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Battery removal 2019 TourX

chas

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Kona
Buick Ownership
2019 TourX, 1990 F-150
Bought used (dealer demo, 7K miles) 2019 TourX a month ago. Like it a lot.....until this morning. Went outside to go to work and everything dead - doors won't open, and once I used the manual key, inside and no lights, no nuttin' - checked battery with voltmeter = 4.7V.....Wanting to try charging battery but see a 'glob' of cables/fuses/connections attached to the positive terminal and can't for the life of me figure out how to remove this massive 'glob'. Tried the few obvious nuts, loosened it up little, but no success.

See photo: the central 10mm nut with the red wire attached doesn't loosen up the black shelf holding all the cable terminals and fuses; the 10mm nut in the left lower corner, adjacent to the apparent terminal clamp is some sort of weird tightener for the cable clamp - loosening it makes the entire black plastic conglomerate move but doesn't really disconnect it; could force it more, but don't want to break anything. ANY IDEAS APPRECIATED!

In the long run, of course, need to figure out why the battery died. And have a bigger conversation with myself: much as i like the TourX (about the nicest car I've ever owned), buying it made me violate my 50+ years' rule of never buying a GM product (racist, I know) and right now - with an essentially brand new car not running after one month - i'm beginning to think that was a rule i shoulda never busted.
 

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If it is just to charge and not remove I'd try to charge it through the jump starting posts. Owner's manual page 318.
jump start.PNG
 
Hopefully just a bad battery (several members here have already had to replace theirs). As for being a GM product, just keep reminding yourself (in a low voice) "Made by Opel, made by Opel...".
 
That is one crazy looking wiring setup on battery.
Looks more like house wiring design, with numerous subpanels... appears each fuse block in car has it's own fused connection to battery.
Dealer will take care of it under warranty. Was it a AC Delco battery?
 
Firstly, many thanks to Saab93driver - the old "read the manual" routine; thanks, my bad. [I did look in the manual, but only under "battery", not "Jump start".] Charged overnight, everything works fine all day today.

My post meant "not running after one month" (not "for") and, yes, I'd love to have had dealer pick it up, but dealer is 120 miles away; and while warranty would cover the initial tow, they don't cover the return tow, so I'd have to hitch, ride, walk, fly to other side of island to retrieve it once fixed, so wanted to at least try getting it going again. Checking in with dealer tomorrow - under my own power - just to be sure.

Uncertain re battery make - it's deftly hidden inside designer-quality black plastic (same folks who did the exterior cladding, ill bet) - no labels are visible.

Yes, keep humming the Opel mantra. And it went so nicely today that I luv it again!

But I do keep wondering how that battery is removed...
 
I'd recommend carrying one of these with you.

These things look like gimmicks, but they do work. Comes with case which stores nicely in the Velcro straps on the hatch.

If you didn't leave something on (or left something charging), you're likely to experience this again soon.

I don't want to create worry for you... But since you do live in paradise, maybe a little worry won't be too bad?? 🙂



Screenshot_20191025-065724.png
 
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The problem with the TourX not selling well is they may sit for long periods on the lot. When the lot rearranges the cars they will get started, moved, then shut off again, not giving the battery time to charge. The high amount of electronics on our cars mean they have a large drain on the battery when not used. I found that whole walking around the car without the key fob will cause some systems to wake up. Try it yourself if you have an Essence by walking around the tail. You will hear some faint clicking and the central display behind the steering wheel will wake. Pushing any door button will do the same. So, if it’s in the sales lot with people milling around the battery drain is substantial.

if you’re curious about the charging strategy, watch the battery voltage while driving...the system only puts full charging to the battery during deceleration. It’s a fuel saving strategy but may not fully charge your battery. During steady-state highway driving my display reads 12.6V regularly. During decel it will jump to 14.X

I know my car had to be jumped when I purchased it because the positive jump cap was removed and not put back. Driving home the start/stop system never activated because of the low state of charge. The first night I had my car home I hooked it to my NOCO charger and it took juice all night, never going into maintenance mode. It’s important to use the jump terminal and ground to the chassis because of the battery monitor, don’t hook directly to the terminals. Part of those electronics hooked to the battery monitors incoming and outgoing current and is monitored by the battery control module, whether the ignition is on or off.

The best thing you can do is to pick up a battery maintainer that has a setting for AGM batteries(like ours) and use it regularly. Every weekend when I’m not using my car much the charger gets put on.
 
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If you end up having to replace the battery, I would definitely travel the 120 miles to have the dealer pick up the bill. This isn't a $100 interstate battery.
 
I actually hope battery will get replaced under warranty before it is not covered. So not gonna start desulfating or charging battery till they replace for free. I have a AGM and a normal battery minder mounted on wall, that can charge multiple batteries at once... with wires to each vehicle.
20190630_185941.jpg
 
I actually hope battery will get replaced under warranty before it is not covered. So not gonna start desulfating or charging battery till they replace for free. I have a AGM and a normal battery minder mounted on wall, that can charge multiple batteries at once... with wires to each vehicle.
View attachment 19078
If you look closely you can see wires going to vehicles from ceiling.IMG_20180910_092331651_HDR.webp
 
Drove over the mountain to dealer. Checked "battery starting/charging system; battery outputting 12.8V & 900+CCA (rated for 760 CCA)> No repair recommendations at this time." Everything working fine. Why battery dead (4.7V) the other day, who knows? OK, i guess, 'til the next time. Can't imagine how I coulda "left something on overnight" - everything visible/audible seems to shut off once fob moves >6 ft away...

Yes, definitely adding a trickle charger & carrying a jump starter. Thanks to all for thoughts. Aloha!
 
It's not uncommon for a new car that sat on the showroom floor to have the battery go dead. It's been most likely recharged by the dealer a time or few.
People Play with all the buttons and leave insode lights on with showroom cars.
 
The problem with the TourX not selling well is they may sit for long periods on the lot. When the lot rearranges the cars they will get started, moved, then shut off again, not giving the battery time to charge. The high amount of electronics on our cars mean they have a large drain on the battery when not used. I found that whole walking around the car without the key fob will cause some systems to wake up. Try it yourself if you have an Essence by walking around the tail. You will hear some faint clicking and the central display behind the steering wheel will wake. Pushing any door button will do the same. So, if it’s in the sales lot with people milling around the battery drain is substantial.

if you’re curious about the charging strategy, watch the battery voltage while driving...the system only puts full charging to the battery during deceleration. It’s a fuel saving strategy but may not fully charge your battery. During steady-state highway driving my display reads 12.6V regularly. During decel it will jump to 14.X

I know my car had to be jumped when I purchased it because the positive jump cap was removed and not put back. Driving home the start/stop system never activated because of the low state of charge. The first night I had my car home I hooked it to my NOCO charger and it took juice all night, never going into maintenance mode. It’s important to use the jump terminal and ground to the chassis because of the battery monitor, don’t hook directly to the terminals. Part of those electronics hooked to the battery monitors incoming and outgoing current and is monitored by the battery control module, whether the ignition is on or off.

The best thing you can do is to pick up a battery maintainer that has a setting for AGM batteries(like ours) and use it regularly. Every weekend when I’m not using my car much the charger gets put on.
I have a NOCO charger and a large NOCO jump pack. They have done very well, much better than the deltran stuff which now just collects dust.
 
Two months ago I rePLaced the battery on my brother's 2014 Verano. There was also additional connections/fuses on the positive terminal. Just looking at it wasn't hard to figure out. It was 1 or 2 additional 10mm bolts and a plastic tray ( that housed the extra connections/fuses) that unhooked / unclipped from the sides of the battery box.
 
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I have a NOCO GB40 charger, agreed, they're real good, convenient, versatile.
 
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I have a NOCO GB40 charger, agreed, they're real good, convenient, versatile.

I"m glad to hear you like the NOCO GB40. I plan on using my Buick Reward points to get one of those.
 
I was considering one of the tourx but now I don't think so. Had a very expensive v8 Lucerne and when I had to replace the battery, it was under the back seat. Had two replacements and cost bunches. This type of thing completely turns me off of what otherwise may be a very good auto.
 
Since no one ever bothered to respond with the answer, you need to use a flathead screwdriver on the left side to pry up the plastic clip( area with ridges). Not hard but annoying. Hope this helps anyone searching.
 
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