Tips on removing twist lock connector on throttle body - p2176/p2101

[12GS6]

Looking for tips on removing twist lock connector on throttle body - p2176/p2101

So for about a month I've had a persistent p2176 (throttle position not learned) code. I initially thought it was related to a failing battery (or possibly alternator charging issue). After replacing the battery the problem persists. And today it threw p2101 (first time) which relates to tac performance. Oddly enough it also threw a service stabilitrak code. I say odd because I had an abs light along with the service stabilitrak light on for months before I had the body codes read (I only have an elm327 and torque pro) which narrowed down my search and finally found my cracked tone ring, replaced the lr hub and it cleared on its own after a few minutes of driving.

It will only throw these codes (p2176 and p2101 - I don't know the stabilitrak code and it cleared itself again when I cycled the engine a few times to get it out of limp mode) and go into limp mode after the car is fully warm and parked for just a few minutes - today it was the 3-5 minutes it took to walk in and grab my son from daycare. If it sits longer it rarely if ever does it. Cold starts in the morning, never does it. It has to be warm and shut off first.

So. I have a brand new throttle body ready to put on, but welcome any suggestions on anything else to look at. I'm thinking if this doesn't fix it it is pcm/wiring related which makes me cringe. I did notice the shitty 2 piece charge pipe design allows oil to get blown all over various components in the area including the backside of the pcm. I'm hoping it's just enough made it through the intercooler and has damaged the tb and not the pcm.

Most importantly...how do I get this damn twist lock connector off? I can twist it 1/2" or so which I'm not sure is enough. I'm afraid to tug too hard as I need it to work on the new throttle body.

Edit>>tonight it also threw p0010 cam position actuator, p0106 manifold absolute pressure, and b2aaa which is a bogus/ghost body code.

Ironically, I have a set of new cam actuators I planned on putting in as well as an evap purge solenoid. However I feel like a trip to the dealer is necessary at this point. I'll pay the $125 diagnostic fee if they can figure it out and do a charge back if it resurfaces and they try to charge me again....given I can throw parts at it.

 

[12GS6]

Re: Looking for tips on removing twist lock connector on throttle body - p2176/p2101

After this onslaught of codes it's not running right even after clearing them and cycling the ignition until it did not go into reduced power mode. So I could go over 40mph, but....i went to get on it after I picked up my son merging on the highway and it's like I was pulling a trailer. I pulled out the torque app and it showed at most 42% throttle with my foot to the floor.

A pic to enjoy

- - - Updated - - -

Ignore the p0420 I was catless a hell of a long time before this shit started.

 

[dbruce]

Cam actuators will cause car to lose all power....so replace. You have them, so no reason to wait. Did the work and hardest part is electrical connector setup. There is a removable bracket on top that needs to go first.

 

[12GS6]

Got the solenoids changed, evap, and throttle body connecter loose albeit one tiny portion of the twist lock tab snapped off. I think it'll hold back together fine...but the part that broke dropped down into the pipe. It's dark now. Tomorrow I'll jack it up and try and pop the fang out of the bumper to disconnect from the intercooler and get it out. Put the new tb on and go from there. Tb is dirty. But I guess I would expect more for it to be the culprit.

 

[12GS6]

So far so good. Changed the tb this morning. Took and held a paper towel over the end of my shop vac to make sure I got the broken piece of the twist connector out of the tube, and did (I gave up on the other end of the pipe at the intercooler...didnt want it broken at both ends) Put it back together and several start after stopping when hot it seems fine. More responsive. P0010 code was still present until after the first drive.

I noticed the ambient temp missing from my display when I started it back up (unhooked battery)...in browsing through the pids in torque I saw my oil psi was constant and low. I know when I had my powerstroke the preloaded pids weren't enough and you had to manually add/delete some. Is this preloaded torque pid just looking at the wring thing? I would think oil pressure that low would throw a cel.

 

[Jarbro16]

So far so good. Changed the tb this morning. Took and held a paper towel over the end of my shop vac to make sure I got the broken piece of the twist connector out of the tube, and did (I gave up on the other end of the pipe at the intercooler...didnt want it broken at both ends) Put it back together and several start after stopping when hot it seems fine. More responsive. P0010 code was still present until after the first drive.

I noticed the ambient temp missing from my display when I started it back up (unhooked battery)...in browsing through the pids in torque I saw my oil psi was constant and low. I know when I had my powerstroke the preloaded pids weren't enough and you had to manually add/delete some. Is this preloaded torque pid just looking at the wring thing? I would think oil pressure that low would throw a cel. View attachment 10952

Did

Got the solenoids changed, evap, and throttle body connecter loose albeit one tiny portion of the twist lock tab snapped off. I think it'll hold back together fine...but the part that broke dropped down into the pipe. It's dark now. Tomorrow I'll jack it up and try and pop the fang out of the bumper to disconnect from the intercooler and get it out. Put the new tb on and go from there. Tb is dirty. But I guess I would expect more for it to be the culprit.View attachment 10945

Did you use any tools when move the twist lock on the intercooler charge pipe? I can't get mine to budge

 

[spazztic]

Did

Did you use any tools when move the twist lock on the intercooler charge pipe? I can't get mine to budge

Bought my car used, half the ring is broken. Am I screwed?

Should I cut it out and put silicon piping?