1990 Buick LeSabre Rear Drum Brakes Tips - Especially the Rear Parking Brake

[bigv]

Just notched 7,500 trouble free miles on my 1990 lesabre, (new to me a few months ago) but want to do the rear drums. I normally do my most all of my brake work, but have never done drum brakes. My only work so far is 2 oil changes and installing a bluetooth stereo.

My problem is every youtube video I watch it is always something slightly different, so since I have a long weekend I want to give it a try.

What tips can anyone give about LeSabre rear drums? I now have 107,500 and think after 25 years the rear shoes should be replaced, especially since the rear parking brake is touchy. It can take a while to engage.

 

[MelsRegal]

why do think the car has the original brakes after 107,000 miles? Have you tried adjusting the parking brake cable?

 

[bigv]

why do think the car has the original brakes after 107,000 miles? Have you tried adjusting the parking brake cable?

Good point, I haven't taken the drum off yet, so the shoes may have been replaced. As for the parking brake cable, never really crossed my mind, I am assuming the shoes are bad. I have never done drum brakes so trying figure out where to start

 

[mrmajikbus45]

Personally, whenever I replaced shoes in the past, I would buy a set of shoes and a hardware kit. Loosen your rear lugnuts, and jack up the rear end on both sides putting it on a set of jack stands. Then I take the wheels off, and remove both drums. Only work on one side at a time until it is completed. Take a pic of the hardware put together with your phone just in case you need a reference. If you don't take a pic, just walk over to the other side and look if you get stumped, and that's why you only do one side until it is done.

 

[CarbonBlackCXS]

At 107K there's a good chance the rears have been done although they do last much longer then the fronts. How they work are basically the same as other GMs of the same vintage. As suggested take lots of pictures before you take them apart and while you do it and watch for the small bits that may fall from the backside of the drums. Just take your time. Have a good light source. A video camera might even be helpful to see what fell from where. If you've never done it before watch a few youtube videos to get an idea of what to watch out for and you'll do fine. Some drum brake specific tools will also make the job much easier. You could also smear a little brake grease on the backing plate where the shoes make contact. It might help with the parking brakes.

This one is kind of generic but helpful:

[video=youtube;MCpCkun2qxA]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCpCkun2qxA&spfreload=10[/video]

 

[bigv]

Personally, whenever I replaced shoes in the past, I would buy a set of shoes and a hardware kit. Loosen your rear lugnuts, and jack up the rear end on both sides putting it on a set of jack stands. Then I take the wheels off, and remove both drums. Only work on one side at a time until it is completed. Take a pic of the hardware put together with your phone just in case you need a reference. If you don't take a pic, just walk over to the other side and look if you get stumped, and that's why you only do one side until it is done.

Good advice, both drums being off at the same time will help

- - - Updated - - -

At 107K there's a good chance the rears have been done although they do last much longer then the fronts. How they work are basically the same as other GMs of the same vintage. As suggested take lots of pictures before you take them apart and while you do it and watch for the small bits that may fall from the backside of the drums. Just take your time. Have a good light source. A video camera might even be helpful to see what fell from where. If you've never done it before watch a few youtube videos to get an idea of what to watch out for and you'll do fine. Some drum brake specific tools will also make the job much easier. You could also smear a little brake grease on the backing plate where the shoes make contact. It might help with the parking brakes.

This one is kind of generic but helpful:

[video=youtube;MCpCkun2qxA]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCpCkun2qxA&spfreload=10[/video]

I like this video, he is pretty meticulous

 

[bigv]

As a side note I just changed my spark plugs, wires and 02 sensor ( I think I'm procrastinating on this brake job and trying to find other stuff to do ).

I do appreciate how simple the tune-up job was on this engine layout. So, now it's time to just pop the wheels and see what I have to work with on the drums.

 

[steppjohn]

As a side note I just changed my spark plugs, wires and 02 sensor ( I think I'm procrastinating on this brake job and trying to find other stuff to do ).

I do appreciate how simple the tune-up job was on this engine layout. So, now it's time to just pop the wheels and see what I have to work with on the drums.

Yes, Yes, You really need to at least pull the wheels and the drums and take a look at the brakes. You can run one with thin linings and schedule a brake job in the near future, but you really do not want to run the thing down to metal to metal. That is not good, dangerous if you already have it,, and more expensive to repair.
When I got used cars , looking at the brakes was one of the first things I did. You dont necessairly have to do anything about it immediately, but you need to at least know what the brake situation is.
If this is the first time doing drum brakes, you will have a learning curve. Probably have to get a few brake or springs tools.
Good luck.