2012 Regal Turbo Timing Chain Issues

old rancher

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At 35000 miles the bolts holding the timing chain tensioner failed. My car was six months past the warranty date and the dealer would not pay anything on the over $2,000.00 repair estimate. When I complained he gave me the number for GM Customer service. After two weeks of waiting for them to decide if they would help, I took the car to my local mechanic and had him do the engine repairs. I did some research online and there are many mechanics that are working to cars with this problem. GM needs to recall these vehicles and re-emburse the owners that have paid to have the problem fixed. This problem may effect the power brakes so it is also a safety issue.
 
At 35000 miles the bolts holding the timing chain tensioner failed. My car was six months past the warranty date and the dealer would not pay anything on the over $2,000.00 repair estimate. When I complained he gave me the number for GM Customer service. After two weeks of waiting for them to decide if they would help, I took the car to my local mechanic and had him do the engine repairs. I did some research online and there are many mechanics that are working to cars with this problem. GM needs to recall these vehicles and re-emburse the owners that have paid to have the problem fixed. This problem may effect the power brakes so it is also a safety issue.

Good Morning
I just got my timing chain replaced after fighting with the dealership for a year! Thank god I got the warranty. Total cost of the job was $1,717.93.

- - - Updated - - -

My only concern at this time is what damage was caused by driving around for a year with a chain that had so much slack in it.
 
I just laid out $3,500 for complete engine rebuild at 55k...the source of which was never determined. GM "underwrote" the rebuild, which was originally estimated at $5,600 from dealer. The TCT was just one of many many parts that were replaced.

PS - No one Ive dealt with thus far at the dealershuip was aware of the Regal's programmed oil interval at 10K!!
 
I'm glad this problem is costing General Motors some money. Sadly it is costing their once loyal customers even more. When my engine was running poorly the power brakes quit working. I was lucky to not have an accident. I have notified NHTSA to let them know of the possible safety issue.
 
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I just laid out $3,500 for complete engine rebuild at 55k...the source of which was never determined. GM "underwrote" the rebuild, which was originally estimated at $5,600 from dealer. The TCT was just one of many many parts that were replaced.

PS - No one Ive dealt with thus far at the dealershuip was aware of the Regal's programmed oil interval at 10K!!

My advice is to change the oil in your engines every 3k miles or when the oil computer reads about 60% to maximize the life of the timing chain components. Long oil changes usually leads to worn timing chain guides and stretch chains since old acidic oil fails to protect the components well. Just my advice.
 
I think I have a similar issue starting in my '12 gs. I tried posting a thread but for some reason it wont go through.. so my question to those who have dealt with this is- what were the first things they tried to fix the timing chain issue? I just purchased mine on 1/13 with 67k miles. Thank god it's "certified pre owned" so the dealer has already told me that any repairs necessary will be on them.. as of right now they have replaced the crank sensor pigtail (no help) and now they are pointing to the ECM?
 
The first indication I had was a rattling noise, mainly at idle. It didn't take long and I had a check engine light activate. Took it directly to the dealer and they diagnosed it and gave me the bad news. I had my own mechanic fix it for less than half what the dealer estimated. My mechanic also recommended the oil be changed every 3,000 miles.
 
I think I have a similar issue starting in my '12 gs. I tried posting a thread but for some reason it wont go through.. so my question to those who have dealt with this is- what were the first things they tried to fix the timing chain issue? I just purchased mine on 1/13 with 67k miles. Thank god it's "certified pre owned" so the dealer has already told me that any repairs necessary will be on them.. as of right now they have replaced the crank sensor pigtail (no help) and now they are pointing to the ECM?

For me, the first thing they did was replaced two camshaft actuators (Intake and Exhaust) & some valve(s)
 
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Thanks for all the input!! So the car has been at the shop for 8 days now, they have replaced the ecm, the crank shaft, the crank position sensor pigtail, and now they are telling me that the car had a timing chain put on it 300 miles before I took ownership! they dropped the oil pan and found several pieces of the timing chain guides in the oil pan!! Should I be concerned with the damage those may have caused internally? I'm beside myself here
 
Should I be concerned with the damage those may have caused internally? I'm beside myself here
Yes, you should be VERY concerned about the damage that loose metal fragments will cause damage to the internal engine. I would not accept anything less than a new engine!!
 
Does this impact LTG engines?

I think the LTG engines would fail the timing gear just as much as the LHU if you changed oil every 10,000 miles or more. But mid-way through 2012 GM figured out that 10,000+ mile oil change intervals won't work and they recalibrated the oil life monitor. So it's not that the LTG was redesigned in some significant way to prevent this, the oil life monitor is just realistic.

You don't hear about nearly as many (if any?) 2013 LHU timing system failures. It happens to the '11's and early '12's before the OLM was fixed.

All of what I say is based on circumstantial evidence only. I have no inside knowledge. But it is common knowledge that GM recalled higher volume engines (3.6 liter and 2.4 liter) at about this same time to reprogram the OLM. I don't know why the LHU was not included in recalls as it seems to have the same problem. The logical guess is that GM sorts their 'issues' in terms of what it is costing them, and the LHU, at such small volumes, just wasn't hurting them that much even though they fail at the same rate.
 
I'm a bit skeptical that only oil is causing these type of issues. Read that plastic is involved in the guides/tensioner and would vote that is more of an issue. Plastic with cars that have a lot of hot/cold cycles has a reduced life. Difference with 13 and on mentioned, curious of part differences or design changes? Oil and lubrication, especially with synthetic, isn't massive as it is used......having an issue seeing that as the cause. With that, doing 5k these days just in case.
 
"Should I be concerned with the damage those may have caused internally?"

Good Question, I am currently asking the dealership about this also. Waiting for a reply from the GM. It concerns me that my chain was like this for a year. It would be hard to believe that no internal damage was done to the engine. I have to take the car back to them next Monday.
 
Oil and lubrication, especially with synthetic, isn't massive as it is used......having an issue seeing that as the cause.

I don't think this is an oil breakdown situation. My guess, and it's only my guess, is that GM underestimated the effect of the extra soot in the oil in these DI engines. We have all seen our tailpipes... sooty like an old Diesel. That soot accumulates in the oil and is too fine to be filtered out by the oil filter but is like having a very fine sand in the oil. The weak 'link' in the engine seems to be the timing chain and guides... pun intended (chain... link... never mind).
 
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I don't think this is an oil breakdown situation. My guess, and it's only my guess, is that GM underestimated the effect of the extra soot in the oil in these DI engines. We have all seen our tailpipes... sooty like an old Diesel. That soot accumulates in the oil and is too fine to be filtered out by the oil filter but is like having a very fine sand in the oil. The weak 'link' in the engine seems to be the timing chain and guides... pun intended (chain... link... never mind).

Outside the valve gunk issue with DI (Mazda posted that keeping valves above 400 degrees keeps in check), have found nothing credible pointing to DI issues and nothing with oil contamination. While anything is possible, my bet is GM f'ed the design and a timing belt is just as good (or better as you expect the failure). Is what it is.
 
Like I said, everything I'm saying is purely conjecture. But there is strong evidence that the only cars with the 2.0 with big-time timing chain issues are the '11 and early '12 models, and nothing has changed except the OLM calibration. The same exact timing chain and guides are used all the way back to the LNF engine in the Cobalt SS.

I used to work at a major on-highway Diesel truck/engine manufacturer. As emission regulations tightened our engines made more engine-out soot (cleaned up by the aftertreatment of course). One side affect was that we had to cut oil change intervals, or add a 'soot centrifuge' to remove the soot from the oil. Oil change intervals are a big deal on semis since they are expensive and worse, are down time. I was in meetings about this where upper management would say 'just use synthetic oil' and the engine design and oil experts explained that it's all about the soot.

Then I look at all the soot on the tailpipe of my DI Regal and my wife's DI Impala... way more than I've ever seen on any gasoline engine car I've owned in the past.

I put two and two together and 'guessed' that GM underestimated this DI-produced soot in the oil and really screwed up the OLM as a result (and didn't design the LNF timing chain and guides to handle this soot since DI was not even a thought back then). I think their OLM model was all based on oil breakdown which they understood well.

Heck, since the timing gear didn't change from LNF to LHU, GM might not have even done a ton of retesting of the timing system, not realizing DI could affect it.

Again, just a slightly educated guess, but I really do think that if you own an '11 or early '12 Regal, don't go more than 5k on the oil.
 
I think there are several reasons for the part failures. Oil breakdown could be contributing factor. The design of the tensioners and too small of bolts holding them into the aluminium head is truly a poor design. The bolts either get lose and shear off or just shear off. That tells me they just weren't strong enough for the load they are getting.
 
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