Monroe quick struts and they are too stiff. I have been driving with them for too long. Finally, I found I can get the softer ones - hope they are still available.
 
There was a post on the Lesabre forum where the OP went through the same issue on Monroe struts. Original per Monroe spec were too stiff and kicked the front up, Monroe came up with another set and part# which is strange why they wouldn't offer as a option to begin with.

Hopefully the new ones will work out.
 
I have to do the control arms, Tie rods and then I have to replace my front coil springs. I bought Monroe quick struts and they are too stiff. I have been driving with them for too long. Finally, I found I can get the softer ones - hope they are still available.
I have tie rod ends in stock as well along with some Monroe Quick Struts. I've used them before on an Olds 88 and was pleased with them. 😉
 
I have tie rod ends in stock as well along with some Monroe Quick Struts. I've used them before on an Olds 88 and was pleased with them. 😉
I have a hear-able wobble in the front end when I turn right. So, Considering the car has now 155,500 miles on it I am going to replace the control arms and inner/outer tie rods. I just do not want to replace like the outer tie rod (s) and then later have to do the inner ones. Just get them all in one shot.
Thank you for the reply, 🙂
 
______________________________

Help support this site so it can continue supporting you!
BTW --- That tool I bought. Well, It does work but the same old problem - Not enough room to work on the lower radiator hose. I have read a lot of reviews that the tool breaks. Specifically the cable "ends" that are pressed on will give out. I looked over all the different ones on amazon and they are all basically the same. I think they all made them just a little different so there is no patent problem.

To day I went out and put a screw clamp on the lower radiator hose and clenched my teeth, Tightened it right up. I was scared I would crack the plastic radiator outlet. Drove it around and no leaks yet. If it still leaks I will have to take it all apart again and replace the hose. That would not make my day. I want to get this done so that I can move on to the control arms and tie rods. Then I will mull over the coil replacement.
 
UPDATE: I am returning the hose clamp tool. Not that its defective or anything really. Its just I found this instead for a lot less money:


Also, My upper and lower radiator hoses are leaking. I get to take it back a part. I am going to go with the GM pressure clamps only and I am also going to replace the upper and lower hoses. As far as I know they might even be original to the car. My thinking is that I have a small pin leak on the hoses or the original GM clamps are bad/ Hoses might even just be worn out. I have ordered up the hoses from Rock Auto.

I like the above kit because you get more for about 20.00 less.

Nothing can depress you better than spending a lot of time putting in a new radiator only to have it leak on you. They are not large leaks. Just enough to leave a small puddle on the ground after driving it a while. When its cooled down it does not leak. So, My thinking is that the hoses are just kinda deteriorated a bit and /or the original GM clamps are getting weak?

Parts arrive Saturday. I will be doing this actually monday because of better weather. If it doesnt rain then maybe Sunday.
 
Hopefully the new hoses will resolve your issues. Just chalk it up as a learning experience. I had my radiator hoses "in stock" already so that when my radiator failed I was prepared. 😉
 
Sorry, I have been pretty busy and not able to reply to this thread in a while. I want to update everything here concerning hose clamps and such. So, I tore down the car just this last Saturday because of the excellent 70 F weather and no rain! 🙂 . When I finally pulled the old hoses off they looked relatively in good condition. However, You can see where the hose clamps went on. Now, On the lower hose I have the GM original tension clamps. The upper radiator hose has the screw on type. Here is where the problem lies for these leaks - The leaking only occurred under normal pressure in the system (at operating temp).

What happens is this - When you remove the clamp from the hose they say to replace it back to where it originally is. This is because if you do not you will introduce a weak area in the clamping action of the clamp. The weak area is where the clamp was on the hose before you removed it. You will see that the hose has compressed over time. When you do not put the clamp back to its original position then those compressed areas all become 'valley's' under the clamp. They will not have as much pressure from the clamp because the clamp is riding over them. I think the same situation presents itself from the screw type clamps. Therefore, The hoses will leak under pressure but probably not after the car has cooled to air temp (no pressure).

With that in mind, I elected to replace the hoses. Seems fair as I do not know how long the hoses have been on the car and the car is high mileage. It would be a pain to have to rip the front apart again at a later date because of a leak or hose failure. For added protection, I used some red loctite on the radiator upper and lower ports. Then let it sit overnite for the loctite to totally dry. Sunday morning I finished reassembling the front end and bleeding the system. I am happy to report that there are no leaks 🙂 .

I think no matter which clamp you decide to use, Your going to have low spots (compressed areas on the hose from the clamp) and some loctite is a good measure. Thinking ahead, Someone will say "just move the clamp to a good area of the hose". Well, I would not trust that area of the hose that the clamp originally sat at - unless the hose is really new. Better to just replace the hoses.
 
______________________________

Help support this site so it can continue supporting you!
Back
Top