Well just kick me in the nuts while down why dont you

[saleen90181]

Haven't been on it a while guys - sorry life has kicked me in the nuts once again

Left a senior position job in IT for a new job - was given guarantees -

After 8 weeks - terminated via cell phone message - "just not working out"

No meetings - no notice - no nothing - was told just 3 days before I was doing a GREAT job

So kicked my in the nuts

Then applied for unemployment - and they denied it - 1 week short of the requirements

SO kicked me in the nuts

Now - feeling like I need to reduce my stress - took the Buick out with my son and did some non aggressive but heavy foot driving

Got gas first - 94 oct at suncco

and wouldn't you know it - life kicked me in the nuts aqain

Car running great - doing a 0 - 60 run - then oh my - check engine light - stable control light - car misfireing - not even pings - like gun shots

limp her home - put dry gas in - clear codes -

No good -

Code P0299
Code P0300

Car idels like crap - barely able to run

Reset the computer via the BNR tuner to STOCK - gets even worse

how much to my nuts need to be kicked this month?

So anyone see this before = give me an idea where to start looking - the code information on the web really is total vague - could be turbo - could be nothing - could be total engine fail

5696 miles

Going to data tune it and send it to BNR - but looking to see if anyone seen this before

Thanks in advance

 

[Walt G]

Those two codes are very general in nature... low boost and random misfire. I would guess that the low boost is being caused by the misfire, not the other way around.

In order to 'fire' correctly, the engine needs fresh air, fuel and spark. In my experience, 'air' problems tend to most often lead to 'random' misfires. Fuel or spark issues tend to be cylinder specific, or throw a more specific fault (for example, low fuel pressure would cause random misfire, but would throw a reliable low fuel pressure fault that you don't have).

Plus you are hearing loud noises... that sure sounds mechanical in nature, and it's the 'mechanical' stuff that allows the engine to pump air in and exhaust out.

Of course, there is no way we could diagnose this from afar, but if I had to place a bet, I'd say it could be the bad rod bearing issue some LTG engines have experienced that results in con-rod failure???

I thought they had this well sorted by the 2016 model year, but maybe not.

You can Google "GM LTG connecting rod failure".

In the end, I'm sorry to hear that this is happening to you, but I'm curious to know what it turns out to be once the dealer digs in. Make sure you let us know.

 

[stoopid]

To return to the stock tune you might want/need to remove any add-ons (intake/exhaust), otherwise at the very least maybe flash back to the base tune (first tune BNR sent). Maybe BNR will have some ideas, but as Walt says it sounds like it could be mechanical. Obviously if you take it in for service you will need to remove all the aftermarket stuff anyway, so it might be worth starting there.

I believe the connector rod issue was a bad batch, limited to some of the 2013-2014 LTGs.

What sort of numbers did Jerry say you were pushing with the tune?

 

[saleen90181]

Walt

Thanks for the input - I checked and checked - and checked again - made sure there is no intake leaks

Going to pull the cone air filter off and spray carb cleaner to the MAF sensor - worth a shot - on my Super charged Saleen with the cold air the oil from the filter would some times get the wire dirty - don't think that is it - but hey cant hurt

At revs the motor makes NO horrible noises - as you would expect with a lower end issue - and the oil is not milk shake - and no shavings on the stick

The exhaust smells horrible - like diesel - but no smoke

with the Intake you can hear the air flow - its really loud - now its intermittent - from hearing the air flow to - no flow at all - and it cycles

If I rev it to 2k the stability light goes off - then the check engine light goes from solid on to flashing

At idle the lights and all electronic flickers - as it is stumbling horribly

I think it might have eat the turbo - My buddy with the 8 sec mustang was saying with that much boost and the "snease" when you get off of it with the INGEN intake that it could back the impeller bolt of the Dual Scrool - and that would mean INGEN might not be the way to go for other Regal Owners

Will know more tomorrow - sent the Datalog to BNR - going to pull the plugs and spay the MAF

Hell it could be bad gas - but it could be a nightmare

Only time will tell

Just looking to see if anyone else had see this on the 2012-2016 motor

 

[saleen90181]

Stoopid

A little less than you - asked for more with the new tune - but didnt put it on yet

Also - we had 5 inches of rain in 4 hours here in NJ - then I got gas - could mean something - or nothing

I put Stable and dry in the tank and let it sit running - then took it out - the dam thing almost killed me - put foot to the floor - NOTHING

Back off - picks up some - get to light - almost dies

 

[stoopid]

The fact it rained that much and the exhaust smells that much means it might be running rich (to compensate for the water in the tank/irregular fuel quality).

 

[saleen90181]

From Jerry - BNR

Just for your own info, if it is cracked pistons, you'll want to reference these threads-

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forum...-forum/613529-2-0t-bad-pistons-roll-call.html

http://buickforums.com/forums/threads/42004-Cracked-Piston-in-my-2014-GS-AWD

http://www.chevymalibuforum.com/for...21-cracked-pistons-2014-turbo-malibu-ltg.html

There's also a GM bulletin at the dealerships about it, I could locate the PI number if you wanted

We hope this response has sufficiently answered your questions. If not, please do not send another email. Instead, reply to this email or login to your account for a complete archive of all your support requests and responses.

http://badnewsracing.net/datalogs/view.php?auth=o1xqacaaah2ciaaacIJ8K8yf4eldsQ==

-Jerry Kinney Bad News Racing, Inc.


My responce -
Jerry

Anything on the data log that might show that

From my understanding the 2016 motor does not - or has not reported this issue

BTW - its not throwing smoke - the oil is clear - and at revs it makes no low end noise

BUT - there is a knock at 2K that I did not hear before

Bad Gas - or new motor/turbo

Please let me know what the datalog showed

Happy Joy!!!!!

 

[Benzadmiral]

I don't know too much about the car; sounds like the earlier posters handled that. But I've been in the IT field, been laid off/let go each year for 4 years, and then had to change careers back to being an office manager. True, I use my IT knowledge every day . . . but I don't get paid what I'm worth. (On the other hand, I've been here almost 15 years. Job security is nice.)

It sounds like you have plenty on the ball, enough that the company who just fired you hired you away from your previous employer. Translation: You've got skills the IT world wants. Keep sending out the resumes and calling in the favors. Something good will come along.

 

[saleen90181]

Benzadmiral

Thank you for your words of support my friend!!!!

 

[saleen90181]

NOW she is throwing white smoke under load - or over 3000 RPM while no load - rev

ALSO - now hearing a low knock in the motor

Oil still looks clear - but it seams like the more the motor runs the worse it gets

IE - rev to 3000 - in park - see smoke out back - motor sounds fine - then - no noise - no noise - KNOCK - no noise - KNOCK - Knock - ping - then tons of white smoke - then goes back to normal for a cycle - with little to no smoke - then the same pattern with tons of white smoke

BNR gave me an update to the tuner and I am going to get the data log in a few - but it looks like its not a happy camper at this point

Jerry said it might be bad gas - i hope - but it looks like we are getting far beyond that

will post when i have more info

didnt even get the first oil change yet 🙁

 

[saleen90181]

FYI - to BNR


Jerry
Did the Tuner update - cleared all the saved logs - and took it for a spin

It is now blowing white smoke under load - and can hear a KNOCK in the bottom end once in a while

I have attached the Data log - please review and let me know what you see

Was hopeing it was bad gas - but it looks like more then that now - esp with the white smoke​​​​

Unless the tanks got messed up at the gas station and they put diesel in the tank - and it really smells like that - not oil - but its white so i am afraid its a total engine fail or turbo fail.

Waiting on pins and needles for your reply

 

[stoopid]

How expensive is it to have the tank pumped?

 

[saleen90181]

Stoopid

Thats an Idea - could disconnect a line and let it drain out - but will wait to see what BNR says

I will get vid of it tomorrow - but you cant have smell a vision yet - too bad 🙂

Must say it dosent smell like gas - or the coolent I am used to - BUT the coolent in this car I have never had before and never smelt it burn - so it might smell like deisle when in the combustion chamber.

even if it is bad gas or deisle in the gas - at this point it probaly has done so much damage it has to go back any how

My thought - either the MAF has lost its mind - but that would be grey/black smoke and you would deff smell GAS

Or - the Shot gun blasts I heard where the pistons cracking - and now the more it runs - the worse it gets as compression gets worse - no smoke at first - and now more and more each time the car runs

Last though is - the turbo eat it self - so its not showing the PSI needed and its trowing codes

My bet - "I'll put five on it" - motor has eaten itself

Heavy White oily smoke in my past is major engine - light white misty is head gaskets - grey/black gritty heavy is gas/rich - thick black with flames is "get the hell out of the car its on fire!!"

and from your OLD post -
Description: GM: THE ENGINE MAY RUN ROUGH WITH THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON/LOW COMPRESSION ON CYLINDER MISFIRE. STORED DTC P0300. THIS MAY BE DUE TO A PISTON IN THE CYLINDER CRACKED BETWEEN THE PISTON COMPRESSION RINGS. *JS

http://buickforums.com/forums/threads/39842-Tuning-2-0T-reliability-issues

 

[BNRacing]

I would say piston #2 broke based on the data log. Still no KR in the logs, but the misfire count is WAY up on cylinder 2. I really wish GM would just fix the root problem and go to forged pistons with the number of these pistons we've seen break since 2013. I can't believe they put these in the 2016 Camaro as well....

 

[aerogel]

Good luck with the car and the job. I had a similar job situation. It was only 3 weeks for me and it was because of budget cuts. You would think that they knew if they had the money to hire LOL. Hopefully everything gets back to normal soon!

 

[saleen90181]

I would say piston #2 broke based on the data log. Still no KR in the logs, but the misfire count is WAY up on cylinder 2. I really wish GM would just fix the root problem and go to forged pistons with the number of these pistons we've seen break since 2013. I can't believe they put these in the 2016 Camaro as well....

Yep what i figured - if BNR needs any other info on it with the tuner let me know

BTW Guys - BNR is the best - as shown here responding so quickly and keeping us all updated - Jerry/BNR thank you

- - - Updated - - -

Good luck with the car and the job. I had a similar job situation. It was only 3 weeks for me and it was because of budget cuts. You would think that they knew if they had the money to hire LOL. Hopefully everything gets back to normal soon!

Thank you my friend

 

[Handy_Andy]

Code P0299
Code P0300

Car idels like crap - barely able to run

Reset the computer via the BNR tuner to STOCK - gets even worse

how much to my nuts need to be kicked this month?

So anyone see this before = give me an idea where to start looking - the code information on the web really is total vague - could be turbo - could be nothing - could be total engine fail

5696 miles

Not trying to be a smart a$$, but if you only have 5700 miles on your car why not just take it to the dealer and have them fix it under warranty? Especially if you've reset the ECU back to stock, and if you're really feeling crazy throw the stock air intake back on, and then drive it into the service department and hand them the keys.

Unless I'm missing something here, this would be a lot easier than trying to self diagnose - especially when signs are pointing to an internal mechanical failure that would be a warranty item.

Good luck!

 

[Skywagon]

Water in fuel? Get a glass jar and go get a little gas from the same pump?

 

[Benzadmiral]

Warranty. "Mr. Buick Dealer, I need a new engine and a loaner car. Thank you."

As for "THE CAR IS ON FIRE," I actually had that happen to me. My new to me '74 Volvo caught fire while I was driving it one Saturday night in 1985. My then-wife told me later that flames were licking out under the dash. She and I sprang out and jogged to a safe distance to watch it burn. Some people came out of a dance club nearby to watch as well, and one asked me, "That your car?" I said, grimly, "It was."

Turned out a fuel line had broken and spit gasoline all over the hot engine. Instant barbecued Swedish car. If there had been an Internet in those dark medieval days, I'd have researched the model and found those Volvos had a rep for breaking the fuel line. Turned me off imported cars for quite a while.

 

[BNRacing]

Yeah I would take it in and get it fixed under warranty. It's definitely a known problem. I can't wait to see what GM does with all these LTG Camaros they're selling. All the major companies in the ecotec world bought them to start making mods and you know almost every one of them sold is going to be modded and beat on. Good thing we just finished our forged pistons and rods...

https://www.facebook.com/BNRacingandtuning/posts/1245314055500186