Need newbie help for 94 century

[movs]

Hey all

I'm new to buicks and i'm having a hard time understanding all the electronics that make that car works properly!!

I tried different places to get answer for my problem but i just cant get a good straight answer to get me starting!

first off my grand-pa gave me that car last year and it was working well. i did notice that it would bogg a little bit when going up hill before it would downshift but it was easy to get away with it....now i parked the car for the winter and i got it out 2 weeks ago. the battery was dead and it would always stall after like 2 min. SO i put in a new battery and it help a bit. i thought it needed to be opened up to clear everything out so i took it for a ride. i couldn'T stop else it would stall so i just kept going and it bogg alot on take off and whenever it would hit overdrive so i constantly had to make it downshift. on my way back it started to backfire in the intake and it did have enough power to climb a 3% hill and it was bogging HARDCORE.😕

I parked it changed the plugs and wires, removed and clean the trottle boddy assembly and put everything back in. Now it idles for like 20 min without stalling and i can put it in drive or reverse in that period without any problems. after that it will slowly bog down and stall unless i rev it a bit higher. The check engine will come and go at random periods. I beleive there'S somekind of a heat sensitive sensor or something that causes that issus but i don't know what it is!!! I also noticed that when it's about to stall and i give it gas there's black smoke coming out the exhaust like if it was running too rich at idle and then it goes back to normal????

Any input from someone who had a similar issue or anything to put me on the right track would be AWESOME.

 

[Mr. Brownstone]

Find out what DTC's are setting causing the check engine light to come on. Might have a plugged catalytic convertor, fried fuel pressure regulator, or both, or something else.

 

[movs]

ok i'll try that.....i know ODBII came in 96 and is usualy a purple plug but what is that hookup under the dash??? Also what is the procedure to get the codes for the check engine??? i remember that i could use anykid of connector in a plug on the passenger side that would blink the check engine light but i can't find anything on that buick!!!😕

 

[karlmach1]

movs,

I think the 1994 is essentially the same as the 1995 (I used to own)... and if so I think it uses an "ALDL" (not "OBD") connector, located beneath the dash/steering column. I have a scanner (the ACTRON CP9150 updated software/firmware and adapters/connectors for GM, FORD, CHRYSLER) which can be used on vehicles all the way back to 1984. I have used that scanner on my 1995 Century Custom... but as you indicated, a scanner is not always required to READ the trouble codes which have been stored...

Check out this web page: http://www.troublecodes.net/GM/ ... it shows you the "ALDL" pin-outs... and gives you the procedure to follow for

* getting the stored codes

* clearing stored codes (but be sure you have the RADIO CODES, if needed--if/when you decide to disconnect the BATTERY)

* browse the table to locate a LINK which is specific to your VIN's ENGINE (year+engine) CODE

* alternatively, scrolling down to the bottom of that page, you'll find interpretation of GM's "generic" codes

hth

 

[rtabish]

the TCC solenoid in the tranny is often bad with these cars. the three speed auto is easier to fix than the 4 speed OD tranny,
The problem you are experiencing is due to the torque converter clutch not disengaging.
This is a very common problem in the 440T4 transmissions used around that time. The cure is to have the torque converter clutch solenoid in the valve body replaced; along with this repair the standard procedure is to also install a screen into the TCC passage in the valve body and clean the valve body if needed. The usual cost for this type of repair is around $350.

​

 

[movs]

the TCC solenoid in the tranny is often bad with these cars. the three speed auto is easier to fix than the 4 speed OD tranny,
The problem you are experiencing is due to the torque converter clutch not disengaging.
This is a very common problem in the 440T4 transmissions used around that time. The cure is to have the torque converter clutch solenoid in the valve body replaced; along with this repair the standard procedure is to also install a screen into the TCC passage in the valve body and clean the valve body if needed. The usual cost for this type of repair is around $350.

I understand that the issue your describing would make the engine stall when it's warm and you come to a stop as it wouldn't desengage. But my issue happens when the car is in parked or in neutral and putting it in gear just makes it stalls faster because it can't barely keep running in neutral after 10 minutes.



I went and check the car this week end to try to get the code reading and notice i dont have the ``B`` pin???? i guess since i dont have it i will need to get a scanner to check for stored codes? Could anyone tell me what color is the wire for the B pin i might be loose under the dash with a bunch of other wires.

Also, i was reading about the intake manifold gasket always going bad could this create the problem i have know?

thanks guys for all your input

 

[karlmach1]

I went and check the car this week end to try to get the code reading and notice i dont have the ``B`` pin???? i guess since i dont have it i will need to get a scanner to check for stored codes? Could anyone tell me what color is the wire for the B pin i might be loose under the dash with a bunch of other wires.

movs,

I have the scanner & ALDL adapter-connector, so when I checked my 1995 century it wasn't a problem for me. Unfortunately, I no longer have neither that car nor the manual for it. So I can't help you with wiring/pin-outs/color-codes. But places like AutoZone & AdvanceAuto do "scans" for free... maybe some autoparts store near you would "scan" it for you (although, they need a scanner capable of reading codes -- prior to OBDII)?

Perhaps a Haynes or Chiltons "manual" would have the wiring diagram, and details which you seek? Again, any auto parts store should have a manual (perhaps you can look at it, without having to buy it?).

Just as an FYI ... there are "wiring diagrams" available, online, for a FEE (typically about $4 apiece) ... check-out this site:
http://www.wirediagram.com/buick.htm

hth -- and good luck!

 

[rtabish]

i wonder if it isn't just a simple issue like a plugged fuel filter or a plugged exhaust system. not a chance you got a mouse nest built up in the muffler, eh?😕

edit; i went to another buick century forum and found that a guy with similar symptoms actually went through the process of elimination with his car, taking it to a mechanic and getting the codes read and installing different things and still had the same problem through all of it. one day he was driving home from work and his catalytic converter blew out. he ended up replacing his exhaust system to fix his problem. i am assuming that letting a vehicle sit for long periods of time will create a gas tank full of crappy gas that ends up doping up the cat. it is easy enough to check if you have someone push on your gas peddle and you check what kind of exhaust your are getting out. i don't know if it will help you, but it makes an interesting read if you follow back to his first post.
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=71893

i am following your thread because my 93 is behaving the same way....not as bad as yours, but i don't want it to get that way either. i am pretty interested in your outcome.

 

[movs]

you're right! My oncle is a ex cab driver and he had the same car and told me about is issue with those catalytic converter. i put his hand at the tip of the exhaust and the flow seemed pretty descent according to him and the car runs awsome for the first 10 min or so. i will try to see if i can unplug the exhaust this week end and let it run to see if it might do the trick.

What i've done to the car up to date is change the plugs and wires and cleaned the throttle body including mafs sensor, air sensor and everything around it. i could tell a big difference after i've donne all that but i guess it was just some little adding to the problem. I'm looking for a cheap scanner to use this weekend and see what kind of codes i'm getting.

I'm pretty sure it's something reacting to the engine temperature that is sending a bad signal but there's so many sensors on that thing that works in parallel that it makes it very difficult to pin point. Gee i miss my Vdub!!